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Old 02-21-2016, 05:19 PM   #11
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That's a pretty healthy payload for a half ton. Cat scale is only way to know for sure, but I think your truck can handle it (although 3/4 would be better for one that long imo, especially if you have a large family or put a lot in the bed while towing)
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:58 PM   #12
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Camper and luv2, excellent results. Thanks for posting! It's the difference between knowing and KNOWING your weights.
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:58 PM   #13
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That is the payload directly from the door tag. I don't put much in the truck except for the the family which is 4 including my mother in law. Also I understand that payload accounts for driver and full tank of gas but others are telling me different. I will more than likely upgrade the TV in 2 years but until then it's this configuration if I choose the 28bhbe. Which is most likely the one. It's very concerning some of th TW that I have seen posted considering they say it's 650# in the brochure.
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:19 PM   #14
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I would guess loaded and wet tw to be more like around 1000lbs...
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick87SS View Post
Hey all. We are also interested in the 28bhbe but have a 1/2 ton1500 Silverado. Tow cap of 9200# and payload of 1730. I have the equalizer 4 point with sway control as my hitch setup and a brake controller. I looked at the yellow sticker on the trailer and it states 6970# with propane. We don't plan on doing any dry camping so we won't be carrying water and I honestly figure around 8000# loaded. I do not own the trailer yet so going to the CAT scales is not in the cards right now. I know I will probably be near the top of my payload limit. I have been asking every where about this trailer and I am getting opinions all over the place. Do I have enough truck to do this?! I had previously been towing an Aspen Trail 2810bhs but a tree fell on that and here we are😔 Please help!!!
I'd love to tell you that you'll have a great setup and feel like you can go anywhere, because I had hoped for the same thing. But as I shared in my earlier post, while our GMC Sierra 1500HD can pull the 28BHBE, it is not an ideal situation. We live in Michigan where it's pretty flat on the whole, and our truck does just ok. I have to drop into 3rd gear however almost all the time, so our mileage drops down to about 8 or so MPG and the truck does work bit harder. But it does it ok. That said, I wouldn't take our setup to a mountain area because I think it would be a bit challenging on inclines that can occur in those regions. That's been a bit discouraging because we'd like to travel beyond Michigan and just don't feel comfortable doing so with our 1500HD. So this year I have an opportunity to upgrade to a 2500HD Duramax and am going to proceed because I want a more comfortable pulling experience.

The thing you have to remember, which you'll read all over this forum, and others like it is, is it possible.....yes. But comfortable and the ideal setup for the safest towing experience you can have, not really. I know that isn't what you want to hear, but it's a reality, and I speak from experience with a similar setup.

Here would be my suggestion...if you love the 28BHBE floorplan, which we do to, get it, try your truck for a season and do so with the understanding you may just need to upgrade your tow vehicle at some point. As long as you are ready to do that if necessary, you're within the towing limits so what's to lose? You may find it pulls good for you and you won't need to upgrade.
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Old 02-21-2016, 09:36 PM   #16
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Slick,

While you may not put a lot in the truck bed, what is the weight of the family as that could be a wide range?

As for the "brochure" tw, it is without the propane tanks or a battery on the tongue. That will add ~160lbs for 2-30 lb tanks and a battery. 650+160=810lbs before loading the trailer! Depending on how much you put in the pass through, that could add a fair amount to the tw. Grill, bag chairs, ez-up's, extension cords, water hoses, etc add up quickly.

The longer the wheelbase a tv has, the more stable (generally) towing will be. If the family weight isn't on the heavier side, and you don't load a ton in the pass through, you may be ok pending where you are located. Lots of mountains, wide open areas with a lot of crosswind, etc...

Luv2drum,

Not sure if you have the 3.73 or 4.10's, but having the 4spd vs a 6spd trans is a night and day difference. Being in Lansing not sure if you ever head north on I75 by West Branch, but towing ~7200lbs with our '10-1500 CCSB 5.3/6spd/3.42 4x4 had no issues there. 4th gear was just ever so slightly slowing down, but once the trans dropped into 3rd I could have accelerated to any speed I wanted. Same with our '13 2500HD 6.0 towing ~9klbs at that time up the same incline just north of West Branch. 4th was just not quite enough just like the 1500, but once in 3rd we walked up without issue, having to watch my speed.

