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Old 09-07-2015, 04:14 PM   #11
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GT,

What is the yellow payload sticker inside the drivers door jamb of the Explorer? Will state "Passengers and cargo not to exceed xxx(x)lbs". All passengers, cargo, the wd hitch, AND the tw of the trailer add up toward the max payload of the vehicle. With 5 (growing) girls plus the 2 of you, about 100lbs for the wd hitch, and a possible tw of 720-900lbs (12-15% based on 6k lb loaded trailer), you may be over the gvwr of the Explorer. unless you drive 2 vehicles. The other weight rating to watch even closer is the rear axle rating. Also watch the hitch ratings.

Good luck!!!
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:06 PM   #12
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Door sticker is 6300# gross. The front is in the 3200#, rear is 3350#, from the FoMoCo door sticker. Yellow tire sticker says 1227# cargo, but doesn't list a GVWR. Owners manual says, as equipped with WDH, up to 5000# trailer, and Combined GVWR of 10,400# GVWR. Guy in the explorer forum recently scaled his Explorer at 4980# with him and 2/3 tank. So, 4980# truck, 4780# for Dry TT is 9760#. This leaves 640# for cargo and 5 passengers (all teenage girls and a wife). So, at the end of the day, I'll probably be over by passenger weight of 650# (ish).

Another way, dry hitch weight of TT is about 500#. Passengers about 650#, for a total of 1150# of cargo on the axles of the Explorer. Still in the black. Math breaks down if I max the 6300# Explorer GVWR and the 5000# tow capacity, for a total of 11,300#, or about 1000# above Combined GVWR.
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2015 Explorer Sport 3.5L EcoBoost, AWD, and Tow PKG (Kid hauler, and ambitious TV)
2011 Shelby GT500 (only thing it pulls is G's)
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:21 AM   #13
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It occurred to me, that my replies my have seemed a bit argumentative. If so, I do apologize. I do understand that I am pushing my weight limits, and all advice received is taken into consideration. I really am interested in the advice of veterans.

To change direction, just a bit. I have purchased a rhino flex sewer hose, 25' water hose (RV type, though I'm not really sure of the difference), a pressure regulator, inline water filter with flex connection, Toilet treatment tabs (wow alot of choices), RV toilet paper, battery disconnect, couple of awning straps, a trailer aid ramp, and a pair of BAL x-chocks. 30amp to 15 amp connection and plug tester is on the list. Still need some dishes, and groceries, of course. The first trip is planned about 25 miles from the house, but still near plenty of stores, including RV dealers.
Any other items I should have for the first time out?
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2015 Jayco 26BH
1996 F350 SRW, 7.3 PSD, Crew Cab, 8' Bed, 3.55 gears (the beater, and TV)
2015 Explorer Sport 3.5L EcoBoost, AWD, and Tow PKG (Kid hauler, and ambitious TV)
2011 Shelby GT500 (only thing it pulls is G's)
2003 Jeep Liberty Limited (DD's)
1995 F-150 short wheel base (Sold)
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:29 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by finally03gt View Post
[snip]
To change direction, just a bit. I have purchased a rhino flex sewer hose, 25' water hose (RV type, though I'm not really sure of the difference), a pressure regulator, inline water filter with flex connection, Toilet treatment tabs (wow alot of choices), RV toilet paper, battery disconnect, couple of awning straps, a trailer aid ramp, and a pair of BAL x-chocks. 30amp to 15 amp connection and plug tester is on the list. Still need some dishes, and groceries, of course. The first trip is planned about 25 miles from the house, but still near plenty of stores, including RV dealers.
Any other items I should have for the first time out?
A standard garden hose will tend to leach the rubber into the water giving it a bad taste. The RV white or blue hoses do not do that.

Don't forget to get a 50 amp male to 30 amp female dogbone adapter. You never know when you will encounter a worn out 30 amp receptacle. If the pedestal has a 50 amp receptacle you are good to go.

One more thing to consider is an EMS (Electric Management System). Be sure it is not a surge only protector. There is a big difference.
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:40 AM   #15
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Try to load as light as possible, and as much as possible in the tt.

As for the dry tw, the manufacture does list it before the propane tanks or battery are on the tongue, so that will add 120-160lbs (20lb vs 30lb) even before loading anything else.

