I am sure this has been covered before on the forum, but I am not finding posts using the search method. I have a 2015 29.5 BHDS and recently went to a 2014 2500 RAM. The trailer as you can imagine is not level. I know it won't be prefect just switching to a larger wheel and tire. I wanted to see what others have done and what setups they went with to help the trailer ride more level. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bigger wheels and tires will help, but not with making the trailer taller. We also have the 29.5BHDS and a 2015 Ram 2500. We've done everything to raise the trailer, including flipping the axles. Still, our trailer is about 5" nose high. Our next step, now, is to have a sub-frame added. This will raise the rear to correct height. We will also go ahead and replace the shackles and axle hardware with heavier duty ones. We will also have the axles aligned, after all the hardware has been replaced.
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U.S. Air Force (1979 to 1994)
2016 Jayco 29.5BHDS
2015 Ram 2500 (6.7L Cummins Diesel)
Queen Creek, Arizona
I've got a 29.5 BHDS on order and waiting to see what it's going to be like with my 2015 F-350. I thought they came with axles below the springs....
I'm prepared to have to go the sub-frame route, and have a decent shop in the area that I trust to do the work. And if I have to go this route, I may replace the springs at the same time. By the time they add the dual pane windows and 4 point leveling on my rig, not too sure I am going to have any cargo capacity left to carry our stuff. Since that floorplan couldn't be had in an Eagle with higher capacities and larger water tank, we decided we'll do what we need to do to make it what we want. Really liked the floor plan and didn't want to go any longer.
I did order with the 16" upgrade though. First sign of anything fishy with the tires and I'm replacing them with LT tires.
Bigger wheels and tires will help, but not with making the trailer taller. We also have the 29.5BHDS and a 2015 Ram 2500. We've done everything to raise the trailer, including flipping the axles. Still, our trailer is about 5" nose high. Our next step, now, is to have a sub-frame added. This will raise the rear to correct height. We will also go ahead and replace the shackles and axle hardware with heavier duty ones. We will also have the axles aligned, after all the hardware has been replaced.
I was already going to raise the the axles to the next notch, but that sounds like that and wheels isn't going to be close. What am I looking at in regards to a subframe ?? A good RV dealer can do this or should I look outside ?? This is getting to be more than I expected. I want to do it right however.
I was already going to raise the the axles to the next notch, but that sounds like that and wheels isn't going to be close. What am I looking at in regards to a subframe ?? A good RV dealer can do this or should I look outside ?? This is getting to be more than I expected. I want to do it right however.
The other option would be to put blocks between the axles and springs to lift you up more. I know trucks use them so they can work& be reliable. I would think you wouldn't want more than a couple inches. You'd have to replace the U bolts for longer ones.
If I had a subframe added, I'd get a quote from a frame shop that's only a few miles away. They aligned my axles on my first rig and were surprisingly reasonable. If it was too pricey, I'd do it myself. But I'd probably bolt the subframe to the frame. I like welds, but not where there will be a lot of bounce. If it isn't perfect, it will crack and take the steel with it.
Can anyone confirm if the axels on the HT series come as spring over or under?
Also has anyone in this thread used the Correct Track system. I read on another thread that it helped quite a bit with getting more height, plus helps align the trailer and improve towing.
Can anyone confirm if the axels on the HT series come as spring over or under?
Also has anyone in this thread used the Correct Track system. I read on another thread that it helped quite a bit with getting more height, plus helps align the trailer and improve towing.
The first thing that comes to mind: "We can't build them right, so we'll invent an adjustment system for you to purchase"
I'm not impressed. It is like a cam bolt used for control arm adjustments on vehicles, which tend to wear out, and I'd be worried that it would be prone to wear. Also don't like the statement "the owner can re adjust the axle if you hit a pothole". If you hit a pothole and affect your axle alignment, you bent something. Adjusting the octagon is treating the symptom while ignoring the disease. The bent thing will still be bent.
I was also put off by their "laser alignment". All they are doing is measuring the distance from center of pin to the front of tire at a fixed height. While this helps, it's only one small part of a real alignment. They do nothing to check axle placement from side to side, nor the camber in the axle.
I suppose it could work, but I'll let someone else try it.
I am sure this has been covered before on the forum, but I am not finding posts using the search method. I have a 2015 29.5 BHDS and recently went to a 2014 2500 RAM. The trailer as you can imagine is not level. I know it won't be prefect just switching to a larger wheel and tire. I wanted to see what others have done and what setups they went with to help the trailer ride more level. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
What hitch are you using? I may be in the 'same boat' as you soon. My 5'er is on order, but I also know the 2014-15 Ram 2500's are 3/4" taller than my 2013. I plan to use the Anderson Ultimate Hitch and it has 3 different height adjustments so I'm not sure how Nose-High I'll be with this setup yet. I also ordered the 16" Wheel upgrade package and plan to have the dealer flip the axles.
Also, can someone with a 2016 29.5 measure how far from the rear wheels to the front of the nose is please. I need to know if I'll have to add onto my driveway where I plan to park the camper.
Thanks,
Dave...
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2015 Ram 3500, CTD, CCLB Dually, Aisin, 4x4 in Maximum Steel, Andersen Ultimate Hitch (v2)
I have a B&W Slider hitch and a Mor-Ryde pin box, and adjustments for both have been maxed out to lower the nose. Still, I'm at least 5" nose high. Now, can you still tow nose high? Yes! The long term affects (over 10,000 miles) would be your rear spring and axle taking more load than the front ones, which could lead into premature wear to the axle components and tire blowouts. So, I'm hoping to prevent these from happening, and create some peace of mind for us, by adding the sub-frame and upgrade the suspension hardware to heavier duty one (with wet bolts and bushings.)
Wolverine, regarding cost for the sub-frame, adding new hardware and aligning the axles, the quotes I got were between $1,300 to $1,800. In AZ we have a RV suspension shop that specializes in this area, which was highly recommended--and the quote was very reasonable. I'm thinking when all said and done, I'll be shelling out about $1,500 or so.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aero_Dave
What hitch are you using? I may be in the 'same boat' as you soon. My 5'er is on order, but I also know the 2014-15 Ram 2500's are 3/4" taller than my 2013. I plan to use the Anderson Ultimate Hitch and it has 3 different height adjustments so I'm not sure how Nose-High I'll be with this setup yet. I also ordered the 16" Wheel upgrade package and plan to have the dealer flip the axles.
Also, can someone with a 2016 29.5 measure how far from the rear wheels to the front of the nose is please. I need to know if I'll have to add onto my driveway where I plan to park the camper.
Thanks,
Dave...
__________________
U.S. Air Force (1979 to 1994)
2016 Jayco 29.5BHDS
2015 Ram 2500 (6.7L Cummins Diesel)
Queen Creek, Arizona
I too, was talked out of going the Correct Track route, due to the cam washer wearing out over time. A good suspension shop should be able to correctly align the axles without fancy gadgets. I'm an advocate for doing things right (and safe) the first time. So, after more research, the best route for me is to have a new sub frame welded on and upgrade the suspension hardware.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdash
The first thing that comes to mind: "We can't build them right, so we'll invent an adjustment system for you to purchase"
I'm not impressed. It is like a cam bolt used for control arm adjustments on vehicles, which tend to wear out, and I'd be worried that it would be prone to wear. Also don't like the statement "the owner can re adjust the axle if you hit a pothole". If you hit a pothole and affect your axle alignment, you bent something. Adjusting the octagon is treating the symptom while ignoring the disease. The bent thing will still be bent.
I was also put off by their "laser alignment". All they are doing is measuring the distance from center of pin to the front of tire at a fixed height. While this helps, it's only one small part of a real alignment. They do nothing to check axle placement from side to side, nor the camber in the axle.
I suppose it could work, but I'll let someone else try it.
__________________
U.S. Air Force (1979 to 1994)
2016 Jayco 29.5BHDS
2015 Ram 2500 (6.7L Cummins Diesel)
Queen Creek, Arizona
What hitch are you using? I may be in the 'same boat' as you soon. My 5'er is on order, but I also know the 2014-15 Ram 2500's are 3/4" taller than my 2013. I plan to use the Anderson Ultimate Hitch and it has 3 different height adjustments so I'm not sure how Nose-High I'll be with this setup yet. I also ordered the 16" Wheel upgrade package and plan to have the dealer flip the axles.
Also, can someone with a 2016 29.5 measure how far from the rear wheels to the front of the nose is please. I need to know if I'll have to add onto my driveway where I plan to park the camper.
Thanks,
Dave...
I cannot confirm that the axles are below the springs, but am pretty sure they are.
I will be using my same old Pullrite Superglide from when we bought our current 5th in 2006. It is NOT height adjustable.
I have heard more talk of adjusting the height of the hitch lately and I am not sure that I understand it. I believe the controlling factor is normally the clearance between the fiver's overhang and the bed, shooting for 6 to 8 inches. I suppose you can change the level either by changing the hitch or the pin box, but either way, bed rail clearance is key, and likely the controlling factor. This is followed by dealing with the trailer suspension to raise it up if necessary.
My 2016 29.5BHDS came from the factory with the axles already flipped. So, I'm thinking all others will come out the same way.
Regarding adjustments, I have the B&W Companion slider hitch, which has three different up/down adjustment holes. Plus, my Mor/Ryde pin box also has three adjustment holes, which was repositioned to its lowest setting. Even with these adjustments I still have at least 7" clearance between the trailer and the bed rails.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdash
I cannot confirm that the axles are below the springs, but am pretty sure they are.
I will be using my same old Pullrite Superglide from when we bought our current 5th in 2006. It is NOT height adjustable.
I have heard more talk of adjusting the height of the hitch lately and I am not sure that I understand it. I believe the controlling factor is normally the clearance between the fiver's overhang and the bed, shooting for 6 to 8 inches. I suppose you can change the level either by changing the hitch or the pin box, but either way, bed rail clearance is key, and likely the controlling factor. This is followed by dealing with the trailer suspension to raise it up if necessary.
__________________
U.S. Air Force (1979 to 1994)
2016 Jayco 29.5BHDS
2015 Ram 2500 (6.7L Cummins Diesel)
Queen Creek, Arizona
I have a 2014 model. The axle is already under the spring from the factory on mine. I changed mine to 16s just for better tires....gained very very little height but I wasn't looking for more height then. My 01 f250 was 53" at the bed side. The camper and truck was perfectly level with 8" of clearance.
Fast forward to now. I picked up a low miles 2013 Ram 3500 laramie the other day, DRW truck. The bed side on it is 59", so 6" higher than my ole Ford. I hooked up my camper and the truck is close to level, but camper is way nose high. Still have 8" of clearance at the front, but only 5" at the tail gate.....thats too tight for some of the places I go and it looks goofy that nose high. I jacked up the camper and put 4" wood blocks under the tires to see how close it would be. I think it will be close enough with 4" of lift.
Not sure how Im going to lift it yet. I've built trailers before and have very good craftsman skills and all the tools to do a subframe lift....but im not sure thats the way Im going yet. Thinking along the lines of building a taller leaf spring perch and welding it to the housing, then just get longer u-bolts and be done...but im not positive yet.
Thank you everyone for your responses. It has truly given me a lot to think about and definitely what to expect. I want to do this right the first time. I hate switching tow vehicles and having to start over so to speak. I was given this 2014 RAM from a family member who passed. I can't complain, but now I have to make it right.
I know this isn't a perfect picture to show how level it rides, but here is my 2016 29.5 BHDS on my 2011 F-350. I have the 16" wheel and the Revolutioin pinbox options on my trailer The suspension is in the topmost factory position. It came with the axles "flipped."
My truck has 18" factory tires a 2" leveling kit on the front, and air bags in the rear. So the bed is at factory height, over the rear axles, but rides level no matter how much weight I load it with (within reason)
My hitch is the B&W OEM companion.
Even though it doesn't look like it in this picture due to the perspective, it rides very level.