Warning(GROSS) -Plumbing FRESH Water Issue

[Noobsack]

My water smells like rotten eggs!

Scenario: I'm hooked up to my house water that is clean, fresh and tasty... I use a Camco tastepure filter run it into my trailer and when I turn on the cold water it smells great and seems like my normal water however when I turn on my hot water it smells god awful! Nearly puked and I swear it was stuck in my clothes.

Is there a way to fix that besides removing the hot water tank and lines? (i'm assuming it's some build up in my tank)

New issue as I just bought this trailer and didn't think to check the smell of the water

[stateboy]

I sanitize my water heater everytime I sanitize the lines (usually twice a year). The typical method is 1/4 cup of household laundry bleach for every 15 gallons for an over night "cook" or a 1/2 cup for a 4 hour "cook." With that said, I left a 1/2 cup recipe in the camper two days once (including the water heater) and nothing broke. I've never had an issue with the sour hot water smell but several have. Some will tell you not to sanitize the water heater with bleach too so you'll have to decide what's best. Some also use vinegar but I'm not sure the procedure. My observation is that those who get the odor say they left the water in the water heater too long without use.

[JFlightRisk]

What you are smelling is hydrogen sulfide gas It's a reaction from microbes and aluminum. That's why you only smell it on the hot water side. The water heater needs to be drained, and thoroughly flushed out. Worst case is the water heater needs to be cleaned with hydrogen peroxide, but you have to be careful and flush everything multiple times, since hydrogen peroxide is toxic. Some use vinegar, and again, it reacts with aluminum (it will dissolve aluminum foil) so don't leave it in for a long time, and flush really well.

[Lake Huron]

When I sanitize my trailer, my fresh tank is 80gal. I use 1.5 cup of bleach (little overkill) to about 5gal of water and that goes into my fresh tank and then the tank gets filled full of fresh water. Set my valves and run the tank water thru the cold side first then the hot. The hot water tank is already drained out so it's getting filled with the sanitized water first then out to the hot lines. I'll top off the fresh tank and let all that sit overnite, sometimes a solid 24hrs or more. Then drain everything back out and flush everything with fresh water. Never had any damage to the hot water tank and no rotten smell or taste.

[Noobsack]

Originally Posted by Lake Huron

When I sanitize my trailer, my fresh tank is 80gal. I use 1.5 cup of bleach (little overkill) to about 5gal of water and that goes into my fresh tank and then the tank gets filled full of fresh water. Set my valves and run the tank water thru the cold side first then the hot. The hot water tank is already drained out so it's getting filled with the sanitized water first then out to the hot lines. I'll top off the fresh tank and let all that sit overnite, sometimes a solid 24hrs or more. Then drain everything back out and flush everything with fresh water. Never had any damage to the hot water tank and no rotten smell or taste.

Thanks. I’ll do some research. Makes me feel better knowing there’s a fix.

Where do I flush/drain the tank at? Are we talking the low point drain or actually cycle it into the grey water?

[Noobsack]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

What you are smelling is hydrogen sulfide gas It's a reaction from microbes and aluminum. That's why you only smell it on the hot water side. The water heater needs to be drained, and thoroughly flushed out. Worst case is the water heater needs to be cleaned with hydrogen peroxide, but you have to be careful and flush everything multiple times, since hydrogen peroxide is toxic. Some use vinegar, and again, it reacts with aluminum (it will dissolve aluminum foil) so don't leave it in for a long time, and flush really well.

As mentioned in the post below, is there a recipe? For any options: hydrogen peroxide, vinegar or bleach?

I’m guessing I open the low drain point valve and just turn on my hose and let it flush, turn off the hose pour in “solvent” let it sit and then flush again?

[Noobsack]

Originally Posted by stateboy

I sanitize my water heater everytime I sanitize the lines (usually twice a year). The typical method is 1/4 cup of household laundry bleach for every 15 gallons for an over night "cook" or a 1/2 cup for a 4 hour "cook." With that said, I left a 1/2 cup recipe in the camper two days once (including the water heater) and nothing broke. I've never had an issue with the sour hot water smell but several have. Some will tell you not to sanitize the water heater with bleach too so you'll have to decide what's best. Some also use vinegar but I'm not sure the procedure. My observation is that those who get the odor say they left the water in the water heater too long without use.

Perfect. I'll get started on sanitizing it tomorrow

[Noobsack]

Not sure if this trailer has ever been sanitized. It's a 2019 purchased new in 5/20 off the lot and towed three thousand miles by a mom that was moving closer to her children and wanted to have a place to stay while she looked for a job/home in the area. Then had it parked in storage since 4/21 so less than a year of use. But once she parked it in 4/21 it sat until 8/21 when I bought it.

