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Old 07-14-2013, 08:34 PM   #1
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I'm camping right now need help

My 2005 Jayco 1206 has a Norcold 3 way fridge. Before camping I tested the fridge on AC and DC and it work. Did not test on gas until I arrived here camping yesterday. Turned knob to gas and gas valve to high cool. Pressed knob heard gas and hit igniter. I could see a healthy spark but no ignition. I tried a match and it lit and stayed lit. I kept gas knob on high cool. Several hours later checked it and still had flame and heat was coming from heat exchanger. This afternoon opened fridge and it is warm, fins are warm. Gas is still on and burning and heat is being emitted for sure. What could be the issue?
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:38 PM   #2
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My camper is level.
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:50 PM   #3
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When you say the fridge is warm when opened, how warm? is it like the fridge isn't cooling at all or just not enough? Is it empty or full?

How hot is the ambient temp where you are camping? Hot days have significant effect on RV fridge performance.

My fridge is a two-way, but when I run gas to cool it at home it takes 24 hrs to cold. If your fridge is cooling some, just not cool enough, and full get the contents out and in a cooler. Give the fridge a chance to catch up then try to only add pre-chilled items.

Best of luck.
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clubhouse View Post
When you say the fridge is warm when opened, how warm? is it like the fridge isn't cooling at all or just not enough? Is it empty or full?

How hot is the ambient temp where you are camping? Hot days have significant effect on RV fridge performance.

My fridge is a two-way, but when I run gas to cool it at home it takes 24 hrs to cold. If your fridge is cooling some, just not cool enough, and full get the contents out and in a cooler. Give the fridge a chance to catch up then try to only add pre-chilled items.

Best of luck.
Fridge has food in it . Just emptied it. It has been running more than 24 hours and it (I had it on DC) on the way up and switched it to gas about 28 hours or go. Going to run it on DC tonight with it empty to see if it cools at all. When plugged in to AC at my house it got REAL cold
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:08 PM   #5
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I am no expert, but I understand that sometimes the ammonia inside can for crystals and restrict the exchange of the hot/cold flow in the system. I have read (please don't quote me) TT occasionally you can turn the fridge upside down and get some circulation from the crystals.

I'd look here for more info. Seems to be one of the best locations for info like this. http://www.popupexplorer.com/forum/

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Old 07-15-2013, 05:39 AM   #6
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I just commented on your LP detector post and then read this one. If you ran your refrigerator on DC I assume you are boondocking and don't have 110 available. Running the refrigerator on DC will drain the battery very quickly. In this case low voltage probably set off the LP detector.

As far as the refrigerator not cooling....was it cool when you left the house? Did the unit turned on and sat stationary and unlevel for any length (travel time does not count) of time before you got to your campsite? If the "chimney" is getting HOT (not warm) and not cooling at all the unit may have a leak somewhere.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:11 AM   #7
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I would recharge the battery if you can. Nose your truck up to the battery and use your truck jumper cable and do a couple or three hours of direct charge with your truck running of course... Your could run your truck just for a couple of hours but its best to get the battery back up to its 90% charge state if you can.

Sounds like the battery may have gotten discharged and this is not providing the fridge 12VDC for the sensor board.

Just my thoughts for quick fix...

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Old 07-19-2013, 07:55 PM   #8
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The small 1.7cuft 3-way Norcold like is used in the 1206 does not have an electronic control board so no DC power is required.
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