How does your trailer tow? I ask because it seems like you are a little light on the tw at 760lbs ("gross tw- wd bars latched). With a loaded trailer weight of 8100lbs it seems that your tw would be more in the range of ~970lbs- ~1200lbs (12-15%).
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Old 02-21-2016, 10:17 PM   #17
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I need help here to understand a little more how you get your tongue weight .I think I got it all wrong.

The way I understood what I've read somewhere in the past is that you have to take the total of the weight on the front and the rear axle of your truck when coupled to the tt but without the WDH bars engaged. So in your case its : 7360

Then you deduct the TV gross weight, in your case : 6600

So I think the tongue weight is in your case : 760 and not 980

To get to 980 I think you use the rear axle weight on the TT not coupled, and the rear axle weight again now coupled with the WDH transfer bars in place. I am wrong ?

I tought that I had all that figured out on my trailer but your post got me all confuse again LOL

So should we take just the weight of the rear TV axle with and without the TT to determine the tongue weight and should we take the weight numbers with the WDH engaged or not ? Thanks a millions guys

Sorry for the confusinf Frenchglish from Quebec




Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
OK, so I finally got a chance to weigh everything... Here we go:

Tow Vehicle = 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 CC, 5.3L LMG, 2WD, 3.42 (HD Tow Package)
GVWR=6,800; GAWR FRT=3,650; GAWR RR=3,950

Travel Trailer = 2014 Jay Flight 28BHBE
GVWR=9,250; Yellow Sticker=7,049

Weigh 1: Truck with full gas and me.
Steer Axle: 3300
Drive Axle: 2300
Total: 5600
Add DW, Wondermutt, misc belongings = 300
Est. Total = 5900

Weigh 2: Truck with TT connected, WDH bars disengaged
Steer Axle: 2900
Drive Axle: 3680
Trailer Axle: 6660
Total: 13240

Weigh 3: Truck with TT connected, WDH bars engaged
Steer Axle: 3200
Drive Axle: 3260
Trailer Axle: 6780
Total: 13240

Results:
Trailer Weight: 7640
Tongue Weight: 980 (/7640=12.8%)
TV GVW w/TT: 6760

Notes:
I'm a little surprised at how much under my GAWRs I am. The trailer is a bit lighter than I expected, but that's fine. That makes the tongue a bit lighter than expected, which is really good. I'm pretty close on GVW in the truck, but once I burn some gas, that gets better We don't put any gear in the truck. I need to tweak the hitch to add 100 lbs to the front axle to get it back to where it is unloaded, but after initial setup using a tape measure on the fenders, I'd say that's pretty good.

The towing experience with this truck and trailer is generally positive. If I'm level, I can pull comfortably at 65 mph and get about 10 mpg. Virtually no sway issues aside from the occasional wiggle from a cross wind or a big rig passing. In the hills, I drop to 60 mph or even 55 and spend most of my time well below 3000 RPM; fuel economy drops to 6-8 if it's really hilly and/or while towing into a good wind. My transmission has never been higher than 190 degrees while towing.

Overall, I'm pleasantly surprised, and very happy that now I KNOW what my weights are.
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:25 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by need-a-vacation View Post
Luv2drum,

Not sure if you have the 3.73 or 4.10's, but having the 4spd vs a 6spd trans is a night and day difference. Being in Lansing not sure if you ever head north on I75 by West Branch, but towing ~7200lbs with our '10-1500 CCSB 5.3/6spd/3.42 4x4 had no issues there. 4th gear was just ever so slightly slowing down, but once the trans dropped into 3rd I could have accelerated to any speed I wanted. Same with our '13 2500HD 6.0 towing ~9klbs at that time up the same incline just north of West Branch. 4th was just not quite enough just like the 1500, but once in 3rd we walked up without issue, having to watch my speed.

