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Old 10-13-2011, 05:32 PM   #1
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Winterizing question

Ok, i winterized my camper by draining the hot water heater, bypassing it and pumping RV antifreeze through the water system opening all faucets until pink stuff came out, including the outside shower and the toilet. I also poured some in each of the p-traps. Am i missing something? This was the first time i winterized my camper by myself and found it really easy. Also, i noticed when i bypassed my hot water heater there is about 6 in or so of tubing from the bypass valve to the hot water heater and there is a small amount of water still in it it. How do you get that water out or is it fine where it is?
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:08 PM   #2
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One thing you can do is just turn on the pump to suck the water out of the line. It won't hurt the pump to run dry for a few seconds. Then suck a little more antifreeze through the pump to ensure it's ok. In the past I have jacked the trailer up to get the standing water out to the low point drain. Sounds to me like you got all the bases covered aside from getting one of those moisture dehydrators. I've seen the ones with an element in them for about 70 dollars. I don't know how well they work but might consider one for our new trailer.
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:12 PM   #3
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I just attended a dealer winterizing seminar. One point I overlooked was the city water entry. They sugest pushing in on the check valve on the city water entry point with low pressure in the system until the pink anti freeze comes out. Another suggestion was to spray WD40 into the water heater burner tube to discourage spiders from making nests.

On water in the bypass hose open a faucet with the pump on and see if it clears.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:14 PM   #4
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You don't say whether you pulled the low point drain valve(s) and drained the water lines before pumping the antifreeze in. I hope you did this.

I always open all three HWT bypass valves when I drain the lines. Otherwise you'll still have water in the upper portion of the line that runs between the hot and cold water lines.

You should not set the HWT bypass valves to their "winterize" positions until both the tank and water lines have drained completely.

Many folks also miss this final step of the winterization process. After you have pumped the antifreeze through all the water lines:
  • Turn off the water pump
  • Open a faucet to relieve the pressure on the water lines, then close it.
  • Have someone go outside, remove the cap from the fresh water inlet and press in on the check valve that's inside the water inlet (Note: if you have a screen in your water inlet, you will have to remove it first)
  • While pressing on the check valve, have someone inside turn on the water pump. Caution: water, then antifreeze will shoot out of the water inlet. You will get wet and possibly get water and/or antifreeze in your eyes if you're standing directly in front of the water inlet while pressing on the check valve.
  • When the "pink stuff" comes out, release the check valve and allow the water lines to pressurize again.
  • Turn the water pump off when it stops running.

Why did you do this? Water and/or air remains in the vertical portion of the water line that runs up to the water inlet. This procedure allows this portion of the line to fill with antifreeze.
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:04 AM   #5
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jrusse--One other thing to do is remove the battery ( attach to a battery minder if you have one) and store in a warm place. I failed to mention this in my " night night 19h" post of the other day. Larry
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrusse View Post
Snip......Also, i noticed when i bypassed my hot water heater there is about 6 in or so of tubing from the bypass valve to the hot water heater and there is a small amount of water still in it it. How do you get that water out or is it fine where it is?
I know the line you're referring to, it's the cold water input to the water heater. What I did after by-passing and pressurizing with antifreeze, I briefly cracked open the valve to that input line to shoot a bit of antifreeze in that low lying elbow. Of course this means it will need flushing in the spring, but I feel better about having a bit of the pink stuff in that elbow.
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Old 10-17-2011, 02:06 PM   #7
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Thanks for the info all. I did push antrifreeze thru the city hook up and because of the pressure i suggest to anyone trying it to stand to the side. I opened the low point drain but nothing came out, maybe i didn't open correclty as it was hard to turn. I don't have a battery for it so i'm good there.
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Old 10-17-2011, 03:19 PM   #8
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jrusse-- If your tt has electric breaks and a break away switch , you need a battery. I f not then happy winterizing Larry
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Old 10-17-2011, 04:08 PM   #9
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Through the years (since about '84 when Mom & Dad bought their first camper) I have tried various ways to get anti-freeze out through the city water connection. I've tried w/ pressure, a little pressure, and no pressure on the water lines, pump on, pump off. It seems like no matter what I do, I end up unseeding the rubber seal around the check valve. So I decided last year to do something different with the campers. I have an extra pump that I use to pump water from a tank in the bed of the truck to the camper holding tank that needs winterized as well. I just connected that down in a jug and let it pump antifreeze through the city water connection. I didn't unseat the check valve and my water pump was winterized at the same time.
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Old 10-17-2011, 06:48 PM   #10
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Snip.......I opened the low point drain but nothing came out, maybe i didn't open correclty as it was hard to turn.......Snip
The low point drains lift up to open, not turning.
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