This is likely to be an off the wall comment. All the "monkey motion" with breakers and so on might not be a problem, but why not just pull the shore power plug? That's how it works in real life camping situations. You simply don't plug in.
Using an inverter, one would not flip breakers. If there's no shore power the inverter is either manually activated, or it's tripped on by the built in transfer switch (I think your Xanrex has one.)
I get your concern with the seemingly over the top draw, but the Xanrex may not be measuring at the right spot.
First, get and install a proper battery monitor. If you plan to boondock at all...thus the inverter...don't scrimp on this, because you only get to use about half of the battery bank's supply before you must charge. In your case, 65 amp hours. Try your voltage/current test using the battery monitor, and see what's really happening.
At full tilt boogie, the inverter sucking 1200 watts from the battery, you're pulling 100 amps. Your battery can support that for only about 40 minutes. But the battery monitor will tell you if there is a HUGE load from the inverter. Your fridge should only demand about 200 to 300 watts when running, so your battery should support that load continuously for about 2 1/2 hours...about 25 amps. See calculator below.
Battery Monitor Options:
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=12+volt...f=nb_sb_noss_1
A better test. If you have easy access to the inverter, I suggest that you test the inverter to rule out problems. This is an easy test.
1. Pull the shore power plug...do NOT mess with any breakers. Leave everything as normal.
2. Manual inverter? Turn it on. Transfer switch inverter? if the inverter is on, let it do its thing.
3. If it has easy access front outlets (almost all do and yours claims to), shut OFF the inverter's output supplying the coach. You want only one load. There should be an output breaker on the back of the inverter. If not, pull the wires from the output temporarily. I think yours has an output breaker.
4. Test the inverter. Use something like an electric heater with known output. A resistive load is reliable. My ceramic heater has a 700 watt setting and a higher setting. I'd use the 700 watt setting and turn the heater on full so it draws continuously...put it outside if you have to so any thermostat on the heater does not shut it off.
5. This calculator will help.
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ele...alculator.html In the case of a 700 watt load thru the inverter, you will draw 58 amps (per hour) with that heater. You'll use 90% of the battery in one hour...58 out of 65 amp hours. This makes the test efficient and easy.
6. Check your battery monitor frequently during the test. At no point should you allow the battery to drop very much below 50% charge before terminating the test. And, if current draw is off the charts with this known load (e.g. 100 amps instead of 60 amps), your inverter might be the problem.
If you get 1 hour out of the battery thru the inverter at 700 watts (allowing for inefficiencies, parasitic loads, and so on, you are getting what you paid for - especially in battery supply. Also note that high-amp draws drain a battery more quickly. They are tested and rated at a steady 20 amp draw. So at close to 60 amps, the battery will not last quite a full hour. Watch the monitor.
Now figure the load the fridge and other loads (both 12 volt and 120 volt appliances) place on that battery and recognize that you don't have nearly enough battery to be running much on that little group 31.
The gold standard in flooded cell batteries is 4 x 6 volt golf cart batteries in series/parallel that will deliver about 225 USABLE amp hours. About 4 times what your group 31 can deliver. There are other options, e.g. LiFePo an others that are even better. But for about $500 altogether, 4 x 6 volts are a bargain that delivers about all the power you'll need...assuming you have the charging capacity to support them.
But know this. Your group 31 can't handle this job. Remember that it can run that residential fridge for roughly 2 1/2 hours of run time. Even an incredibly efficient fridge has a duty cycle greater than 10% run time. Add in lights, water pump, furnace (think 10 amps when running) and yada yada yada and your little battery will do well to make it through the night...to say nothing of 24 hours. Do the math on the fridge. 24 hours x 10% = 2.4 hours. 2.4 x 25 amps = 60 amp hours. Your battery will struggle to run that fridge and nothing else. Forget living in the camper.
Which brings us to charging. If you just love the sound of a generator, skip this part. But if you go boondocking for some peace and quiet, 6 to 8 hours of run time on your genny is no fun...for you or your beleaguered neighbors. Look into solar, and lots of it.
I have this kit on my rig.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...52ZD0WKH0X7DRC
In sunny Colorado, this can pretty much handle my day-to-day consumption.
In your case, with that residential fridge, you might want to double this charging capacity. Just attach the panels to the roof and connect the charge controller(s) straight to the battery bank. Easy peasy.
Each 100 watt panel can deliver about 5 to 7 amps per hour during peak time...2 to 3 hours midday in full sun. Let's say 5 amps per hour for 2 hours per panel. My 4 panels deliver 40 amp hours to the battery bank from about 10 AM to Noon (daylight savings time), and in the shoulder periods will deliver another 40 to 60 amp hours altogether...dawn to dusk. I'm good with 80 to 100 usable amp hours. I have a propane fridge and a much smaller camper. And any time I wan't to run a 120 volt appliance (microwave) I fire up the genny for a few minutes. 15 minutes of generator time in the AM will push at least another 7 amp hours into the battery (at the bulk charge rate...when the converter's cooling fan comes on). Not so much in the evening, because the solar already has the battery bank topped off (the converter will deliver a much lower charge rate...but maybe another amp hour or two).
In closing, if you can't detect a problem with the inverter, that's great. I suspect there is no problem. But you're going to have to amp up the battery bank a whole lot if you expect to survive in the boonies with a residential fridge. That is, after all, what the inverter is for...that and running the fridge while you're on the road and only supplying a trickle charge through the 7 pin connector from the tow vehicle. And if you don't have a sweet little Onan onboard (they're pretty quiet), you should think twice about forcing neighbors to endure the racket from a freestanding Honda or otherwise droning on for endless hours. That's a good way to make enemies.
Good luck.
P.S. Any dealer that would send your rig, equipped as it is, off the lot with a pathetic group 24 (35 to 40 usable amp hours) needs a kick in the ass. Had you said, "No, I plan on installing my own battery bank," that's another matter. The dealer could have sent you home with a used group 24 to make things work right. But that does not seem to be the case. As others have said, two group 31s would be the bare minimum. And even with roughly 130 usable amp hours available, that's not nearly enough to run a camper where the fridge alone eats nearly 65 of those amp hours.
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