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Old 08-11-2014, 07:14 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by WVDusty View Post
If your chains hang a little to low just twist them a couple of times before hooking them to your TV.

X2
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Old 08-30-2014, 08:06 PM   #22
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Can I run my ac when I have my camper plugged up to a drop cord at my house? It's a heavy duty drop cord.
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Old 08-30-2014, 08:28 PM   #23
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Can I run my ac when I have my camper plugged up to a drop cord at my house? It's a heavy duty drop cord.
not recommended
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Old 09-12-2014, 02:29 PM   #24
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Wow! It's going to take awhile for all that info to sink in. You may have explained why I can't get my stove to light. I had no idea I was supposed to turn the tank on slowly. I'll try it again and see if that solves the problem.
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Old 03-13-2015, 08:35 PM   #25
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First, thanks for the kind words regarding this Newbee thread overview.

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Originally Posted by Andrewsacres View Post
Can I run my ac when I have my camper plugged up to a drop cord at my house? It's a heavy duty drop cord.
Assuming a relatively short (15 feet or so, shorter being better) #14 or #12 AWG extension cord fed from a 20 amp home receptacle there should be no problem running your single HVAC unit for a normal sized camp trailer. Most smaller trailers have a 30 amp 120 volt AC cord supply. That supply is designed to feed the HVAC unit and other conveniences in your trailer. A properly sized extension cord from a 20 amp wire size (#12 awg) receptacle should handle the HVAC unit only without problem. To be clear, that doesn't mean that you can use the toaster, hair dryer, microwave oven, etc. at the same time, but just running the the HVAC should be ok.

Not that anyone asked...

I've noticed some questions about cracks in fiberglass gelcoat panels. To be sure, if the trailer is under warranty then the problems should be brought to the dealership for repair.

For older units, a few minor cracks may be better put on a watch list to determine whether they are stable or degrading.

The gelcoat serves two basic purposes. First it provides UV and damage protection for the structural fiberglass. It also provides a smooth good looking surface for the panels.

The strength of the panels is in the random or woven resin impregnated fiberglass cloth which is not related to the gelcoat. Properly prepped and impregnated fiberglass is of itself waterproof. Minor cracks in the protective gelcoat don't necessarily mean that the panels will let water penetrate the panels.

Hairline cracks in boat deck gelcoat are fairly common. They often occur in areas of stress or places where the gelcoat thickness is a bit heavy. Most of those hairline cracks in older boats are not repaired with no negative consequence.

My point is that on an older trailer it may not be worth the effort to repair minor gelcoat cracks. Watchful monitoring may be all that is necessary. The cracks may be unsightly but are likely not anything to worry about as to structural or water leak problems.

FWIW vic
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Old 04-03-2015, 08:34 AM   #26
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From another thread.

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Originally Posted by VicS1950 View Post
Not that anyone asked...
EPDM roofing material is designed for the purpose often with 25 and 50 year life spans for the actual membrane being mentioned. Most manufacturers I've checked on indicate that coatings are not required. On TT's periodic inspection and touch up with proper sealant for questionable areas is recommended.

Be very careful with what you choose to coat an EPDM roof with. Some compounds can deteriorate the material over time. Some compounds may interfere with proper adhesion for future repairs.

The are many aftermarket coating marketing pitches which will tell you their products are necessary. Personally I wouldn't use any coatings on an EPDM roof unless specifically recommended and approved by the material manufacturer. The above particularly applies to ANY coating which contains silicone.

Contrary to aftermarket coatings hype I also do not use coating/protectant on my Hypalon inflatable rubber boats because the material manufacturers recommend no coatings.

*************

6. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BLACK EPDM AND WHITE EPDM MEMBRANE?

In addition to the oils and the polymers used to make an EPDM membrane, another ingredient is added to the mix to enhance UV resistance. In the case of a black membrane, carbon black is added, which converts UV rays into heat. With white membrane, in lieu of carbon black, titanium dioxide is typically used to reflect UV rays and prevent it from attacking the polymer.

8. DOES EPDM REQUIRE SYSTEMATIC MAINTENANCE OR ADDITIONAL COATINGS OR TREATMENT TO ACHIEVE ITS LIFE EXPECTANCY?

No. No special coating or other surface treatment is required. General maintenance in the form of good housekeeping should periodically be performed to remove debris and leaves, and to investigate the performance of other components.

12. WHAT IS THE EXPECTED LONGEVITY OF EPDM MEMBRANE?

With many EPDM installations exceeding 40 years of exposure in the field under various climatic conditions, none of the material tested has shown alarming signs of degradation. Even though it would be difficult to predict, studies have shown aged EPDM membrane as having a potential life expectancy of 50 years.