I'll hooked up the city water line and flushed the low drain after the water heater, I could smell it for a little bit really strongly but it started to fade, I should be able to put some bleach/vinegar/hydrogen proxied in there and do a few flushes and we will be back to good clean water/lines/tanks

[damammel]

On page 5 they discuss how to remove the smell. I also use the wand listed below to rinse the tank out before the start of the season and at the end while winterizing. I never have to drain it during the camping season

https://www.gulfstreamcoach.com/medi...lon-Manual.pdf

Camco Water Heater Tank Rinser-Cleanses and Removes Sediment that Collects at the Bottom of RV Water Heater, Extends Life of RV Water Heater (11691) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IBS...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[jetlag]

Pulled out the manual on my Pinnacle for the water heater. It is a Fogatti, RV instantaneous gas water heater. I am guessing they are Italian, and the manual reflects it. You would think they would hire someone who speaks proper English to write the manual. I may have to decipher the flushing procedure for this thing.

[Lake Huron]

Originally Posted by Noobsack

Thanks. I’ll do some research. Makes me feel better knowing there’s a fix.

Where do I flush/drain the tank at? Are we talking the low point drain or actually cycle it into the grey water?

There should be a drain plug at the bottom of the tank (outside) and the top brass valve with the little handle on it is the safety valve. You can open that valve also to let air in when you drain and air out when it's being filled.
I'd try the bleach mixture and let it set for a good 24 hrs first. If that dont fix the bad smell issue then I'd be looking at other recipes.

[TWP723]

It's called anaerobic bacteria reacting with the anode. I've heard about the peroxide fix but have never done it.

[craigav]

I purchased one of these to flush the water heater. Works well, but is plastic so I am not sure how long it will last.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Marine71-76]

You are not alone in this. We never had an issue with rotten egg smell in previous unit which used an anorod & we always left the water in the hot water tank between campouts. Our Pinnacle has the Atwood so no anorod. We also use a water softener. The first 2 years of the Pinnacle never had an issue then...we sanitize our system every year (bleach), we drain the hot water tank after every campout, we sanitized the water softener, including replacing the resin, added Super Iron Out (someone in the group reminded us we needed to add this to the water softener). In other words, we did everything we are supposed to do. We just spent a week camping and DW could smell it in both the cold & hot water in the kitchen & the shower. And the 1/2 bath it was really bad compared to the kitchen & shower. And not just on the 1st day and not every day.

It seems to get worse when temps exceed 90 degrees. We are going out again and the hi temps are in the low to mid-70s so will see if that makes a difference.

To sanitize we purchased this item. Although most of the reviews say it is pricey we really found it easier than funnel and bucket method. Will need to check the washers.

https://www.amazon.com/RV-Inline-San...rb_top?ie=UTF8

[norty1]

Originally Posted by craigav

I purchased one of these to flush the water heater. Works well, but is plastic so I am not sure how long it will last.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have had one for over 10 years. It stays in my water box in the camper and will last a long time if you keep it somewhere safe when not in use. Tip, I don't use the valve on it, rather I put a screw on inline valve ahead of it.

[Noobsack]

Originally Posted by Lake Huron

There should be a drain plug at the bottom of the tank (outside) and the top brass valve with the little handle on it is the safety valve. You can open that valve also to let air in when you drain and air out when it's being filled.
I'd try the bleach mixture and let it set for a good 24 hrs first. If that dont fix the bad smell issue then I'd be looking at other recipes.

I’m assuming this is what your referring to. Brass on top right and the plug in the bottom left below the regulator?

I know valves on a homes water heater appear drip after some aging or when people flush those too frequently. Is this brass valve similar or should I be able to open close the release valve without causing future issues?

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Noobsack

I’m assuming this is what your referring to. Brass on top right and the plug in the bottom left below the regulator?

I know valves on a homes water heater appear drip after some aging or when people flush those too frequently. Is this brass valve similar or should I be able to open close the release valve without causing future issues?

You "should" be able to open and close the relief valve without issues, however sometimes after doing so they may leak. If that happens (leaks) then you need to open and close it several more times to stop the leak, if you end up not being able to stop it from leaking then it needs to be replaced anyway. I find that opening and closing it a few times per year keeps it in good shape, I suspect most that leak are old or haven't been opened in a long time and has build up on the inside of it that allows it to leak.

The drain plug is the lower left, mine is plastic, in any case that is what I open to flush out the water heater and usually do so once a year. I would do it more often I suppose if I had odors from the hot water. ~CA

[damammel]

The link for the manual I posted above will walk you through how to flush it and reset the air gap after draining. It’s all in the manual.

[Isaacs]

Originally Posted by Noobsack

I’m assuming this is what your referring to. Brass on top right and the plug in the bottom left below the regulator?

I know valves on a homes water heater appear drip after some aging or when people flush those too frequently. Is this brass valve similar or should I be able to open close the release valve without causing future issues?

Be sure to open a hot and cold faucet somewhere in your trailer before you unscrew the drain plug or you may get a face full of stinky water if there's pressure in the system.

[RogerR]

I had the same smell when I left water in the water heater in how weather for 2 or 3 weeks. All I did was flush it out with fresh and the lines then I filled and ran it to hot for a few hours and then flushed it again. Never had a problem since.
Always drain it when we get back home or even as we leave the last camp before home. I just use the low point drain and not the one on the water heater. I changed it over to an electric water element.