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Old 02-12-2016, 12:04 PM   #11
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I've always been curious about why you needed to add antifreeze at all. Couldn't you just open the low point drains, and then have all the faucets open? If anything froze, it wouldn't be contained, and would just spread out in the pipe....
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:07 PM   #12
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I too have used YouTube to learn and discovered that some do simply blow out the lines and leave them open without the antifreeze. I blew out my lines but then also pumped with antifreeze. Never been brave enough to just leave the drains and faucets open after blowing out.
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:14 PM   #13
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I've always been curious about why you needed to add antifreeze at all. Couldn't you just open the low point drains, and then have all the faucets open? If anything froze, it wouldn't be contained, and would just spread out in the pipe....
I've been curious about this as well. This is one of my steps before I blow out the lines. Never been brave enough to just let gravity do the job, I always blow them out with air.

I assume that since quite a bit of water comes out when I apply air pressure, there is enough hanging around in the pipes to do damage.
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:25 PM   #14
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Some Valves / Faucets tend to trap some water inside of them. I found this out many years ago when in the spring I hooked up to city water and had a faucet spraying water all over because it had some trapped water in it and froze and cracked the body of the faucet.

IMHO you can never blow out 100% of the water in your valves and faucets. Ever since I have always used antifreeze and have never had a problem.
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Old 02-12-2016, 03:07 PM   #15
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Okay, you can chalk this one up to: "When all else fails, read the instructions."

I read the instructions in the Jayco manual for 2015, Model 23 RB and I are now confused.

Last autumn, wanting to protect my new trailer for the winter, I had the RV professionally winterized by a trustworthy RV service center. To overcome onset cabin fever being experienced by DW and the dog, it will soon be time to put the RV back on the road (mid-March).

Obviously, it will soon be necessary to flush the water lines. In my rookie opinion, that does not require professional attention and I can simply flush the lines myself by hooking up a garden hose at two points: 100-gal. tank fill inlet and the regular supply line inlet and letting the antifreeze mixed water gravity flow or be pumped out of the fresh water tank. After this, I should be good to go?

So what am I missing or overlooking? Any advice would be most helpful.

Gharwali

There shouldn't be any antifreeze in your fresh water tank; this is just emptied for the season. That is the one area that will not really be harmed by a bit of expansion if there is a little residual water .

Do check to make sure that dealer didn't leave your fresh tank shut off though; there is often a valve to prevent the antifreeze from backflowing into the fresh tank.

You should add some water to the fresh tank and run the pump to clear antifreeze from the pump, the city water inlet will not clear the pump.

One comment on winterizing, if you do only blow out your lines, still be sure to add some AF to the drain traps and toilet. These are not cleared with the pressure water lines. I always use AF here in Canada, because we get VERY cold and a lot of freeze/thaw, and flash freezing is always a possibility (we sometimes drop 20 degrees in a couple of hours). If I lived in a warmer area with only mild frosts, I might consider just blowing out the lines. But really, at a few dollars a gallon, the AF is a pretty cheap insurance.
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Old 02-12-2016, 08:00 PM   #16
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?..snip

You should add some water to the fresh tank and run the pump to clear antifreeze from the pump, the city water inlet will not clear the pump.

One comment on winterizing, if you do only blow out your lines, still be sure to add some AF to the drain traps and toilet. These are not cleared with the pressure water lines. I always use AF here in Canada, because we get VERY cold and a lot of freeze/thaw, and flash freezing is always a possibility (we sometimes drop 20 degrees in a couple of hours). If I lived in a warmer area with only mild frosts, I might consider just blowing out the lines. But really, at a few dollars a gallon, the AF is a pretty cheap insurance.
Agreed. I always put AF in all the traps and let it overflow into the gray tank to keep that knife valve wet. Same with the black tank, always leave some in bottom of those tanks. Here in S TX we might get one or two freezes a year, and even then it rarely stays below freezing during the day, so I'm confident in blowing out the lines and applying AF to the traps and waste tanks.
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Old 02-13-2016, 08:55 AM   #17
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Don't forget to drain the water heater (after by-passing it) of all water when winterizing! A bursted water heater is a real pain in the rear!
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Old 02-13-2016, 09:33 AM   #18
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Winterizing

Important to open the toilet flush value if you blow out your lines. If not the water intake value will retain water. I had one freeze and crack and I didn't have a lot of fun replacing it.
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Old 02-13-2016, 10:34 AM   #19
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how do you winterize the water city line inlet ?
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Old 02-13-2016, 11:02 AM   #20
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how do you winterize the water city line inlet ?
There should be a backflow valve right where you hook up the hose. This is what keeps the lines pressurized when the pump is running (otherwise water would pump back out through this fitting). Should see what looks like a little button, sometimes under the screen, so you may need to pop off a couple of pieces.

If you are just blowing out, don't worry as that is where you probably hooked up the air; there is no water left. If you are using AF, push the button with the system AF filled and under pressure (and stand to the side). Hold until some AF spurts out of the fitting.
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