13. CAN EPDM BE COATED OR PAINTED?

Acrylic coatings are available that can be applied directly to a prepared EPDM surface. Preparation usually consists of cleaning the EPDM with a pressure washer and a detergent solution or wash. Latex-based paint products can also be used, however, the EPDM manufacturer should be contacted prior to application to ensure compatibility and continuation of warranty coverage.

General Questions | EPDM Roofing Association
***************

My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it.

FWIW. vic
A Travel Trailer TT isn't likely to outlive the 40 year service life of an EPDM roof.

Please do not coat your roof based upon your personal layman perception of what your trailer roof should look like. Listen to the experts.

vic
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Old 05-06-2015, 07:06 AM   #27
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For those who may still feel compelled to seal their EPDM roof.

Kennedy64 recently contacted Jayco.

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Originally Posted by Kennedy64 View Post
Ok I checked with Jayco, they said I have the EPDM roof and can not and do not recommend me sealing the entire roof with anything. UGHHH How can I be sure there are no pin prick type holes in the roof...
I've been trying to tell people not to seal their EPDM roof.

If there is no obvious physical damage your EPDM roof is fine. Scrub it with Spic and Span and inspect. I'm certain it will be fine though.

From another thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VicS1950 View Post
Assuming you have an EPDM roof...

This is the link/source of the selected info.

Material Questions | EPDM Roofing Association

You can scroll down there to read all the information.

********************************

4. HOW CAN THE PERFORMANCE OF EPDM BE GAUGED OVER THE LAST 40 YEARS?
With over 1 billion square feet of membrane installed worldwide, EPDM has established itself as the membrane for all climatic conditions. This is supported by various laboratory studies and actual field installations. This excellent track record is the result of unique and unmatched physical characteristics:
* EPDM has superior resistance to UV (ultraviolet) radiation
* EPDM has unmatched resistance to thermal shock
* EPDM exhibits superior resistance to cyclic fatigue
* EPDM has superior resistance to hail damage
* EPDM will not become brittle and will not shatter due to low temperature flexibility

8. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BLACK EPDM AND WHITE EPDM MEMBRANE?
In addition to the oils and the polymers used to make an EPDM membrane, another ingredient is added to the mix to enhance UV resistance. In the case of a black membrane, carbon black is added, which converts UV rays into heat. With white membrane, in lieu of carbon black, titanium dioxide is typically used to reflect UV rays and prevent it from attacking the polymer.

10. DOES EPDM REQUIRE SYSTEMATIC MAINTENANCE OR ADDITIONAL COATINGS OR TREATMENT TO ACHIEVE ITS LIFE EXPECTANCY?
No. No special coating or other surface treatment is required. General maintenance in the form of good housekeeping should periodically be performed to remove debris and leaves and to investigate the performance of other components.

11. IS THE PERFORMANCE OF THE EPDM MEMBRANE ADVERSELY AFFECTED GEOGRAPHICALLY DUE TO TEMPERATURE EXTREMES?
In laboratory testing EPDM is subject to the most severe heat aging where samples are subjected to temperatures of 240 F for 4 weeks. Also, in several studies field samples were collected from various geographic locations after years of exposure and in both cases (laboratory and field), the physical properties of the samples exceeded the original ASTM specification. Presently, there are numerous EPDM installations throughout colder regions in the U.S. (i.e., Alaska, Minnesota) as well as in the hot and humid climates of southern Florida and Texas. For the past 25 years, EPDM has been the roofing membrane of choice for many commercial and manufacturing facilities internationally. The material will not shatter in extreme, cold temperatures and remains flexible under severe thermal shock such as in dessert areas where evenings are extremely cold and days extremely hot.

13. IS EPDM UV RESISTANT?
After more than two decades of field exposure in different climatic conditions, samples collected of EPDM membrane show no evidence of crazing or cracking. As a result of the excellent UV resistance, EPDM membrane can be warranted up to 30 years.

15. WHAT IS THE EXPECTED LONGEVITY OF EPDM MEMBRANE?
With many EPDM installations exceeding 40 years of exposure in the field under various climatic conditions, none of the material tested has shown alarming signs of degradation. Even though it would be difficult to predict, studies have shown aged EPDM membrane as having a potential life expectancy of 50 years.
****************************
Regular inspection and repair is necessary as seals and fastenings may deteriorate. A Travel Trailer TT isn't likely to outlive the 40 year service life of an EPDM roof.

Please do not coat your roof based upon your personal layman perception of what your trailer roof should look like. Listen to the experts.

Properly matched Dicor products are highly regarded for touch-up and seal repairs. Eternabond tape is another favorite.

vic
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:38 AM   #28
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Noob question. My deal told me that when my TT is plugged into my TV, the battery is charging. Is this true?
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:50 AM   #29
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A small trickle when the engine is running.
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Old 05-06-2015, 10:01 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angus View Post
Noob question. My deal told me that when my TT is plugged into my TV, the battery is charging. Is this true?
Yes, but.... Folks on this site report that it is not enough to really charge the battery very much. As Norty1 said, just a trickle. IMO, the long distance and small wiring has too much voltage drop to really charge the battery.
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Old 05-06-2015, 01:31 PM   #31
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I have a small clarification/question.

