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Old 05-07-2015, 09:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redenbacher View Post
The cold water goes into the top of the heater and should be on. The hot water comes out the bottom and should be also on.
Are you sure about where the cold and hot lines go I was always under the impression that the cold enters the bottom and the hot exits the top
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:21 AM   #12
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It looks wrong in your picture If the handle of a valve is in line with the water lines then you have flow if the handle isn't in line in other words the handle is 90 degrees opposite the lines then the valve is closed From the looks of the handles in the picture it appears that the handle on the left is open that is the bypass and it should be closed. The bottom handle looks like it is in the open position and that would be correct. The top handle is in the closed position and need to be in the open position. Also if you look on the sty foam you should see it marked Hot and Cold
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:22 AM   #13
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From the pictures it looks like you water heater is bypassed. The top and bottom valves should be open and the valve between them closed. Since you are in AZ I am thinking the hot water you are seeing is from your supply hose sitting in the sun. Also with the heater bypassed there may not be any water in the tank and your electric element could be burned out.
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:26 AM   #14
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Thanks for the response, bedrck46. I was playing around with the valves. The valve on the left seemed to feed into the kitchen sink. It was 90 degrees at first. When I lined it up with the hoses, it shut off the water to the kitchen sink. With that said, I think all the valves are correct?
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:26 AM   #15
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Hope this helps
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:37 AM   #16
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Thanks, I will see if I can match that picture :-)
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:41 AM   #17
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OK. I'm a visual person and that is much better. The top one is closed. That is the water inlet. Turn that one 1/4 turn so that the knob is in line with the water line. The one on the bottom is the outlet and is also closed. Turn it 1/4 turn to open. The one on the short hose connecting the two is a bypass valve. It is open now but should be closed. Turn it 1/4 turn. The last one that is attached to a short piece of clear plastic tubing is used once a year to suck RV antifreeze into the line and is closed. It should always be closed except when winterizing (which you Tempe folks may not have to do). I can't tell but it looks like the valve by the water pump is also closed. It should be open to use your electric water pump when you are not hooked to city water supply and using your internal water tank. It looks to me that the dealer did not prep the trailer as they should have. The air you experienced is normal. Your fix was correct except you need to turn that bypass valve off too.
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:43 AM   #18
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Hot DAMN!! I think that solved the problem, bedrck46!!! I pretty much matched the pictureand turned on the hot water faucet in the kitchen. First lots of air and some water came out, then the water started getting colder. Then BAM! Scalding hot water! I turned it off and turned on the cold water. That was fine as well. Checked my bathroom sink, we had hot and cold water as well!!! The true test will be a hot shower :-) Thanks for the picture and input from all y'all!!!
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:48 AM   #19
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By the way, bedrck46, where did you find that picture? I noticed the bottom picture showed some anti-freeze wording. Is that the setup it should be for winterizing your plumbing? Maybe that is how it came from the manufacturer and the dealership never told us to change the valves? If that is the case, I will let them know :-)
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:51 AM   #20
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You were correct as well, Dan! Thanks for helping out! RELIEF!!! HOT WATER!! I feel much better now.I will let the dealership know.
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