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Old 11-09-2014, 07:48 PM   #1
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Frameless Window Reset / Reseal

I've read on this forum here and there about the dry fit windows, and resetting them with butyl. I think it was on a Jay flight. This is definitely not isolated to Jayco. A friend of mine did a positive pressure test on his Forester MH and low and behold, several of the dry fit windows leaked. He reset all of his with a double sided eternabond tape, or butyl, can't remember.

So my question is, since Jay Flight has the frameless dry fit windows if the fiberglass option is chosen (ours is), has anybody pulled the windows and reset them with butyl. I've never pulled a frameless, but it looks pretty much the same with the trim ring and flange. I think we have 9 windows, so a good few days and I could reset all of them. Stinks having to do so much preventative stuff on a brand new rig, but it pays off with the peace of mind.

I've got several more bullet proofing procedures to do which we do to all of our rigs, so maybe as they're done I'll post pictures. One is the trim from roof to sidewall with the vinyl insert running the length of the rig. Remove all screws, fill holes with ProFlex, and reinstall stainless screws, then seal up the vinyl insert trim to keep all of the water out of this area. Same thing on the trim on front and rear of the coach. Another is resetting / resealing clearance lights, sometimes drilling weep holes.
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Old 11-09-2014, 09:43 PM   #2
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Hi john,
We just brought home our brand new 2014 Jayflight 32BHDS, with the frameless windows. What issues are you hearing about?
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:24 AM   #3
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Haven't heard any on the Jay Flight yet, but just as the regular windows, the frameless are dry fit with a foam seal. This set up will leak over time, thus some have pulled and reset the windows, removing the foam and using butyl. I haven't experienced this yet as I don't pick ours up till Friday, but it is an industry wide issue. I just read on the Redwood forum of the same issue, and it was on a frameless window. Just trying to get a jumpstart to minimizing any future issues.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:23 AM   #4
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The windows on my trailer are the older framed type, and I've resealed them all. When I did this, I found that the windows were not centered in the cutout at all; this results in the frame of the window not having much sealing area where the frame abuts the side of the trailer. Here's a link if interested: window reseal thread
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Old 11-10-2014, 11:37 AM   #5
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RVhiker, that's exactly what I'm after. You're definitely not the only one to do it, and for the exact same reasons. Thanks for the link. Very good write up and pictures. I believe the frameless mount the same in regards to frame and clamp ring. Hate to have to it, but looks like I'll be pulling 9 windows. I wouldn't be as concerned if it weren't for the thin filon / laminated construction. You never know if there is or was a problem until you pull one.
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Old 11-10-2014, 12:38 PM   #6
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So... no reports of failed windows yet?

OK,

This is a good issue to talk about, and the writeup on the replacement is good. BUT - has anyone actually experienced a failure yet?

These new-fangled frameless windows are new, but how new?

I'll admit, when shopping for the bunkhouse I was a bit hesitant to jump on the flat sided model because of the relatively new technology of the frame less windows.

Being so new, though, I'm guessing no one has had one actually fail, yet.
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:12 PM   #7
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Only failure I could find on a frameless window was on a Redwood fifth wheel, but either way it is a clamp ring dry fit window, same as the older style. I guess the thing is, if either style dry fit window has a bad seal between the flange and outer skin, it's bad news. I tend to overkill preventative measures, but I've also had a run of and luck over the last 3 of our rigs. Those few things with those that I didn't check, we're what went wrong. Worst being manufacturer forgot to seal outer t-molding on slide, thus destroying he floor on a brand new fifth wheel.
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:46 PM   #8
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"Run of luck" HA! I like it. I too have had a recent "run of luck" with our last trailer, resulting in a complete floor rebuild from the nose back to the midpoint. So, afraid of camper components I am not.

I'll monitor these threads, but the only way to know of a failure is to yank windows. During the 2-year warranty period that is sorta like Russian roulette. I just bought a new rig for the simple reason... I'd like to run it for a while without major work, but I suppose... the quicker we all come to grips with the fact that all trailers are garbage, the better off we'll all be.

What I can't stand is the whiny folks who need and expect perfection. You need to be either Independently wealthy, or handy to be an RV person.
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Old 11-10-2014, 02:05 PM   #9
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Well said. Like the garbage comment. I have thanked the Rv industry many times for the extensive training ie received, since I do most all of my own work. The only thing I need warranty for, is delam, which would probably be my fault according to most manf. I bought the rig I did because it's a good bang for the buck. I knew I might have issues, the jayco is a simple rig, and I don't have to fuss cause I spent over $100k. As always, expect the worst, hope for the best.
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Old 11-10-2014, 02:06 PM   #10
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During the two year warranty period, I would expect Jayco to deny a claim to repair damage caused by a leaky window if it was more that 6 months or so into the warranty. You see, Jayco does not honor claims due to lack of maintenance. Jayco recommends that the owner caulk, as a maintenance item, around windows across the top and down the side past the curve (and no, I don't have that in writing). So if a window leaks past six months, it is the owner's responsibility to fix it. Any leak - anywhere on exterior of the trailer - due to lack of caulking or sealing - past six months or so - is likely to be on the owner. Caulking and sealing is a maintenance item.

Here's a thread about Jayco's response about leaks within the warranty period.
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