Water damage repair

[Stonehawk]

Like it's never been done before right?

I am the proud owner of a 2006 Jayco Jay Feather Sport 186. There was previous water damage in the bathroom around the vent when we bought the trailer.

The previous owner stopped the leak, but did not fix the damage, as he never used the bathroom. So....

I have already worked on cleaning, priming and placing Eternabond and edge sealer on all of my exterior roof seams and penetrations. I will finish the roof off (TPO material) with a fresh coat of Dicor roofing liquid to give it that fresh and new car look

On the inside, due to a soft spot next to the tub, I am planning on removing the tub, toilet, medicine cabinet, light (read, everything), and taking out the four wall coverings and ceiling material.

So, with the backstory complete, I have a couple of questions as I ponder this work of art in the making...

• Flooring in this model and year is the foam sandwich I assume (luann, foam, luann)? If so, I assume that I can cut that out piece by piece, and replace with with a higher grade and thickness of OSB or plywood?
• In doing that, should I coat the flooring with waterproofing or not, before I install it?
• How difficult is it to remove the tub altogether and just place a shower pan in its place?
• Can I rebuild the walls and ceiling using Masonite (or something similar)?
• Going to top the floor with waterproof vinyl planks that are also glued down. Should the flooring run somewhat under the shower pan, or just run up against the apron and be sealed there?

So many questions, so little time. Thank you in advance for any questions you may be able to help me with

Jerry

[bankr63]

I'm in the middle of a similar repair, but near the entrance door, not the bathroom.

I am only replacing the top layer of plywood with as close to similar thickness as I can find. This is primarily to avoid issues with uneven subfloor levels when installing the finish flooring. Note that I do plan to use a premium waterproof vinyl with a fairly thick substrate; this in itself should go a long way to providing more rigidity to the floor. However it will add about 120 extra pounds to the TT weight.

I do not plan to replace to bottom of the sandwich layers. It is damaged, but now dried, however my membrane is fully intact and very strong. I may add some bracing below the membrane if appropriate. The reasoning here is that it is a very difficult repair to pull off. There are are really two frames to deal with; the metal trailer frame and the aluminum sandwich frame. Getting plywood between the two frames would be very difficult, and there is almost no access from beneath unless I drop my black and grey tanks.

As to the shower pan, take a very close look at your setup. Often the plumbing is above floor level and there may also be heat vents or other services below the existing RV pan. It can be hard to install a residential pan in such a situation. You may at least have to build some sort of platform to support the residential pan above the works.

ETA: I've had lots of time to think about this. I did all the demo in the fall and stored the unit for winter with several large pails of damp rid inside. I've been out several times to retest, and the walls and remaining flooring now register bone dry with the moisture meter. I was able to plan and collect materials all winter for the rebuild once it warms up here; hopefully sometime later in April. Temps are just starting to get above freezing here in the daytime now, and the trailer is still surrounded by a couple of feet of snow; had to snowshoe in to it in February.

[Johnny Lightning]

Something I have done in the past to boats and an apartment building I own with rotted/separated plywood is to use polyester (fiberglass) resin thinned with acetone to infiltrate what in this case would be luan. It firms it up fairly nicely and you can then cut and sand it just like plywood. What don't know is how the foam will react to it. You can likely also do the same with epoxy although I'm not sure how to thin epoxy. There is a boating product called "Gitrot" that is thinned epoxy that works well but it's on the expensive side. That is actually where I got the idea for the thinned polyester resin. You might want to contact a fiberglass merchant on the Internet and see what they can offer. Most of them sell both epoxy and polyester resin. Just a thought.