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Old 05-22-2016, 10:09 PM   #1
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Question 2016 RAM Concern

Hi all,

This has probably been covered before but that doesn't stop me from stressing about it. I've bought a new 2016 RAM 2500 diesel last fall with the idea of putting a B&W Companion hitch in and the plan was to ultimately get a 2016 Eagle 321RSTS. I've done all the calculations and I was feeling pretty good about everything until I pulled the truck up next to the 321 this weekend.

The concern is that the truck sits high, from the ground to the bed rails is about 60 inches and I'm not seeing how this is all going to work given that I need 6 inches from rail to RV. I know that the camper can be raised 2 inches by using a different hole on the camper axis but I don't think that will be enough. I've read about rotating the axis but wont that put me over max height of the entire rig?

I guess what I'm looking for here any feedback from those who have a similar setup, is this something you can get level or do you just leave the nose up and call it a day? I REALLY don't want to drive with the nose up. Thoughts? Thank you
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Old 05-23-2016, 03:48 AM   #2
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I have a Ram 2500 Outdoorsman with the 6.7L cummins. I also have a 2014 Jayco Eagle 33.5RETS. I have a slider hitch, which I have never had to slide and have no problems with the ride or hook up. The dealer set my rig up and it may be an inch or two nose high, but hardly noticeable. Certainly not a problem pulling as it hauls like a dream.
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Old 05-23-2016, 05:52 AM   #3
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I am not sure how much Pin Weight your FW has, but I would assume there will be at least a few inches of squatting with the back end of your truck. That should help a little with the height issue. My 5er squats my truck about 6", which I am quite impressed with. I really thought it would be much more than that.
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:00 AM   #4
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You might be a little nose high, which if within an inch or so not a huge deal. True your truck will squat and being a 2500 probably 3-4". My unit pushes my rear down about 1.5 inches and my pin is pushing 3K.

Before you get upset hook it up and see where you come in then adjust as needed to get close. Don't cut the clearances down too much as you might have an issue along your travels of the trailer being hit by the bed.
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:33 AM   #5
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Without trying it, you really don't know 100% what it will be exactly. I have a stock 2010 Ram 2500 4x4 and a 2014 27.5bhs HT with a B&W companion slider. I ended up installing a 5" subframe to get it level (as well as putting on 16" wheels). I've seen pictures of peoples trailers claiming 1-2" and they look very similar to what mine was.......
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Old 05-23-2016, 01:24 PM   #6
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I agree with most of the folks here. Load up your rig to the truck, then take measurements. There are other areas you can still adjust, like the pin box, the hitch height and flip the axle springs. Once you have done all the adjustments you can, then see how high your nose really is.
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Old 05-23-2016, 03:15 PM   #7
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This brings up a another point - I don't have a dodge, but a Ford F250 4x4.. I was going to get airbags when I had the hitch installed..

If some are counting on using the truck drop from the weight to offset the nose riding high on Jayco's HT trailers (with larger trucks), should I wait on getting the bags?
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Old 05-23-2016, 04:24 PM   #8
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If your truck is classified as heavy duty, then I'd suggest you wait and see how the trailer sits on it. We too, thought we might needed air bags, but after mounting the rig, our rear only dropped about 1.5 inch. And, we were nose high.

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This brings up a another point - I don't have a dodge, but a Ford F250 4x4.. I was going to get airbags when I had the hitch installed..

If some are counting on using the truck drop from the weight to offset the nose riding high on Jayco's HT trailers (with larger trucks), should I wait on getting the bags?
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Old 05-23-2016, 05:44 PM   #9
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Pretty easy to see if it will work.
Level the 5th wheel, measure up from the ground to the underside of the front over hang.
You already know your bed height.
Subtract about 2" from the bed height for sag. 60"-2"=58"
So if the front overhang is 64" you'll be level with 6" of clearance.
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Pretty easy to see if it will work.
Level the 5th wheel, measure up from the ground to the underside of the front over hang.
You already know your bed height.
Subtract about 2" from the bed height for sag. 60"-2"=58"
So if the front overhang is 64" you'll be level with 6" of clearance.
That is a good way to do it.

One thing I have no idea about....will the coil sprung 2500 not sag a bit more that 2" with that pin weight?