In regards to twisting safety chains. They should not be twisted to shorten them but as far as I know the two chains can be braided or wrapped around each other. But an individual chain should not be twisted.

Is that correct?
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Old 05-06-2015, 02:00 PM   #32
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Good to know. Thanks!
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Old 05-06-2015, 02:19 PM   #33
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Cross the chains. The "X" in the chains will cradle the tongue of the trailer, keeping it from hitting the road in the event of a unhook. At least that was what I was always told.
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Old 05-06-2015, 02:42 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subaru297 View Post
I have a small clarification/question.

In regards to twisting safety chains. They should not be twisted to shorten them but as far as I know the two chains can be braided or wrapped around each other. But an individual chain should not be twisted.

Is that correct?
Correct: 'An individual chain should not be twisted'. It weakens the chain.

Correct: 'Chains can be wrapped around each other.' In fact, many of us here believe it is required to cross the safety chains once. It certainly seems to a good practice whether or not required by law. Crossing more than once would shorten the chains further, but should not weaken them. A better long-term solution would be to have the terminating hooks in a different link of the chain.
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Old 05-06-2015, 04:58 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmanAZ View Post
Correct: 'An individual chain should not be twisted'. It weakens the chain.

...
I intentionally avoided this discussion.

To me the "create a basket to catch" theory is a bit of a stretch. If the chains are called upon to do their thing there is not going to be straight back and consistent pull. The tongue will wander. It will also tend to run under and back out from the tow the vehicle.

I personally feel that crossing the chains puts a better stress on the chain anchor points and helps to keep hooks attached by tending to keep the tongue more in line as it tries to wander back forth.

That is one reason that I think using bungee cords to keep longish chains from dragging is a reasonable solution.

Twisting chains does weaken/de-rate them. If a rigger on any of my projects twisted a lifting chain to shorten it he/she would be put off the job. It just isn't done.

That said, I've watched two different U-Haul prep people at two different U-Haul businesses twist the chains on rented trailers to shorten them. The chains looked very over-sized so I never commented or questioned them.

In my opinion, the best answer is to use proper terminating hooks as oldmanAZ already mentioned.

FWIW. vic
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:18 AM   #36
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Another method to shorten safety chains is to use D-ring shackles or quick links.

Some info from recent thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VicS1950 View Post
Screw pin D-ring shackles will work. I've seen USA made screw pin shackles distort under load without failure. (Don't know if that applies to the typical emerging country products.) I recommend selecting a screw pin or bolt shackle, not a pin shackle that just uses a cotter pin keeper. Stainless steel may be a good option if sized correctly.

Clevis D Ring Shackles

Page 28 below

https://www.cmworks.com/Public/12058/PMC-10.pdf

I prefer them to hooks for directly connecting chains to the anchor points. S hooks have been known to jump off. I loop the shackle over the hitch anchor loop and position the pin through the proper length safety chain link. I always orient the screw pin thread to be on the lower part. A bit of Vaseline or grease on the threads keeps things from seizing.

A hook will easily fit into a D-ring shackle if that is what you want to do.

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Old 05-29-2015, 11:08 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angus View Post
Noob question. My deal told me that when my TT is plugged into my TV, the battery is charging. Is this true?
The tow's 12V supply to the trailer's battery is simply to keep the breakaway power supply topped up.

If you have kept your battery charged (plugged in, solar, etc.) you will find a fully charged battery at journey's end.

Don't expect your tow to recharge the trailer's battery after a week of boondocking.
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Old 06-06-2015, 06:16 AM   #38
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Some additional EPDM roof comments.

Quote:
Originally Posted by edatlanta View Post
The EPDM roof on my Designer was manufactured by Alpha Systems. During my last roof clean/treat it was noted that there was some "alligator skin" type cracking in some areas around the a/c units. I was concerned as this unit is approaching 5 years of full time use. I took pictures and sent to Alpha Systems and their response is below received in February 2015:

Hello Sir,

Your roof looks fine. What you are experiencing is the oxidation process that the roof membrane goes through as it ages and is exposed to the elements. It does get that Ďalligatorí skin appearance that you have. Over time the white layer will chalk and flake off exposing the black layer that is underneath. The white layer is considered cosmetic and the black layer underneath is the primary protection for your unit. Just because the white layer is going through this process does not mean the roof is going to fail, this is normal and expected. The roof is about 38 mils thick and the white layer is only the top 2 mils of this so you still have plenty of roof left.

