Campground Electric Service Testing

[GL243]

Just got a new Jay Flight SLX 267BHSW and am reading that I need to test campground electric service hookup before hooking up the trailer to it. Can anyone tell me what's an adequate way to do that, e.g., with a multi-meter? Or do I need to buy some sort of specific tester? Thanks for any help.

[4_Weasel]

Originally Posted by GL243

Just got a new Jay Flight SLX 267BHSW and am reading that I need to test campground electric service hookup before hooking up the trailer to it. Can anyone tell me what's an adequate way to do that, e.g., with a multi-meter? Or do I need to buy some sort of specific tester? Thanks for any help.

I use a simple plug in voltmeter to let me know if the power from the pedestal is in the good range. It is simple, easy to use and should get you started. You should be able to pick then up at any rv shop or online.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P48KLK..._qqaDAb6H0XB8G

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

[T&M_Texas]

Originally Posted by GL243

Just got a new Jay Flight SLX 267BHSW and am reading that I need to test campground electric service hookup before hooking up the trailer to it. Can anyone tell me what's an adequate way to do that, e.g., with a multi-meter? Or do I need to buy some sort of specific tester? Thanks for any help.

I guess I'm brave and just use a progressive industries EMS-PT50X Portable Surge protector. They aren't cheap. They have them for 30 AMP also. I'm curious if I should check it before I install it. But then again it should protect me if shore power isn't right. I'm not sure. So I'm going to be following this thread. The surge protector does the following.

Previous Error Code (PE)
Normal Operating Conditions (E 0)
Reverse Polarity Protection (E 1)
Open Ground Protection (E 2)
Open Neutral Protection (no power through)
High Voltage Protection (Line 1-E 3, Line 2-E 5)
Low Voltage Protection (Line 1-E3, Line 2-E 6)
High Frequency Protection (E 7)
Low Frequency Protection (E 8)
Provides Amperage Usage Reading

[wags999]

You can buy a small tester that you plug into a standard outlet, or in the case of a 30 amp plug use an adapter. It will show you open neutral reverse polarity or properly wired, with lights. Or, for complete protection use and EMS (electrical management system). Progressive seems to be the brand of choice, lifetime warranty, field serviceable and in addition to above it will monitor and protect against voltage overage and underage, shutting the power off if it is more than 10% above or below 120 volts.

It also protects against surges such as lightening strikes somewhere on the system.

Good Luck.

RV Electrical Safety: Surge Protectors vs. EMS | No~Shock~Zone

[Sundancer330]

All you need is an EMS setup, plug it in and if something is wrong it will let you know, can't get any easier than that.

[blujay40]

Originally Posted by T&M_Texas

I guess I'm brave and just use a progressive industries EMS-PT50X Portable Surge protector. They aren't cheap. They have them for 30 AMP also. I'm curious if I should check it before I install it. But then again it should protect me if shore power isn't right. I'm not sure. So I'm going to be following this thread. The surge protector does the following.

Previous Error Code (PE)
Normal Operating Conditions (E 0)
Reverse Polarity Protection (E 1)
Open Ground Protection (E 2)
Open Neutral Protection (no power through)
High Voltage Protection (Line 1-E 3, Line 2-E 5)
Low Voltage Protection (Line 1-E3, Line 2-E 6)
High Frequency Protection (E 7)
Low Frequency Protection (E 8)
Provides Amperage Usage Reading

When you plug in your EMS, it will perform diagnostics on the pedestal power and won't allow any voltage to flow until it's done. Takes about 126 seconds to do that and then you will hear it "click" when power starts to flow. If there are any issues with the power, the EMS will not allow the power to start flowing and will display error codes alerting you to the issue.

Then if at any time, the EMS detects issues such as low voltage, the EMS will cut power to your RV to protect it and go thru it's 126 second test again and won't reset until whatever issue the EMS detected to cause the cutoff is fixed.

There really isn't any better electrical protection available that I know of for your RV.

[2nOZ]

Originally Posted by Sundancer330

All you need is an EMS setup, plug it in and if something is wrong it will let you know, can't get any easier than that.

An EMS is well worth the money. Far cheaper to replace it than the entire electrical system in the camper. Pretty cheap insurance. So far this past year, I have found 2 open neutrals and 3, 30 amp receptacles loose and installed upside down.

[RedHorse1]

Another vote for an EMS, I have a 50A hard-wired from Progressive with remote display. With the main breakers OFF in the 5th I connect my power cable to the post (its breaker is also OFF). Flip the post breaker ON and watch the EMS display as it runs through its diagnostics (volts, amps, frequency and errors detected). If all is good I ask the Bride to switch the mains ON and we are in business. I mounted the display so it is easily visible as I open the door, when entering the 5th I usually pause and watch until it reports any errors it’s caught (usually none).

[RAurand]

Originally Posted by 4_Weasel

I use a simple plug in voltmeter to let me know if the power from the pedestal is in the good range. It is simple, easy to use and should get you started. You should be able to pick then up at any rv shop or online.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P48KLK..._qqaDAb6H0XB8G

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

This don't tell you what is happening directly at the 30 or 50 amp plugs.
What is happening at the 120v outlets may not be what is happening at the 30/50 amp outlets.

