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Old 06-30-2018, 03:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by dslee View Post
For my 2013 White Hawk, the Dexter manual (3500lb) says torque to 60 lbs, then to 70 lbs, with max torque 75lbs.

So if accurate, 100lbs is way too much.
The Dexter manual that came with my 2015 195RB provides 2 different torque charts for wheels. One is for Dexter Steel Wheels prior to June of 2004 which shows a 3-stage torque sequence. The max torque amount varies depending on wheel size. Final stage shows 50-75 ft. lb. for 12" and 13" wheels and a 90-120 ft. lb. for 14" to 16" wheels. The other chart shows maximum torque based on stud size - 1/2" studs are the lowest with a max. of 120 ft. lbs.
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Old 06-30-2018, 03:28 PM   #22
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On the subject of checking lug nuts, be sure to also check them on your tow vehicle.

A few years ago we lost a rear wheel at 55 mph while towing our 5th wheel. Truck was only a few months old with only 9,000 miles on it.

Note the rust on the shear points of some of the broken studs, indicating they may have been faulty or cracked due to over-tightening.
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Old 06-30-2018, 05:41 PM   #23
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Here’s the chart from our 2018 SLX 212.
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Old 06-30-2018, 06:16 PM   #24
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I read a few postings about buying those cheap torque wrenches. Just so you know cheap TW's can be off by many pounds as they age and get used. If you insist on using them I would suggest you find someone with a quality, certified, TW and compare yours to theirs. This way you can be sure your 100 foot pound TW really is 100lbs and not 60 or some other far off number . Just a suggestion.
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Old 06-30-2018, 06:44 PM   #25
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Good suggestion Jack. I tested my Harbor Freight TW against my old style one with the arrow gauge and it was -5lbs so I just compensate for that. But then again I don't know how accurate that one is either. FYI, those with aluminum rims if you over torque you can actually crack the rim.
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:09 PM   #26
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Wonder what model year the tt is? I think it is a few years old.

The break hubs look a few years old. But their is shinny new suspension parts.
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:58 AM   #27
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Although I have a full set of adjustable torque wrenches, most of the time I prefer using beam/pointer type torque wrenches. The beam/pointer is easy to see---little chance of misdialing a torque setting. Have a full set of beam/pointer versions by KD Tool. They're more than accurate enough for most jobs as long as you keep the beam/pointer centered (i.e., calibrated).
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Old 07-01-2018, 04:52 PM   #28
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If you have an adjustable torque wrench, make sure to lower the setting after you finish using it. Leaving it set can cause the wrench to lose it's accuracy.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:01 AM   #29
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Torque every trip

After reading the Owners Manual for our WhiteHawk 33 RSKS, I bought a very good TW. I check the trailer lugs every trip. Takes only a few minutes.
But I haven't checked my Tundra lugs and I suspect your suggestion to do so is well founded.
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Old 07-02-2018, 07:20 AM   #30
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But I haven't checked my Tundra lugs and I suspect your suggestion to do so is well founded.

The Specs for my 2007 Tundra with Alloy wheels is 97 foot pounds. Uneven or improper torque can also lead to warped brake rotors
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Old 07-02-2018, 09:41 AM   #31
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FWIW, sometimes the lug nut torque specs for a particular vehicle are wheel/rim dependent. Steel wheels will typically have higher lug nut torque specs than the same vehicle with aluminum wheel/rims.
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:06 AM   #32
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Thank you for the reminder! I trusted my dealer. Maybe I should double check them myself, with a torque wrench!
NEVER trust the dealer, or anyone else for that matter. Well, I guess it's better stated like this: "Trust ... But verify."

I can't remember what the numbers were, but on my TT (Aluminum wheels) it was a 3-stage torque process. I checked about once a season, or if I had the wheels off for some reason.
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Old 07-02-2018, 12:22 PM   #33
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When I was picking up my rig from being serviced, I said .. "you probably already do this kind of thing when servicing, but.. did your guy air up the tires and crank down the lug nuts to spec while it was in?". I got the deer in the headlights look. Then I asked him to please check the torque specs before we leave the lot. - wow

In addition, I was told that the lugs are 1/2" but a half inch wrench is too small. Do the lugs have a slip-over cover that needs to be removed before cranking them down?
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Old 07-02-2018, 12:43 PM   #34
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X3 in the HF click torque wrench.

Hurry though! After the sale, the price goes back up to $19.99!
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Old 07-02-2018, 01:52 PM   #35
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My 2017 Eagle HT 27.5 RLTS with 15" wheels states that your torque settings should be as follows. Install the wheel with about 45 ft lbs of torque (impact wrench etc.) Then torque each wheel to 95 ft lbs. then 3rd, torque to 115 ft lbs. Manual states anywhere between 90-120 ft lbs of torque is acceptable. This includes 14" to 16" wheels.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:46 PM   #36
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In addition, I was told that the lugs are 1/2" but a half inch wrench is too small. Do the lugs have a slip-over cover that needs to be removed before cranking them down?
The stud is probably 1/2". The nut itself will be considerably larger. The chrome cover does not need to be removed.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:58 PM   #37
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In addition, I was told that the lugs are 1/2" but a half inch wrench is too small. Do the lugs have a slip-over cover that needs to be removed before cranking them down?
Try a 3/4" deep well socket. That's what I'm using on the lugs on my 15" steel wheels. The lugs have the chrome slip-on cover on them as well.
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Old 07-03-2018, 03:42 AM   #38
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That happened to us on our pop-up while we were in Tenn. the lug bolts came unscrewed from the brake drum and as we pulled to the side of road the tire and rim rolled down the shoulder of highway. i did check the torque prior to leaving for the 3 week trip and they still loostened up. good thing i had spare lug bolts in the tool box and were back on the road. we found a place to get a new spare because all 5 holes were elongated. lots of damage on the inside of the Rockwood. so now i check torques before leaving home and campground.
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