Getting the Trailer "off the ball"

deewaltguy · 06-15-2019, 06:32 AM

As a (relatively) new RV'er and tower, my biggest challenge has been getting the trailer to disconnect from the TV/hitch. This is especially true in my driveway as my truck would block the entire road if in line with the TT, so I angle it in to allow neighbors to pass.
I have seen threads discussing greasing the ball, or using a lever bar to separate the two.
Yesterday while doing some trailer jockeying, I tried a new approach that seemed to work well (for me).
As it seems the trailer is moving in an arc when I raise it off the ball, my theory was that the truck needed to go a bit forward or backward based on the last direction of travel of the combo.
Yesterday I just pulled the pin out of the hitch to allow the hitch to slide forward or backward in the receiver as it needed.
Of course the trailer was chocked before doing this.
It worked first time and easily. I will try it again this summer as we travel, but it seems like a winner (for me, anyway).

WeRJuliian · 06-15-2019, 10:05 AM

There are a set of standard instructions, given from the "spotter" to the driver, when manoeuvring.. things like "Left a bit".."No, the OTHER left!", and so on.
To that list, we have added "OK, now JIGGLE!"

This is usually done once the trailer is starting to lift, already trying to release... and it means, "Half an inch forwards, then backwards, a couple of times", and almost always releases a tight hitch. And, yes, it does need a delicate touch on the pedals.

Certainly, it's easier than having somebody jump up and down on the rear bumper of the TV (which I have seen), or diplomatically persuading one's better half to go and sit on the rear bumper of the trailer (which I have done!)

These are the things they never tell you in the handbook...

Bigpoppa56 · 06-15-2019, 04:54 PM

My first year was a nightmare getting the ball off constantly. Last year someone told me to put the tow vehicle in neutral. After making sure that the trailer is level I chock the trailer wheels. Then I chock my tow vehicle wheels and put the vehicle in neutral and it comes right off when I raise it.

deewaltguy · 06-15-2019, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigpoppa56

My first year was a nightmare getting the ball off constantly. Last year someone told me to put the tow vehicle in neutral. After making sure that the trailer is level I chock the trailer wheels. Then I chock my tow vehicle wheels and put the vehicle in neutral and it comes right off when I raise it.

I think we're doing something similar here. You're letting the whole truck move back or forth as needed, I'm letting the hitch slide in the receiver,

deewaltguy · 06-15-2019, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeRJuliian

There are a set of standard instructions, given from the "spotter" to the driver, when manoeuvring.. things like "Left a bit".."No, the OTHER left!", and so on.
To that list, we have added "OK, now JIGGLE!"

This is usually done once the trailer is starting to lift, already trying to release... and it means, "Half an inch forwards, then backwards, a couple of times", and almost always releases a tight hitch. And, yes, it does need a delicate touch on the pedals.

Certainly, it's easier than having somebody jump up and down on the rear bumper of the TV (which I have seen), or diplomatically persuading one's better half to go and sit on the rear bumper of the trailer (which I have done!)

These are the things they never tell you in the handbook...

I can see why this might be more efficient. I have another hobby of amateur astronomy. There is a process of aligning a reflector telescope which involves having the scope owner peering through the eyepiece and having a helper turn 3 large handscrews clockwise or counter clockwise until the scope is aligned.

Sounds like this:

OK, pick a screw and turn it slowly

Stop
Now pick another and turn it slowly
Too fast, turn it back
Now go to the first one and turn it in the opposite direction from before

Helper, I'm out of here

vwprostock · 06-16-2019, 02:07 PM

The neutral trick usually works for me but only if I let the truck settle and then set the park brake. If I just put it in park it seems the truck always rocks that 1/4" and binds me up.

Duke4857 · 06-16-2019, 05:45 PM

Repete on what others have said:

I chock the trailer tires, put my foot on the truck brakes, put the truck in neutral than let the trailer settle against the chocks. I put the truck E-brake on, put it in park. I have never had trouble getting the ball out of the coupler. I do make sure the trailer tires do not have a side load (torque) on them before I chock the trailer tires. This might mean gently rocking the trailer back and forth a few inches a couple times to let the side stress off the trailer tires.

rockaw · 06-17-2019, 08:51 AM

The trailer couples around the bottom of the ball, so if there is any tension on it, part of the ball is still hooked.
What most have said works, it allows the truck to move slightly allowing the ball to be free. it all depends on which way the ball is caught, the front or the latch part.
After setting the trailer chocks, I let then trailer settle on them, I either back (or forward) the truck about 1/2 inch, then drop the tongue jack a little watching for the trailer to start lifting off the ball rather than resting on the ball, if it doesn't release, I go put the truck in neutral and take my foot on and off the brake and she normally drops out a bit, then I raise it the rest of the way. Don't raise it a lot or your truck might drop out/pop out.