I plug in my Surge Guard and watch it for a little to see what is happening. Then if I am satisfied, plug in the 30 amp plug to the trailer.
I agree with what bluejay40 said!

[GL243]

Thanks, everyone, sounds like I should be leaning strongly towards getting an EMS, then, or at the very least, something with power surge protection. Another acronym to add to my ever-growing list!

[Wrascal]

NOT surge protection, EMS protection.

Progressive Industries, Inc. | Rv Surge Protection

[Jagiven]

An EMS is great, but I do not have one.

I use a 120V 30 amp to 15 amp plug adaptor along with a circuit tester similar to this one. It only gives you a look at a single moment in time. We have found a few times where we have had an open ground or another issue at the power post.

It does not protect you from surges, power spikes or anything else.

[RoyBraddy]

This is a must have carry along tool to be used for testing RV 120VAC Pedestal circuits...
I got mine from LOWES...
You will have to use the RV STEP DOWN long PLUG ADAPTER CORDS to test the RV30A and 50A SOCKETS.

I have found the OPEN GROUND condition a few times using this...


Using a standard AC MULTIMETER (LOWES $10-$20) you can measure the PEDESTAL SOCKETS before plugging your trailer shore power cable into them...

RV 15-20-30 AMP PEDESTAL SOCKET


RV 50 AMP PEDESTAL SOCKET


PLEASE use extra CAUTION while plugging the MULTIMETER PROBES into the RV SOCKETS...

Roy Ken

[us71na]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

An EMS is great, but I do not have one.

I use a 120V 30 amp to 15 amp plug adaptor along with a circuit tester similar to this one. It only gives you a look at a single moment in time. We have found a few times where we have had an open ground or another issue at the power post.

It does not protect you from surges, power spikes or anything else.

Attachment 37089

I use the same type of device and I also use a volt meter to check the voltage. In five years of camping I have found only 1 pedestal with a loose plug. I also turn off the breaker before plug in my tester and again before I connect my trailer.

I also turn off the breaker and leave it off when I leave the campsite.

[wags999]

A bigger issue than a receptacle wired incorrectly is the voltage drop on a hot afternoon when everyone gets back to their RV and kicks the AC on. .It's not unusual for voltage to be down 5 - 10% at which point it can cause issues. An EMS will shut your power down when this happens before it can cause any issue. This can happen everyday, once in a while or not at all, and if it's not monitored you will never know it is happening, unless the MW you always ran with your AC on all of a sudden blows the circuit. It is trying to pull more amps to do the same work because the voltage has dropped too low.

And EMS while expensive upfront is very cheap insurance to make sure you won't have a very expensive issue down the road. And it does protect from surge's also.

Good luck whatever you do.

[Les7h]

An EMS is great, It monitors the power 24/7 but before I plug in
I use a 50 amp to 30 amp and a 120V 30 amp to 15 amp plug adaptor along with a circuit tester and I also use a volt meter to check the voltage.
Les

[wags999]

Originally Posted by Les7h

An EMS is great, It monitors the power 24/7 but before I plug in
I use a 50 amp to 30 amp and a 120V 30 amp to 15 amp plug adaptor along with a circuit tester and I also use a volt meter to check the voltage.
Les

That works, but your EMS does the same thing. When you plug it in and click on the breaker, if the power is not up to snuff, it will not allow power to get to your RV. Under/Over 10% it shuts off, open neutral it shuts off, reverse polarity it shuts off, all before the power gets into your RV. So what your doing is fine, but it is duplicating what your EMS does automatically.

[GL243]

Thanks everyone. I have to say that electrocity has always had a fair amount of "mystery" to it (maybe I'll one day learn to spell it correctly also . . .), and this thread is reinforcing that for me! Gotta say I'm choking a bit on thinking about spending $300 or more for another accessory. It never occurred to me before that having lower than needed voltage, or amps, joules, might be a problem for any of the electronic stuff on/in a trailer, but looks like that's an issue I need to worry about now also. Anyway, I have some good info to think about now, hope to decide something before next trip "with hook-ups". Thanks again.

[wabirch]

Check out the warranty differences between brands for the EMS if you aren't sold on a Progressive. While an EMS could take the hit for your camper, it might leave you with a simple by-pass connection until the warranty exchange / repair can take place. Some consider a back-up unit in addition to their in service unit to have a spare ready.

[ETCrockett]

I use an EMS for 50 amp service. I'm often camping in areas that only offer 30 amp so I have a 30 to 50 amp adapter between shore power and EMS. When using a rented portable generator and a locking 30 amp to 50 amp adapter, the EMS detected reverse polarity and stopped the flow of electricity to the RV. Made a quick fix, retested with EMS and was good to go. The price of the EMS fails in comparison to the cost of replacing the electrical components in the RV. I was also told the warranty on the appliances is void if you don't have a some kind of surge protector between you and the shore power. Read your warranty literature to be sure. EMS is sold by multiple sources so shop around. I got some coupons from Good Sams and saved about $100 on mine from Camping World.