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Old 06-30-2022, 05:54 AM   #1
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Old Sealant

Good morning and thanks in advance for any advice you are able to offer.

We picked up a 2015 MRB20 a few months back and Iím finally getting to the dreaded task of resealing all of the seams and joints. Iíve scoured the forums and picked up the supplies I need to begin the process (RV proflex, lap sealent, mineral spirits etc).

It appears the previous owner (or maybe it came that way from the factory) used some type of lap sealant or something other than silicone to seal around the permitter of the trailer (see attached photos). It almost has the consistency of clay or plumbers putty. You can see the difference compared to the discolored silicone around the running light

Two questions

1) can anyone guess what it is?
2) how much of it do I need to remove before going over it with proflex? In other words, do I need to ďcarveĒ it out of the seams so I can get a good bead of proflex in there?

Thank you
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Old 06-30-2022, 06:06 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by WeekendRoadWarrior View Post
Good morning and thanks in advance for any advice you are able to offer.

We picked up a 2015 MRB20 a few months back and I’m finally getting to the dreaded task of resealing all of the seams and joints. I’ve scoured the forums and picked up the supplies I need to begin the process (RV proflex, lap sealent, mineral spirits etc).

It appears the previous owner (or maybe it came that way from the factory) used some type of lap sealant or something other than silicone to seal around the permitter of the trailer (see attached photos). It almost has the consistency of clay or plumbers putty. You can see the difference compared to the discolored silicone around the running light

Two questions

1) can anyone guess what it is?
2) how much of it do I need to remove before going over it with proflex? In other words, do I need to “carve” it out of the seams so I can get a good bead of proflex in there?

Thank you
Likely weathered Dicor or an equivalent. I use a heat gun and a painter's tool, a blow dryer will work as well, just use enough heat to soften the caulk a little and it'll come right up, doesn't take much. Be careful not to dig the blade into the paint, just apply enough pressure to lift the old caulk. No need to try and get into the seams, just remove what you can see.
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Old 06-30-2022, 07:30 AM   #3
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I'd definitely remove the old stuff. You don't know what the previous owner used and if it's the correct sealant. Piece of mind, if you will.
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Old 06-30-2022, 07:49 AM   #4
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The clay like stuff is butyl tape. It was applied at the factory. Generally speaking it has held up fairly well.
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Old 06-30-2022, 11:49 AM   #5
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The clay like stuff is butyl tape. It was applied at the factory. Generally speaking it has held up fairly well.
Exactly what I was thinking while looking at the pictures.
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Old 06-30-2022, 12:16 PM   #6
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The clay like stuff is butyl tape. It was applied at the factory. Generally speaking it has held up fairly well.
Agreed. If you look at other RVs youíll see the same. Itís doing itís job. It pushes out when compressed, filling the space around trim, bezels etc. Unless it has hardened and is breaking away, leaving entry points for water, I would leave it and caulk around it with clear Proflex.
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Old 06-30-2022, 01:35 PM   #7
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Get a plastic scraper, remove what's squeezed out then put the Proflex over it.
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Old 06-30-2022, 02:40 PM   #8
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Get a plastic scraper, remove what's squeezed out then put the Proflex over it.
I have done exactly that except instead of Proflex, I used non leveling Dicor. I tend to think that Dicor lasts longer than Proflex, but Proflex is easier to remove and replace.
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Old 06-30-2022, 02:50 PM   #9
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I purchased these and they work great for trimming the putty. Not too mention, they are great for lots of things where you would use a razor but don't want to damage the surface that you are working on. I used these on the roof for example to remove some excess dicor. ~CA
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Old 06-30-2022, 03:03 PM   #10
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It's butyl tape for sure, good eye jagiven. You don't caulk around it though ( you're just compounding a potential problem) you either remove it or you don't. It was intentionally laid down to be wider than the trim or coping, (you can see the seam where two strips meet). Being as old as it is you can probably run a blade or the edge of a painters tool along the trim and you may be able to pull it up as you lightly run the blade. If not try a little heat.
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Old 06-30-2022, 03:08 PM   #11
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I have done exactly that except instead of Proflex, I used non leveling Dicor. I tend to think that Dicor lasts longer than Proflex, but Proflex is easier to remove and replace.
X2, you just gotta have a plan, it skins over before quick got ready.
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Old 06-30-2022, 07:36 PM   #12
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Thank you all for the replies! Glad to know it's something that came from the factory and not a product a previous owner slapped on. Looks like I have a few more hours of prep and then I can finally get to the "fun" part.
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