Few cautions, First Deewaltguy, watch taking the trailer off when you "arc" park it, I'm assuming you mean when turning as you back. Like Duke4857 said If you have tandem axles, this can torque them and when you release the hitch the front of the trailer and pop left of right as it comes off the hitch.
Next, never have the tow vehicle just in neutral and removing the hitch without someone in the cab, a good parking brake (seem some that don't hold) or some sort of wheel chocks on the tow vehicle, you might wind up chasing the TV or having it roll into the RV, even is the ground appears level.

Bassdogs · 06-18-2019, 09:41 AM

Do a thread search on this as there have been several in the past that discuss all kinds of procedures. In my 2 cents worth, I think the problem is worse when backing onto an uphill or downhill site. In this situation, the tv and the tt are in an arc not a straight plane. When you raise the tt tongue jack, you are increasing the angle. The arc causes the hitch to bind to the front or back of the ball. Jiggling the tv may or may not help. There is a device that is sold online for this problem. Looking at its description it is basically a stylized pry bar that you place under the hitch at the ball. It seemed to me that using a small prybar or crowbar in a similar fashion would work. It does. I use a 1/2 sized crowbar and place it on the towbar just ahead of the ball so it catches the hitch as close to the ball as possible. Use a careful lifting motion and vary it a couple times and it should pop off. Don't get aggressive in lifting the front jack before trying to disconnect. Set just enough lift that you can see the back of the tv raise an inch or so. The tv will drop when the hitch separates so you don't want it any higher than this.

the small prybar is now a permanent fixture in my TT setup equipment and gets used frequently.

Duke4857 · 06-18-2019, 05:40 PM

Sorry overlooked putting in, " truck back in park" part. I do that just left it out.

deewaltguy · 06-19-2019, 05:37 AM

FTR, I am not a proponent of leaving the TV in neutral. I have had trhe DW in drivers seat, TV in neutral and a light foot on the brake to allow the distance between the TT and TV expand or contract as necessary while both vehicles are firmly planted.
I was going to order the "U" shaped prybar but lost the link.
I will try my "Grenade method", (pull the pin) this summer and see how it works.

Whatsupchuck · 06-22-2019, 04:11 PM

Only yesterday I found that going to neutral before placing transmission in park allows the truck drive train to settle itself and remove pressure on the ball. This is of course with the trailer chocked. It's a step that is easy to forget.

Trying to change my Blue Ox after a trailer change gave me plenty of ball practice as the hitch head needed changing as well as rotating the shank in the receiver. I can also jiggle my bars after they are released which helps with this particular hitch.

Prove this to yourself by simply trying any gear, go to neutral and the truck will roll slightly when in neutral without brake application. Won't cure all problems, but, easy to do just to remove pressure on the hitch/ball.

robert9999 · 06-22-2019, 05:17 PM

If you can't put it in neutral than I just jump on the bumper while raising the power jack , easiest way for me & it takes seconds.

spark of insanity · 06-23-2019, 06:38 AM

Mine is getting those stupid arms I call it the metal bars from the hitch to the trailer and then putting the chains onto that one unit and lifting. If it is not done right it could take 2 people to get it into position. Why can't they make things simple. Lock and load and go I say. It took me and one other 10 minutes to get it on wow. Good luck the ball is not my problem. Its those stabilizer bars that get me.

Duke4857 · 06-23-2019, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spark of insanity

Mine is getting those stupid arms I call it the metal bars from the hitch to the trailer and then putting the chains onto that one unit and lifting. If it is not done right it could take 2 people to get it into position. Why can't they make things simple. Lock and load and go I say. It took me and one other 10 minutes to get it on wow. Good luck the ball is not my problem. Its those stabilizer bars that get me.

Raise the trailer jack up higher, I take almost all the weight off the TV (pickup) rear springs. Than the chains will loosen a little I do the same when hooking up or unhooking. I lightly kick the bar with my foot while raising the trailer jack until I the spring bar move a little. Than I get my pipe or bar and let the clamps down.

Scott_Trailer_Newbe · 06-23-2019, 03:41 PM

Leave one of your weight distribution bars attached to your hitch but disconnected from the trailer. As you raise the hitch to release it from the ball, aggressively push up and down on the weight distribution bar which causes the hitch to rock side to side. Do this several times and the ball will release without needing to go into neutral and all the other stuff.

blujay40 · 06-24-2019, 08:08 AM

When our Eagle TT was new, it was always a chore to get the coupler to "let go" of the ball. Used quite a bit of white lithium grease both inside the coupler and on the ball which helped some but most times, we literally had one of us bouncing on the truck bumper while others rocked the truck back and forth to try and get it to release. Also went thru a few fuses as well by raising the tongue jack to high in our attempts to get it to let go.

I asked a tech at our dealer once and he told me that it was a common issue and once the coupler "wore" a bit, it would work a lot better. For once, they seemed to know what they were talking about because fast forward a couple years and a few thousand miles of towing and we no longer have to jump or rock anything. The coupler now works just fine and hasn't given us any problems for a while now.

You may also like: