Mods to 377 RLBH?

[Dskyward]

Originally Posted by Kahoneys

We put a solid core door in place of the pocket door. Love the sound barrier it provides for our daughter!

I did see that door you put in, nice for better functioning privacy. That's for sure. However even at that, with mostly me and my wife 11 months out of the year, I just wasn't interested in dealing with a swinging door competing with the fridge door hitting each other.

[Dskyward]

Today, I spent another 4.5 hrs feeding the two 15' HDMI cables by Twisted Veins, 12' RCA audio cables (I broke one of the tips of the original), and a longer 15' coax antenna cable down behind the wall behind the radio. I sweated so much let my arm sweat in the radio whole marred the finish down to the pressboard and it all expanded out from my perspiration. I've been meaning to do this for a long time so I wouldn't have to keep fidgeting with the six-foot HDMI cable's between the Blu-ray player in the Apple TV.

There are 2 channels about an inch sq plastic tubing down behind the wall that a lot of cables are already fed and I used the one to the right since it seemed to have extra room left over to feed extra cables. I seem to hit all kinds of corner lips, but I simply taped the the new coax cable to the tail of the old and pulled it down to hole behind the two electric plugs behind the fireplace. You will hit snags as it goes down. I tried both feed directions and was also taping too many cables at one time. The last HDMI cable I fed down (by itself only) with hardly no snags in under a minute! Dang I said. Either way you must persevere it can be done and everything will be easier setup after that. For the rest of you guys, just feed the 3 new cables from the top down one at a time, but in my case I had to replace the audio cable, very thin and flimsy, it needed help feeding down. My first attempt last week was with a 10' RCA 'monster' cable, and approved not long enough. It can be done in about an hour but allow yourself two.

Now the TV can be retracted down successively with all attached cables intact (be sure to attach them to the arm clip for this up n down action to work properly!) and no more fidgeting with them at each campsite between the Blu-ray player and the Apple TV. So as the TV is 3 inches higher this allows for the sound bar to be stored below it and rides on the reinforced shelf in my earlier post. I found a two dollar Walmart 90° three-way plug to share the single outlet above the fireplace plu. This worked nicely. I've also got 90° coax screw adapters on order to aid the coax sharp turns.

I simply cut a piece of foam pipe insulation and it fits on top of the TV for the lid to rest on top and a piece of gaffer tape to secure it while I'm traveling with this mod the dimensions are just right so that the TV can rest against the corner curves of the cut out very nicely and I will stay very secure, probably a little better than the factory post which can still wobble as there are no tie-downs.

On another note, I discovered that the new Furrion radio that Jayco service installed has the right and left speakers in the ceiling backwards. I will fool with that on another day, as tomorrow morning, we begin our journey 1500 miles to Devils Tower & Casper Wyoming for next Monday's solar eclipse! So excited.

BTW, my new Sulastic springs are great! The mega cab duly now rides like a half ton truck when non towing. The 52 gallon Titan fuel tank however is not! I only have 5 1/2 inches of ground clearance! The company's engineers are stumped at all the pictures I sent them. I'll be putting the old tank back on when I get back and I will get a Transfer flow in bed fuel tank instead.

[MadJoker TX]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Now my latest "mod".

Darn dog tore up the screen while we were out on a hike on our last trip [emoji35]

So, I replaced the screen and added a metal screen door protector. Now that little chihuahua can try to scratch at the door all he wants. [emoji23]




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What screen door protector is that? I had ordered one but had to return as their was no way to mount it to screen door without getting in the way of the latch.


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[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by MadJoker TX

What screen door protector is that? I had ordered one but had to return as their was no way to mount it to screen door without getting in the way of the latch.


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It's something I got from Lowes. You have to cut the arms to fit


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[MadJoker TX]

Originally Posted by Summitstev

Thanks everyone for the AC duct tape mod. Just completed it...only took about an hour. Also found the diverter in the master bedroom AC unit partially blocked the vents. Fixed that as well.
Always great info form this group!

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Same happened to mind and caused a bunch of water to build up in the fan motor housing and started to drip on the bed. Once I put back in place, I had to go on the roof and remove the main cover and the cover that is over the fan motor and get all the water out of there as well. Was a great time while on vacation at Disney World.


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[MadJoker TX]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Replaced faucets today


Old faucet


New faucet


Old kitchen faucet

Did you have to change out the pex fittings to attaché to the new faucets? Or did the new faucets with those smaller connections work with the pex?



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[seansbass1]

Mine worked with the pex, this was the very first mod we did!


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[ReelCool]

Wow we put the same two faucets in last year in our camper. We also added a backsplash in the bathroom -plastic 12x12 squares that look like glass tile. I love the faucets but wish there was a hose to pull out for rinsing in the kitchen -- good thing I picked them, so I cannot complain!

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by MadJoker TX

Did you have to change out the pex fittings to attaché to the new faucets? Or did the new faucets with those smaller connections work with the pex?



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I needed to add an adapter fitting on the end of each water line. You could also just cut off the original threaded fitting and add a shut off, either with a pex crimping tool or just get shark bite fittings. Then you can attach the faucet's water lines to the shut offs just like you would at home.


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[UpstateNYer]

Originally Posted by Dskyward

A few more mods. One- to the main basement door, which I keep hitting my head on constantly; I used a pair of rv compartment door magnets from Amazon. $20 for 2 pr. As the basement door is somewhat heavy, I went ahead and used one pr, saving the other pr for the outdoor kitchen door. Both are plenty adequate, even in wind. So much easier and convenient to open and close.