As for additional first trip needed "stuff".....
Make sure you still use regular chocks on the tire also, placing them before unhooking the hitch. The x-chocks are to try to eliminate some of the rocking.
25' water hose may not be enough. Depends on the campsite you have and how you are set up.
30amp extension cord can be needed at times also.
Leveling (Lego) blocks or boards for under the tires.
Levels on the trailer. Level it in the driveway, stick the levels on the front drivers corner (1 for front to back on the side wall, 1 for side to side on the front wall). Makes it easier to set up.
Awning mat(s) to help keep dirt outside the trailer.
Rubber gloves for dumping the holding tanks!!!! Box of latex/nitrile is what I buy.
Camp chairs, grill, table....
We use plasticware and paper plates. Keeps the washing down.
Dish soap, bar soap, towels.... Etc.....

Will try to think of more!!!!
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'16 Jay Flight 32 BHDS ELITE 32 BHDS MODS Reese DC HP

WDH SET UP. HOW A WDH WORKS. CAT SCALE HOW TO.
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:45 AM   #16
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Thanks for the scoop on the hoses. I got a white one.

50/30 amp, I hadn't thought of at all, great point. Is dogbone just the style?

Would you mind expanding on the EMS. (I work on robotic submarines, 4000v AC to 5v DC circuits, so I'm fairly capable) Is the inverter not able to handle voltage fluctuations?
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2015 Jayco 26BH
1996 F350 SRW, 7.3 PSD, Crew Cab, 8' Bed, 3.55 gears (the beater, and TV)
2015 Explorer Sport 3.5L EcoBoost, AWD, and Tow PKG (Kid hauler, and ambitious TV)
2011 Shelby GT500 (only thing it pulls is G's)
2003 Jeep Liberty Limited (DD's)
1995 F-150 short wheel base (Sold)
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:51 AM   #17
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The adapters are available in two types. "Hockey puck" and "Dogbone". The Dogbone has a short length of cable. The hockey puck does not and will generate heat under heavy load. Heat=reduced of voltage/power.

EMS will protect your electrical system for over/under voltage, reversed hot/neutral, open ground as well as surge protection. It will kill the power to your camper if the voltage drops too low. Low voltage can damage your air conditioner.
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:51 AM   #18
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Thanks vacation,

I was under the impression that the X-chocks prevented roll off. Packing light will be the challenge. 6 years of tent camping for a family of 7, we have plenty of gear..haha.
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2015 Jayco 26BH
1996 F350 SRW, 7.3 PSD, Crew Cab, 8' Bed, 3.55 gears (the beater, and TV)
2015 Explorer Sport 3.5L EcoBoost, AWD, and Tow PKG (Kid hauler, and ambitious TV)
2011 Shelby GT500 (only thing it pulls is G's)
2003 Jeep Liberty Limited (DD's)
1995 F-150 short wheel base (Sold)
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
[50/30 amp, I hadn't thought of at all, great point. Is dogbone just the style?
Yes, dogbone is the the style (aka pigtail)...
Amazon.com : Conntek 14315 RV 1.5-Foot Pigtail Adapter Power Cord RV 50 Amp Male Plug To RV 30 Amp Female Connector : Generator Cord Sets And Plugs : Patio, Lawn & Garden

vs..
Amazon.com : Arcon 14018 Round Generator Power Adapter, 30-Amp Female to 50-Amp Male : Generator Accessories : Patio, Lawn & Garden
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:55 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnchuck100 View Post
The adapters are available in two types. "Hockey puck" and "Dogbone". The Dogbone has a short length of cable. The hockey puck does not and will generate heat under heavy load. Heat=reduced of voltage/power.

EMS will protect your electrical system for over/under voltage, reversed hot/neutral, open ground as well as surge protection. It will kill the power to your camper if the voltage drops too low. Low voltage can damage your air conditioner.
Now I follow. Yes, short connections do generate heat. I used a hockey puck when I borrowed my mom's pop up and it did melt. I like the dogbones also, because they offer a little flexibility in awkward or tight spaces. I do plan to plug in a tester, to check for open, reverse, or hot neutrals, before plugging in the camper, but EMS is still a good idea? Do they connect interior, or at the pole? Warranty implications?
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2015 Jayco 26BH
1996 F350 SRW, 7.3 PSD, Crew Cab, 8' Bed, 3.55 gears (the beater, and TV)
2015 Explorer Sport 3.5L EcoBoost, AWD, and Tow PKG (Kid hauler, and ambitious TV)
2011 Shelby GT500 (only thing it pulls is G's)
2003 Jeep Liberty Limited (DD's)
1995 F-150 short wheel base (Sold)
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