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Old 02-09-2016, 08:15 AM   #11
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I would have thought there would have been some voltage drop as the resistance increased.
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:19 AM   #12
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Contact, contact, contact.
EMS will not catch a bad contact between the leads....
What happens is that a bad contact is a reduced area for the current to go through.
Depending on how big the current is, this reduced area will start to heat up and can melt everything.
The EMS will not pick that up for it's not a higher current or current loss...
That is the same principle applied to the robotic arms that solder cars body parts in the production line, but in that case the resistance and current are calculated in a such way that they are in the amount and time duration just enough to melt and "solder" the two sheet metal together.
you can have a power cable capable of 1000 amps but if you have a bad connection you can melt the connectors with 5 amps.
Always keep your leads clean and avoid connections that looks "loose".
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:19 AM   #13
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There had to be some voltage drop for sure. A volt or 2 with 25 amps headed down the hose would be enough to cause the problem. I never saw anything below 110VAC.
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:32 AM   #14
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I was using my home hookup which doesn't get used and abuse like the campground receptacles. I agree that it could have been the receptacle but dissection proved otherwise. The crimp on the black wire shown to the right of the plug was loose. I could wiggle the wire in the crimp.
One of the pitfalls of poor workmanship in the manufacture of the molded plug. You can't check anything until you destroy it.

I think everyone should perform a heat test on the plug (both ends of your power cord) whenever you use it. It should never be more than just warm to the touch. Watch for the prongs turning brown as the metal anneals from the heat in a bad connection. If the prong is scarred from arcing, use a file and wire brush to improve and reshape the metal and take off any corrosion. I use a non gritted connector inhibitor on the plugs and sockets on all my extension cords ... it may be a bit messy, but the shinny brass is a good sign.
Good Camping .......... Swampy
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:05 AM   #15
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One of the pitfalls of poor workmanship in the manufacture of the molded plug. You can't check anything until you destroy it.

I think everyone should perform a heat test on the plug (both ends of your power cord) whenever you use it. It should never be more than just warm to the touch. Watch for the prongs turning brown as the metal anneals from the heat in a bad connection. If the prong is scarred from arcing, use a file and wire brush to improve and reshape the metal and take off any corrosion. I use a non gritted connector inhibitor on the plugs and sockets on all my extension cords ... it may be a bit messy, but the shinny brass is a good sign.
Good Camping .......... Swampy
Good observation and advice Swampy. What inhibitor product do you use on your plugs and and receptacles?
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:36 AM   #16
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I had a melted plug end on our old TravelManor TT. I was in the TT and noticed that the AC compressor did not sound right. Went out to check the plug, it was just starting to melt on the HOT side. Shut the breaker off and noticed that the receptacle was loose, the HOT prong was totally black from not making a tight connection. I pulled out my 50 amp adapter checked the receptacle and it was tight. I checked the cord, wiring, cleaned up the contacts and used the 50 amp receptacle. I have been using the 50amp receptacles since then. They get a lot less usage than the 30amp receptacles.

If I had not heard the AC sounds, could have burned out the compressor motor $$$.

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Old 02-09-2016, 09:43 AM   #17
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I have been using the 50amp receptacles since then. They get a lot less usage than the 30amp receptacles.

If I had not heard the AC sounds, could have burned out the compressor motor $$$.

Don
Good observation on using the 50A adapter Mustang. I've also found that if the voltage is low using the 30A plug that the power MAY be better using the 50A adapter. Perhaps it's using the other 115VAC leg coming into the box and therefore is better.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:44 AM   #18
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Good observation and advice Swampy. What inhibitor product do you use on your plugs and and receptacles?
I use Versa-Seal by Hubbell Power Systems, Inc. model VS-8B It comes in an 8 oz. mustard squeeze bottle (I don't recommend trying to eat it, but the compound is yellow like mustard.) This stuff is great on battery terminals, too. This will even keep aluminum connections from oxidizing.

You should be able to find it at an electrical supply house or if you know someone that works for an electric utility, they can probably get you a bottle at a better price.

Good luck with the electrical ........... Swampy ... Jim Knoch
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:09 AM   #19
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Interesting stuff that Versa-seal. Not available on-line except a 12 pack on ebay. Next time I'm at an electrical supply joint I'll pick some up. Thanks for the heads up.
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