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07-03-2017, 11:44 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Mesquite
Posts: 40
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What is this and why does it keep breaking
I have a 2015 X23B. Under the rear bumper is a bracket (looks like a V), which appears only to be attached to the frame. Twice, once while moving and once while parked, the bolt on the bracket broke. I've replaced twice. It's parked right now and the bolt has broken again. Has anyone else had this problem?
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07-03-2017, 12:01 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: ancaster
Posts: 125
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Did you bottom out? These are protection for the trailer so they hit the ground instead of the body of the trailer
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07-03-2017, 12:12 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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Ever see all the V shaped gouges in a steep driveway, Thats that V. Beats ripping the rear bumper off.
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07-03-2017, 12:16 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Mesquite
Posts: 40
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Honestly, I do not recall bottoming out, but it is certainly possible. I'll replace bolt and be very, very careful. Thanks so much.
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07-03-2017, 12:25 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Abingdon
Posts: 6,177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1
Ever see all the V shaped gouges in a steep driveway, Thats that V. Beats ripping the rear bumper off.
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x2
My BIL's driveway has the oh so familiar V groove!
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07-03-2017, 01:14 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 110
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What is this and why does it keep breaking
I had this problem with a travel trailer I used to own. I installed a couple casters to prevent that from happening.
http://www.rvpartscountry.com/Frame-...id-Wheels.html
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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07-03-2017, 03:48 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Blaine
Posts: 152
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Stop putting grade 2 bolts on and you will stop breaking them. Go with grade 8 stainless steel
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07-04-2017, 06:32 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Saskatoon Sask Canada
Posts: 10,726
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Whenever possible go up (or down) a driveway at an angle. It may help
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2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 900watts of solar, Lithium batteries (400amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
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07-04-2017, 07:09 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Harrisburg
Posts: 274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabalin
Stop putting grade 2 bolts on and you will stop breaking them. Go with grade 8 stainless steel
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Stainless grade 8 bolts may be hard to find and could be expensive,
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07-04-2017, 07:40 AM
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#10
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Lost in the Woods
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabalin
Stop putting grade 2 bolts on and you will stop breaking them. Go with grade 8 stainless steel
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There's grade 8 bolts, and there's stainless bolts. There's no grade 8 stainless bolts.
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07-04-2017, 09:48 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Dale Hollow Lake Tn/Ky
Posts: 2,525
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As it has been said, these are skid plates that are in place to protect the rear trailer frame from damage. They take the hit so to speak when pulling out of a site or steep driveway and dragging the rear of the RV on the pavement. If you are breaking them off, you must be hitting them hard or frequently to cause them to fail over and over.
I broke one of them when maneuvering my TT out of a steep difficult site. The left skid plate snapped as it skidded forward and to the side as the TT came back onto the pavement. It was originally welded to the frame but my local welder bolted it back in place because of the gas line that was positioned along the frame member. It is normal to see some wear on the bottom of the skid plate.
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10-18-2017, 03:25 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Blaine
Posts: 152
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There are grade 8 stainless bolts because I have purchased them. Just have to find a source in your area.
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10-18-2017, 05:44 PM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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Lowes and Tractor Supply carry them around here also most well stocked hardware stores.
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Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
Gator roll-up bed cover
B&W Turnover ball, Companion Std hitch
Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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10-24-2017, 07:27 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: midwest
Posts: 1,211
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you can put in grade 8 or some super hard bolt and they won't break, but they are grade 2 for a reason and that reason is so they don't pull the bumper off the RV.. or bend the living daylights out of the holes when you do hit something... they are softer than the metal they are holding together .. so they fail without damaging the integrity of the metal they are connected to..
Change the grade at your own and your TT risk...
reminds me of the guy who changed out his shear pin on his tractor because it kept breaking.. he fixed it alright... and then instead of replacing a $5 part he got to spend $800 for a new set of gears...
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12-27-2017, 02:32 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Blaine
Posts: 152
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Curver I agree with your thought, the grade 8 is just another option.
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01-01-2018, 03:26 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 22
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Sacraficial bolt
Yes, bolt is meant to break to prevent more expensive damage. Sort of like the shear pin on a snowblower.
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03-31-2018, 05:50 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,817
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Bolts that are made of 17-4 Stainless alloy can have strengths that slightly exceed grade 8 carbon steel equivalents.
Carbon Steel used in Grade 8 Fasteners:
91 ksi in single shear
130 ksi tensile yield
150 ksi tensile ultimate
17-4 Stainless Bar heat treated to H1025 (this would be the likely condition for a bolt)
95 ksi single shear
145 ksi tensile yield
155 ksi tensile ultimate
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