30amp help.

[TBishop]

Our RV does not run on 30 amp. No fridge (residential fridge installed so no propane) or anything 110 related when plugged in to 30amp This includes A/C. When we're on 110V conversion we can run the A/C, 2 tv's, 2 Roku's, mobile internet, fans and fridge! Any idea why this would happen? I'm asking because although we can run the A/C when it's not too hot it kicks the 15amp breaker when it works too hard. Wondering if a 20amp would fix this since 30 does nothing. We've meter checked everything possible and even bought am entirely new cord just to be sure. We're at a loss and so is our 2 RV mechanic friends.

[craigav]

Welcome to the Jayco Owner's forums.

I would test the 30a supply side again. I suspect that it is wired wrong. Can you share the details of what and how you checked this with your meter earlier and the results you saw (voltages)? ~CA

[TBishop]

Don't remember numbers, sorry. Even had an electrician come to the house to check the wiring to the plug and 30amp outlet.

[Bill Johnson]

can you check to make sure you have 120 power at the converter with a meter and the main breaker, turn it off and back on, just to make sure it wasn't tripped. Don't put your face in front of the panel when switching

[craigav]

Originally Posted by TBishop

Don't remember numbers, sorry. Even had an electrician come to the house to check the wiring to the plug and 30amp outlet.

Keep in mind that over the years there have been many reports here where an electrician mis-wired the 30a connection. That is my concern here for you as there is a huge difference in wiring a 30a connection for a clothes dryer vs an RV (240v vs 120v). To be more clear, the electrician's that I am speaking of wired the connection properly for what is correct for a drier, but completely incorrect for an RV. Many times the electrician reportedly was not aware there was a difference.

Does your RV have an EMS in it such as a progressive industries Surge\ems? If so, I would check it and see if it reports an issue, as it may be preventing the power from flowing. However, don't bypass it if you have one, as that may be saving you from bigger issues.

With another thought, is the 30a connection at your home or property where you have access to see the circuit breaker feeding your outlet? If so, is it a single pole breaker or dual pole breaker? (in other words two breakers tied together with one handle that ties two breakers together). ~CA

Also, do you have a meter? If so, I can tell you what and how to check the 30a supply side receptacle. ~CA

[Bill Johnson]

You electrician might have wired it wrong. use your meter and check it

[GHen]

If you don’t have power using the 30 amp plug, but you do with the 20amp plug, then the problem is with the cord or the outlet, not your rv.

And yes, even some “part time” electricians don’t know the difference between a 30amp welder/dryer etc plug vs a 30amp rv plug. They are not wired the same.

[craigav]

On a related thought, another reason why the issue is with the 30a supply. When you use a 15to30 amp adapter, as far as the RV is concerned that is the same electrical connection as plugging into the 30a receptacle in regards to the wiring, the difference of course is that there isn't enough amperage to run very much in the RV when on a 15a protected outlet, and yes a 20a outlet likely would run one A/C, but I wouldn't install a 20a outlet if you don't already have one and instead I would fix the 30a outlet which I am confident is the root cause of the issue you are having. ~CA

[craigav]

If you don't have a meter at this time, purchase this one or very similar to this one. If you purchase a different one, it needs to state that it works for DC current and is True RMS (or just RMS).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z398YWF...v_ov_lig_dp_it

fyi, you don't need to do any DC testing for the issue you are having now, but if you keep your RV long enough you will be very happy that you purchased a meter that can read DC current. ~CA

BTW, when you get a chance, feel free to go ahead and update your profile with your RV information and also it would be helpful to list it in your signature line. Although it really doesn't matter for this question.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by TBishop

Our RV does not run on 30 amp. No fridge (residential fridge installed so no propane) or anything 110 related when plugged in to 30amp This includes A/C. When we're on 110V conversion we can run the A/C, 2 tv's, 2 Roku's, mobile internet, fans and fridge! Any idea why this would happen? I'm asking because although we can run the A/C when it's not too hot it kicks the 15amp breaker when it works too hard. Wondering if a 20amp would fix this since 30 does nothing. We've meter checked everything possible and even bought am entirely new cord just to be sure. We're at a loss and so is our 2 RV mechanic friends.