I know my leaf sprung 3500 will be stiffer, and it drops 1-1/2" with 1700 pin. I figured the coil springs would drop more initially... But all this is just thinking out loud.
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:27 PM   #11
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I was just using 2" as hypothetical. My 12 2500 CTD sags just shy of 2" with 1800lbs on the rear. I'm guessing the 321 would be about 2400+lbs all loaded. I would think that would drop it 2".
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:39 PM   #12
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I was just using 2" as hypothetical. My 12 2500 CTD sags just shy of 2" with 1800lbs on the rear. I'm guessing the 321 would be about 2400+lbs all loaded. I would think that would drop it 2".
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:47 PM   #13
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That is a good way to do it.

One thing I have no idea about....will the coil sprung 2500 not sag a bit more that 2" with that pin weight?

I know my leaf sprung 3500 will be stiffer, and it drops 1-1/2" with 1700 pin. I figured the coil springs would drop more initially... But all this is just thinking out loud.
My '15 2500 only sags 2" with 1,800 lb in the bed. I was very surprised the first time I put a load in it. I personally think the coils are so much better than leaf springs.
Quote:
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I was just using 2" as hypothetical. My 12 2500 CTD sags just shy of 2" with 1800lbs on the rear. I'm guessing the 321 would be about 2400+lbs all loaded. I would think that would drop it 2".

From my Note 5
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:04 PM   #14
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One detail I left out, the hitch isn't installed yet so I don't have a easy way to connect and see if it's level. What I'm stressing about is the cost of installing the hitch in the truck.. and then finding out the truck wont work..

I'm gathering though it will be close and I might have to cheat a little with the nose. I like the suggestion of measuring the rv from ground to rv and using the calculation to see how close I will be. Not sure how much the truck will drop.. at the end of the day I guess I just need to get it done and find out. Still a lot of money riding on it work out.
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Old 05-24-2016, 03:20 PM   #15
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I have your set up for the most part. 16' Megacab 2500 with the 6.7L. I am using the B&W RVK3600 (set to the lowest setting) that fits in the factory pucks. I LOVE the hitch. I'm towing a Eagle HT 26.5BHS which is probably quite a bit lighter then yours.

My trailer had an extra hole of adjustment on the leaf spring shackles so I had the dealer adjust it to the highest setting, looks like it gives it an extra 1.5"-2" in height. I also ordered the trailer with the 16" wheels so that add's some height also. The axles on my trailer came from the factory already flipped.

Anyways, it sits a tiny bit nose high but its nothing to be worried about and I think it still looks good. It looks more pronounced then it actually is in the one picture in the parking lot. The picture at the gas station is much more accurate.

And on another note, i put the hitch together and installed in about 1hr. It was a very easy task.....



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Old 05-24-2016, 03:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtedelen View Post
I have your set up for the most part. 16' Megacab 2500 with the 6.7L. I am using the B&W RVK3600 (set to the lowest setting) that fits in the factory pucks. I LOVE the hitch. I'm towing a Eagle HT 26.5BHS which is probably quite a bit lighter then yours.

My trailer had an extra hole of adjustment on the leaf spring shackles so I had the dealer adjust it to the highest setting, looks like it gives it an extra 1.5"-2" in height. I also ordered the trailer with the 16" wheels so that add's some height also. The axles on my trailer came from the factory already flipped.

Anyways, it sits a tiny bit nose high but its nothing to be worried about and I think it still looks good. It looks more pronounced then it actually is in the one picture in the parking lot. The picture at the gas station is much more accurate.

And on another note, i put the hitch together and installed in about 1hr. It was a very easy task.....
How much space do you have between the rails and the RV? Are you sitting at 6 inches?
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Old 05-24-2016, 04:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarnae View Post
How much space do you have between the rails and the RV? Are you sitting at 6 inches?
At least 6" but i'm guessing closer to 7" or 7-1/2"....

Here is a cropped photo zooming in on the clearance. If we hook up this weekend I'll get an exact measurement for you.

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Old 05-25-2016, 03:49 AM   #18
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Measured my Ram 2500 Outdoorsman rail height last night before hooking up. Right at 56 inches. With the Eagle 33.5RETS hooked up, the bed dropped 1.5 inches. I was amazed there was no more drop than that!
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:38 AM   #19
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Here's a thread with pictures of my initial setup and then with the subframe if you're interested.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f6...ght-18663.html
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Old 05-25-2016, 12:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Here's a thread with pictures of my initial setup and then with the subframe if you're interested.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f6...ght-18663.html
I did notice on my 16' Eagle HT 26.5 BHS a sub frame is already installed. I think Jayco may have realized the level issue and tried to remedy it on current production. Beneath the trailer frame there is an approximate 4" piece of welded rectangular steel welded in between the trailer chassis and leaf spring hangers. This may be why mine sits mostly level from the factory with my 16' Ram
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