There are roof coatings that can be painted on the roof to make it look new and white again, but typically those are only recommended once the roof starts to be more black than white. Until then just the regular cleaning is all that is necessary. If/When you do decide to recoat the roof you just need to make sure to purchase a product that is made for EPDM rubber roofs.

Some people choose not to recoat their roof and let it turn completely black, this is ok too. If you take this route you would just have to start using rubber roof conditioners to make sure the roof does not start to dry out.

Hope this eases your worries.

Thanks,

Monica McCabe
Alpha Systems, LLC.
(574) 295-5206
Fax (574)970-2703
If you decide that you need to coat your roof the comments here may help to select a product.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spoon059 View Post
I don't really recommend roof coatings at all, I would be afraid they would just hide a problem and make it harder to find.


You can buy a liquid EPDM rubber however. It is a 2 part liquid that you mix together and let it sit for a couple minutes, then can brush or roll one. It is the exact same chemical compound as your sheet EPDM. It adheres to your old EPDM and creates a new section of roof, not a "patch".


My old trailer had a tear in the rubber and soft wood. I cut out the rubber over the bad area and put new decking down over the roof. I then "painted" the liquid EPDM over the new decking and overlapped the existing rubber roof. When it cured, it was a one piece roof again with no new edges.
For more information, clicking on the blue arrow icon within any quote box should take you to the original post/thread.

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Old 08-04-2015, 08:53 AM   #39
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Trailer Safety Chains!!!

I always fasten my crossed trailer safety chains when towing. When I replace safety chains I use shackles rather than the typical OEM "S" hooks. The original hardened "S" hooks cannot be bent open for re-use. I have more faith in screw pin shackles over "S" hooks. Shackles cannot jump loose like "S" hooks may. Good quality screw pin shackles will distort before failure. The shackle allows installation into selected links for chain length adjustment.

I covet any lifting equipment in my possession which is stamped "Made in USA".

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If your included "S" hooks don't have an OEM keeper I install them with a heavy rubber band keeper across the open end. Simply slip the multiple loops of the rubber band over the chain, install the hook on the loop, and then bring the rubber band out over the open "S" end. I most often use rubber rings cut from bicycle inner tubes. The rubber over the end helps to prevent jumping off. Electrical tape would also help if rubber isn't available.

We were returning from a regatta the other day when we had our sailboat trailer jump off the hitch ball. A J/22 keel boat approx. 2700# all up with trailer. I'm convinced that I didn't have the hitch properly seated down on the ball. Our hitch clamp is a bit finicky when the hitch is lowered onto the ball. If the hitch isn't kept back while being lowered, it is possible to trap the clamp rather than have the fork be properly positioned under the ball. We were first in to the boat hoist (we won overall with no need for the last race... sorry, bragging) and I went to pick up the trailer alone while the team got the boat lifted. I don't remember specifically looking under at the trailer ball clamp position which is my normal SOP. Operator error is the most likely cause.

Anyway we were traveling on the highway at about 55 mph when we hit a big dip in the road followed by a loud bang and horrible rumbling. I slowed (not braked hard) and slid over to the shoulder with a bunch of black smoke pouring behind us.

The crossed safety chains did their job. The trailer tongue surged under the van and back out while the trailer tongue skid loop dragged along the ground. As I have said all along there was no "basket catch" of the tongue by the chains. The crossed chains did keep the trailer attached and tracking properly while maintaining control. The smoke was from the galvanized tongue skid loop being ground down flat by the pavement.

With two people we were able to lift the tongue and swing the tongue jack back under. The backup plan was to lift the tongue using the small floor jack which I always carry.

Click image for larger version

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Visual inspection of the hitch clamp and other parts showed no damage. We reconnected and continued home without further incident.

Some things I learned.

The crossed trailer safety chains with shackles did their job.

If you don't panic and hit the brakes hard, gradually slowing down allows the chains to get you safely over to the side of the road. Don't be alarmed if you see some smoke when slowing down.

The crossed chains do not at all act like a "basket".

If your rig has a tongue skid plate be certain to check that it is in place and properly fastened. For a time mine was out of place. Fortunately I had repaired it. I'm glad that I did. I'm certain that it saved further damage.

Double, triple check that your trailer hitch is properly seated and clamped on to the ball.

Always connect your safety chains.

Note: Please take any trailer chain specific discussions to another thread than this New (Bee) thread.

vic

P.S. - I was made aware that I misinterpreted the Goodyear Marathon radial "10 psi over" recommendation. It refers to 10 psi over recommended inflation, not 10 psi over sidewall pressure. Back in the days of towing with a station wagon we would run our tires over max inflation so being a bit over didn't seem out of place. I was wrong. (I need to find time to submit revision to a moderator.)
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:39 PM   #40
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Good info. Towing 40 FER first time after owning TT. Any need to secure residential fridge? Old TT had door latch. This one seems to rely on mag strips to hold doors closed. Thanks
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