I know this isn't it, but did you turn on the 30 amp breaker in the basement or wherever your panel is. The electrician might have left it off

[Bill Johnson]

I don't think he wired it for 240 because it would have damaged your rv by now

[Vicr]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

I don't think he wired it for 240 because it would have damaged your rv by now

x2.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

I don't think he wired it for 240 because it would have damaged your rv by now

Not if they have a hardwired Progessive Industries EMS like I have (and many other RV'rs have). Those EMS's and likely many similar units will not allow 240v to pass which is one reason I was asking about that possibility. This could also explain how the outlet has voltage as tested (but perhaps 240v) and at the same time hasn't damaged anything.

I am highly confident that the 30a receptacle is the issue, however the outlet needs to be tested with a meter to know for sure.

Again and for the OP, if you do have an EMS, certainly don't set it to bypass mode or remove it until you determine the root cause of the issue with no power in the RV when you are plugged into the 30a receptacle, as doing so certainly could damage your RV electrical appliances.

~CA

[Bill Johnson]

Like someone said above use an extension cord plug into any outlet in your home, use a 30 amp to 20 amp adaptor. If you have power the 30 amp outlet is bad no power the camper has electrical problems

[Bill Johnson]

Right, even is he had one of the surge suppressors it would tell him the outlet was wired wrong and why and he never would have plugged into it in the first place

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by TBishop

Wondering if a 20amp would fix this since 30 does nothing

If you're asking about upping the breaker in the trailer to a 20 amp, no, the trailer wiring is gauged to a 15-amp circuit. Changing a breaker to 20 amps without completely rewiring the 110 volt side of the TT would be very bad indeed. We want to keep you safe, and your TT from disaster,

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

If you're asking about upping the breaker in the trailer to a 20 amp, no, the trailer wiring is gauged to a 15-amp circuit. Changing a breaker to 20 amps without completely rewiring the 110 volt side of the TT would be very bad indeed. We want to keep you safe, and your TT from disaster,

It sounds like he can run on his inverter, all 120 volt things, but his 15 amp breaker in the camper for the AC. I guess it is possible his breaker is weak, he could replace the 15 amp breaker with a new 15 amp one. He still has the problem with the 30 amp outlet he had installed on his home. We need more information and clarification from his post

[JB13502]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

If you're asking about upping the breaker in the trailer to a 20 amp, no, the trailer wiring is gauged to a 15-amp circuit. Changing a breaker to 20 amps without completely rewiring the 110 volt side of the TT would be very bad indeed. We want to keep you safe, and your TT from disaster,

My guess is OP is referring to the supply breaker. The AC will trip a 15 amp breaker, but it will also trip a 20 amp breaker when called to task.

I'm also guessing that OP is sited at a permanent. If not, just pull down to a CG or RV repair shop and hook up to their 30A to see if problem follows.

My guess, like all the others, is in the supply side wiring and not at the RV.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by JB13502

My guess is OP is referring to the supply breaker. The AC will trip a 15 amp breaker, but it will also trip a 20 amp breaker when called to task.

I'm also guessing that OP is sited at a permanent. If not, just pull down to a CG or RV repair shop and hook up to their 30A to see if problem follows.

My guess, like all the others, is in the supply side wiring and not at the RV.

He could even go to a state park and say he was testing his camper or just looking around. Unless you're in Wisconsin, they charge just to drive in and do nothing

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by JB13502

My guess is OP is referring to the supply breaker. The AC will trip a 15 amp breaker, but it will also trip a 20 amp breaker when called to task.

I'm also guessing that OP is sited at a permanent. If not, just pull down to a CG or RV repair shop and hook up to their 30A to see if problem follows.

My guess, like all the others, is in the supply side wiring and not at the RV.

That's possible. Maybe he'll post a clarification on where the breaker he's having trouble with is located.

However, the same wire gauge size still applies to household panels. A 15 amp circuit will be wired with a 14 gauge Romex, and a 20 amp circuit will have 12 gauge wiring. At least that's the electrical code here.