Buying a 2006 Jayco 1006

[Walt B.]

Hi all....new member here. I'm looking at buying a 2006 Jayco 1006 for $3k. Anything I should look at in particular before I buy it? Any problems with the 2006 1006 in general? Thanks for your help.

[DocBrown]

Look for rotting floors, especially in the corners. Make sure the lift system works smoothly and all 4 corners go up evenly. If there is rot in the corners and any of the corners don't go up evenly, then the mounts for the pulleys have pulled through the floor. It's fixable but it's a lot of work. And certainly not on a $3k trailer.

Look at the wood panels on all four sides of the roof skirt. Make sure there is no rot there either.

Test all appliances and make sure everything works.

Look for mold or evidence of mold stains on the canvas. If you smell any mold, walk away.

If it has the original tires, or they are 6 yo or more, they will need to be replaced no matter what they look like.

When its folded up check the door to see if there is a V shaped gap between the door edge and the trailer wall. That would not be a deal breaker for me but it's an indication that the frame is flexing. The question is how much?

If everything is solid that's a reasonable price to pay.

[Ohiofinlander]

I once helped a friend completely change out the lift system. As Doc said, it's alot of work. Welcome aboard!

[RogerR]

I agree with Ohiofinlander that an experienced RVer you know and trust would be a great help. After that I would also suggest a strong flashllight and old clothes as I would check the bottom for rot, obvious road damage. Also, look at the LP tank, it may be out of date and the LP lines should not be old and cracked.

Light the stove and run the furnace and AC if it has them. Most likely the battery will be dead and need replacement. Don't forget to pull out the awning and check for mold, rips, bent poles, etc.

$3000 seems a bit high per NADA.

[mboy]

water damage, tires. figure you need new tires and batteries.

[bankr63]

Originally Posted by DocBrown

When its folded up check the door to see if there is a V shaped gap between the door edge and the trailer wall. That would not be a deal breaker for me but it's an indication that the frame is flexing. The question is how much?

Careful with this one or you may never buy a pup at all. There is a flare engineered into the door frame on most pups, and certainly on Jayco. This is to prevent door binding and make installing the main door easier. Now if the gap has opened up more than reasonable (say to the point where you have daylight past the half-door), you might have an issue. expect the door opening to be about a half-inch wider (guessing, never thought to measure it) at the top than at the bottom.

I would also pay close attention to the axle camber. Crouch down behind the camper and the tires should toe in at the bottom when the trailer is unloaded (axle has a slight bend upwards in the middle). When fully loaded this should compress down to almost flat. If the wheels toe out, or the axle crowns down, then the axle has been bent from stress or overloading. This is also evidenced by uneven tire wear.

And as everyone else has said, beware of water infiltration, the enemy of all RV's. Check for signs of damage and proceed accordingly. The good thing about a pup is that almost everything is visible to the naked eye, but you have to open cabinet doors and check inside bins under the seating. Lift up the curtains and skirting as well.

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by bankr63

Now if the gap has opened up more than reasonable (say to the point where you have daylight past the half-door), you might have an issue. expect the door opening to be about a half-inch wider (guessing, never thought to measure it) at the top than at the bottom.

Well that's pretty much what I meant. A trailer that old could very well have a stressed and cracking frame. A half inch wide gap at the top is already getting too big. Been there.