Two- I added a third battery, and was able to place a EverStart group 27DC from Walmart in front of the other two (Mighty Bruin DP24-85), which came from the dealer. I'm sure some of you may say make all 3 the same, so maybe in the future, I'll replace the orig 2 with same grp27. It was great to have on hand the dealer supplied 2 gauge 9" extra connector wires (came with 4 red, 4 black) to hook 4 more batts in parallel, but I read online how connecting them inline isn't prudent if you want them to last. A must read on multi batt systems. So I went with this 3 parallel illustration shown below. It's not perfectly even feed, but this should do ok.
For the three batteries to ride secure, and not fall thru the floor rails, I had to move the steel strap bracket back 1". The orig self tapping screws still worked great. The orig black strap didn't have the holding power as these spring loaded jaw clamps have. Just cut new strap to desired length and cauterize with flame. I used Gaffer tape to keep red plastic cap intact. The small extra red and black wires powers the electric over hydraulic disc brake actuator, located above the #1 propane tank. The lower left #2 red lead goes to the rearmost batt positive post, while the orig ground leads stay up front on the neg post.
I got about 18 hrs run time on the Xantrex 1000 inverter running the res refer on our first boondock outing in the FL Keys last Feb. I'm not sure if the stock converter is still capable of deciding how much juice to give to each on multi battery configurations. I just like knowing the fridge can continue to run while on all day hauls.

Doing the magnet mod this weekend... What do you think about using on entry door? My wife is always complaining that its hard to reach in and undo that door holder.. May just get an extra magnet set and try it. Can't remember if door opens far enough for it to be able to catch..

Ordered one of these to try as well

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DTHW7Z

[Dskyward]

Originally Posted by UpstateNYer

Doing the magnet mod this weekend... What do you think about using on entry door? My wife is always complaining that its hard to reach in and undo that door holder.. May just get an extra magnet set and try it. Can't remember if door opens far enough for it to be able to catch..

Ordered one of these to try as well

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DTHW7Z

You'll love them on the cargo doors. One pair each is all that's needed. Be sure you drill a small pilot hole first. I'm with you on the awkward front door latch that's there, but I've not thought about using the same magnets on the front door. If they fit you'd want two pr. The one you show on Amazon looks promising, but the reviews say the magnet may be too weak. Anytime a latch can be replaced by a magnet catch is a better idea. Let us know what you find out with the front door. I'm also still looking for the best way to secure the water panel door on other side.

[1stnlast59]

Originally Posted by Dskyward

You'll love them on the cargo doors. One pair each is all that's needed. Be sure you drill a small pilot hole first. I'm with you on the awkward front door latch that's there, but I've not thought about using the same magnets on the front door. If they fit you'd want two pr. The one you show on Amazon looks promising, but the reviews say the magnet may be too weak. Anytime a latch can be replaced by a magnet catch is a better idea. Let us know what you find out with the front door. I'm also still looking for the best way to secure the water panel door on other side.

I put one set of magnets on the water access door also. It's on the propane door

[Dskyward]

Originally Posted by 1stnlast59

I put one set of magnets on the water access door also. It's on the propane door

Hi 1stnlast59,
Can you post a picture of your mag location on the propane door please? I think my door bends back with a too large gap.

[1stnlast59]

I'm not sure how to post pics. U usually use Photobucket but for some reason it hasn't been working out for me on another forum. I'll try this evening.

[Bookemdanno]

Originally Posted by 1stnlast59

I'm not sure how to post pics. U usually use Photobucket but for some reason it hasn't been working out for me on another forum. I'll try this evening.

Photobucket is now making you pay some unreasonable amount of $$$ to utilize them. You'll have to find another site to use that kind of service if you want to be able to do it for free. Otherwise just use the "go advanced" button on this site when responding from a PC. If you use the app "tapatalk" on your phone, you can add directly from your phone.

[1stnlast59]

Trying to see if this works. Lol

[UpstateNYer]

Originally Posted by Dskyward

You'll love them on the cargo doors. One pair each is all that's needed. Be sure you drill a small pilot hole first. I'm with you on the awkward front door latch that's there, but I've not thought about using the same magnets on the front door. If they fit you'd want two pr. The one you show on Amazon looks promising, but the reviews say the magnet may be too weak. Anytime a latch can be replaced by a magnet catch is a better idea. Let us know what you find out with the front door. I'm also still looking for the best way to secure the water panel door on other side.

Can't wait to install them! I did stop by camper yesterday, and it appears that the simple magnet set will work once the brackets for the current door holder are removed. Only thing that stops door from opening all the way is the door stop. Could be somewhat dangerous because that door stop/bumper will not be there if the wind catches the door when its opened. Would be no buffer there. I'll give it a go and let you know how I make out. I am going to try the magnetic door stopper first since it attaches with 3m tape as an option, and see how that works.. If we love it, I will make it more permanent by attaching with screws.

[Dskyward]

I'll be watching for pictures. Let us know if the magnetic 'force' is with you. Ha

[NitroStar]

What's the best way to remove the black window blinds from under the window boxes? Got back from Beach trip and rear box right side had broke loose. Only held up by 2 screws with NO washers ! Man oh man

[Dskyward]

Originally Posted by NitroStar

What's the best way to remove the black window blinds from under the window boxes? Got back from Beach trip and rear box right side had broke loose. Only held up by 2 screws with NO washers ! Man oh man

Not sure, I've not ever removed one. For my 377, however, the rear 7' valance box and all has fallen twice. First time, the left side came down, the second time both sides came down. I ended up putting 3 more 2" L brackets which are more heavy duty, and moved the factory brackets outward a tad and I hit the aluminum frame. I had to drill a pilot hole first, but if you have metal screws that are self tapping, not necessary. It's not coming down again.