Electrical Help, Diagram, or Next Troubleshooting Step

[Hawoh]

Hi,

I have an issue my general utility circuit and am looking for help, a wiring diagram, or tips on my next step for troubleshooting. I'm back on the road in 2 days and no local service was available.

Trailer: 2017 Jayco 242BHSW

Issue: I lost power on my 15 AMP general circuit which feeds a series of general outlets, bathroom GFCI, fridge, outdoor outlet. I have added a diagram of the layout and current state of the circuit. Most tips pointed to the GFCI first. The GFCI is not tripped. I replaced the GFCI with a new receptacle and nothing changes. There is 1 outlet (pop-out) that functions properly which suggests to me that the breaker itself is ok. The hot wire in to the GFCI shows no voltage. No other outlet shows voltage with the circuit on.

I like pictures and videos so I have attached some visuals to help.

Video link: https://youtu.be/IQSJeQAc69U

Thanks for any help.

[Hawoh]

The circuit breaker seems to be ok.

https://youtube.com/shorts/hwnwbHmKJzc?feature=share

[Hawoh]

Circuit seems to be ok beyond the 1st junction box

https://youtube.com/shorts/a9DFdx4M37s?feature=share

[Hawoh]

After removing and replacing the breaker in the video, I briefly had voltage at the bathroom GFCI and master bunk outlets, but then it quickly went away again.

There is a loose connection somewhere in the line that I just jiggled free? The breaker could indeed be bad despite my continuity test?

[ARoamer]

If I'm following correctly, 10 outlets on one 15 amp circuit seems like a lot to me. (Amateur Electrician)
Test all of your breakers, verify all have power. A breaker has gone bad, or there is faulty wiring somewhere. Check the outlets closely where they are wired to the next and be sure connections are good and current is passing through to the next outlet. They are slapped together without much attention to detail.

>>>>>
Troubleshooting your circuit breaker is best left to a professional electrician. If you have no experience with proper electricity safety, do not do this on your own. If you are appropriately trained, here is how to test the breaker:

1. Unplug all devices from the circuit you are testing.
2. Remove the breaker box panel by removing all the screws to access the circuit breakers with your multimeter.
3. Set the multimeter to the voltage setting and plug the black wire into the common port and the red wire into the "V" port on the breaker you are testing.
4. On the breaker you're testing, take the multimeter's red probe and touch it to the terminal screw and hold the black probe to the neutral bar (with white screws) simultaneously.
5. A standard single-pole breaker will read within a few volts of 120V, while a double-pole breaker will read from 220-250V. <<<<<

[Hawoh]

Hopefully my other video links will show up soon, waiting on moderator. I thought the breaker was ok on a continuity test, but I suspect that doesn't confirm it is indeed ok.

[PaulB12]

My take:
You've got a bad connection. RV outlets are different. Just take one apart and see.

Ditch the buzzer and get your leads out. At least on the pop out plug you know you have power, you need to know if you have power coming "in" AND going "out".

In my experience breakers rarely go bad. Easy to check there are like a switch.

Kiss, keep it simple, I'd start at each breaker to check for power leaving the breaker then go to each outlet and check for power.

PaulB12

[Hawoh]

Thanks for the input - see a video link - it seems the breaker is working properly

[Hawoh]

Thanks for the tip, I'll go recepticle diving next I guess.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Hawoh

Thanks for the tip, I'll go recepticle diving next I guess.

Ask JAYCO for the schematic..

https://www.jayco.com/contact-towable-service/

[Hawoh]

https://youtube.com/shorts/a9DFdx4M37s?feature=share

[Hawoh]

https://youtube.com/shorts/QCt1imryzuI?feature=share

[Hawoh]

https://youtu.be/z6AeU0SSQic

[Hawoh]

The issue is solved ... I believe ...

https://youtube.com/shorts/lp42aVbxghM?feature=share

I did continuity testing in the entire trailer to decipher the wiring order and what was before/after the GFCI. I started on the outdoor panel which powers the fridge and is also closest to the start of the circuit. The connections were terrible. After cleaning them up and reconnecting the circuit seems to be good again.

[Hawoh]

These connections are sloppy. I don't understand why this receptacle type is used in the RV. It seems prone to a lot of error.

[BuddyRay]

They use them because they drastically cut assembly time - no wires to strip.
I've replace a bunch of mine already. It's the first think I suspect when I have a power problem.

[Bruce and Becky]

Did you hook up your new gfci receptacle correctly? You need to make sure your incoming hot circuit is on the line of the gfci (hot and neutral) and the other wires leaving on the load side of the gfci. The black wires should be on the brass colored screws and the white wires on the silver screws. Make sure not to cross the up. I hope this helps.

Bruce

[Hawoh]

Originally Posted by Bruce and Becky

Did you hook up your new gfci receptacle correctly? You need to make sure your incoming hot circuit is on the line of the gfci (hot and neutral) and the other wires leaving on the load side of the gfci. The black wires should be on the brass colored screws and the white wires on the silver screws. Make sure not to cross the up. I hope this helps.

Bruce

The GFCI was wired correctly. The problem ended up being the outlet for the fridge which is earlier (upstream of the GFCI) on the circuit. There was so little wire exposed in the compression fitting that it would only periodically work.

[Jagiven]

Glad you figured it out.

I am surprised the frig is not protected by the GFCI. I have always seen them behind the GFCI.

These campers are like rolling earth quakes, they just shake rattle and roll down the road. What works today, may not tomorrow.

[mrmom]

Originally Posted by Hawoh

These connections are sloppy. I don't understand why this receptacle type is used in the RV. It seems prone to a lot of error.

They use them because they do not need to be in a junction box. They are also a lot thinner allowing them to be used in thin wall areas.