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Old 07-30-2015, 01:10 PM   #11
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Had the same issue on my brand new 195RB the nylon plug was cross threaded into the steel/brass threads, right from the factory! bought a new BRASS plug,with some teflon tape on it,and it went in just fine.NO LEAKS.
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Old 07-30-2015, 01:17 PM   #12
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I have used the same nylon plug for 2 years now. I don't drain the WH ever time we camp but I do wrap it a few times with teflon tape...the good thick kind, not the cheap tape WalMart carries. I put a wobble extension right off the socket to get under the gas tube that covers the plug.
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:20 PM   #13
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I'm also using the original plug that came with mine. Almost two years old now, and no leaks. The head of the plug is a little bit chewed up from where I was trying to use a channel-lok to get it off, but now I use a socket with an extension. It reaches up under the heater tube just fine, and I've never had to use a wobble. I just tighten it by hand to get the threads started and then put the wrench on and send it home.

I have never used tape, and I also keep two extras in the trailer if the original ever goes bad.

I can't imagine the nylon plug could harm the threads, so I would be wondering how the threads got fouled in the first place.
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
If the threads are fouled, you will never get a good seal.


Carefully using the correct tap (pipe taps are tapered) to straighten and dig deeper into the drain collar, probably will fix the problem for the remaining life of your water heater.


However, if it is still under warrantee, get the dealer to replace the tank. There is no good reason to live with this.
I agree. If you still have warranty, the heater was defective from the factory and should be replaced. Mine had plenty of pipe thread sealant (we used to call pipe dope). You might try that. I use teflon tape on mine when I replace it and it has never leaked.

Also, the threads on the nylon plugs are tapered a bit, so the further you tighten, the better the seal. That may help you get through your trip, along with some good sealant.
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
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...snip...

Also, the threads on the nylon plugs are tapered a bit, so the further you tighten, the better the seal. ...
Reminder: the tapered hole and tapered plug system only work when they are lined up. Any cross threading and no matter how much you tighten, it will never seal properly.

A new plug (with its threads factory fresh) will definitly help in the short term.
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Old 07-31-2015, 06:17 PM   #16
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Thank you all. A new plug did go in with some very careful starting, it tried to crossthread a few times but I was able to stop it in time and get a good seal.

I got some pictures and contacted my dealer (not the easiest thing to photograph BTW), hoping they will just do a replacement. The outside of the threads are pretty bare and the hole itself almost looks tapered, definitely think it was a factory mess-up.
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:10 PM   #17
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As for the tools to use to remove/install the plug I use a 15/16" socket with extension Works quite well.
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Old 07-31-2015, 09:41 PM   #18
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As a person who has worked as a plumber for 17 years do not use the T&P valve on the water heater to vent to drain. These are meant as disposable one time use items, hence why they are so cheap and plumbers never remove the old T&P and place into a new water heater. I learned the hard way as a new young apprentice plumber popping the T&P to bleed pressure or vent.

Also some tips when it comes to Teflon tape on plastic male fittings. I recommend not to, and use pipe dope instead of tape. I rarely use tape on plastic male fittings for a couple reasons. First if you are not mindful of placement and amount of tape used you can easily cross thread a male fitting. Second if you use too much you can also split the female fitting you are threading into depending on the material, plastic and aluminum split relatively easily compared to steel, copper or steel.

Just some thoughts from a person who has made a living doing it.
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Old 07-31-2015, 09:53 PM   #19
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Almost forgot, if you chase the threads in the heater you will most likely need a 3/4 IPS tap. IPS is iron pipe size.
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:05 AM   #20
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Here's what we did after getting tired of fooling with the plugs. Nylon nipple and sink hose with pex valve on the end. Has worked well. I like this better as I can pull the hose out and drain it into a bucket if the rig is backed into the shop.
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