How does your trailer tow? I ask because it seems like you are a little light on the tw at 760lbs ("gross tw- wd bars latched). With a loaded trailer weight of 8100lbs it seems that your tw would be more in the range of ~970lbs- ~1200lbs (12-15%).
I have the 3.73 I believe as that was stock, however I'm not sure if the prior owner did a swap. I know he pulled a small 5th wheel with the truck, and the MPG's, along with the speedo being a bit off, seem to point to him maybe doing a swap on the rear, but I don't know for sure. Not sure about the TW, just sharing exactly what the CAT scales showed. And yes, the 6 vs 4 speed may do better, I'm just sharing my experience. Again, my truck can pull the 28BHBE, and in MI (yes I take 75 once I get off 127 heading north) it does OK. But I wouldn't take it across the country. I actually put a ProPride hitch on last year as well, hoping to make it a more comfortable pull, which while it did eliminate the sway and improve the feel, it didn't obviously do anything to help the power of the truck. I love my 1500HD truck, but I own it to pull a trailer, so I'm excited to upgrade to a 2500HD Duramax shortly, with a 12,000lb tow capacity, and enjoy the extra power.
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:31 AM   #19
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Homer,

It sounds like you mixed up the two seperate posts from Camper Bob and Luv2drum!!! Lol You quoted Bob, but threw in Luv2drum's numbers.

You do take the total of the truck axles with the wdh unlatched - truck only weight for the tw. Bob has a tw of 6580-5600=980lbs tw. Luv2drum has 7360-6600=760lbs tw.

Hope this helps!!!!

Luv2drum,

I figured you just headed straight north. Only asked about West Branch area because there is a steady incline just north of there. We have only towed our trailer as far as S. Higgins. One of these days we will get to the TC area with it, or further north.

Try adding some tw to the trailer. Just seems like you are on the low side by your numbers. And if you had a slight sway issue before the propride, it seems to back the numbers up. Glad to hear you like the pp!!! Friends have a Hensley and love it!!!

Congrats of the future new HD!!!! Do you think you will ever get a bigger trailer after you get the truck? I ask because if so, going with the diesel the 2500HD's can run out of payload, usually even wth smaller 5vers. Look into a 3500HD SRW, should be very similar in price to the 2500HD with the same options. Not sure if it's the same still, but for the '13 & '14 trucks the 3500 was actually $3-400 cheaper if I remember right when comparing the exact same options!!! Reason is the hitch package (hitch, locking rear, tbc), tow mirrors, and can't recall what else was standard on the 3500, but optional on the 2500....

Good luck on the new truck!!! Hope it is a Flint born truck!!! Lol The truck plant is not to far from me!!!
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:03 AM   #20
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Lots of good stuff here already, kinda feel like I'm a little late to the party.

IMO, if you're worried about whether the OEM included the driver and fuel in their calculations, you're too close. If you're worried about whether your hitch will put you over, you're too close. If you're worried about how to load your trailer so as not to get over a certain tongue weight, you're too close.

The only other bit of advice I can offer is that just because it looks good on paper, doesn't mean it's going to be good going down the road. I was technically good on paper, but never really happy with how my truck towed. I also had some pretty high transmission temps in the GMC that made me a bit uncomfortable. Call it an "expectation gap"; my expectation and reality were just a little too far apart for my comfort level.

We made it work for a while, and for where we were going, it was okay. Not great, but just okay. We were safe, but towing wasn't fun for me, and there's no way I was going to let DW do it.

So I will tell you that if you're comfortable towing at the margin, that's fine, that's your business. As long as it's safe going down the road, I have no issue with that. OTOH, if you have any intention to add weight eventually (which was a reality I had to face with a new child coming along, and yes, my predictions were correct) then you should be ready to step into more truck. Whether that's an F-150 with Max tow and Max payload or a 3/4T truck, gas or diesel, whatever...

I'm VERY happy with the move I made, I only wish I had listened better at the beginning; I could have saved myself a lot of headache, and probably a small pile of money!

One more thing: you don't need the actual trailer to make an educated decision based on CAT scale weights. You already have the truck, so load the family up, fill up the tank and make a pass over the scale. Take that number and subtract your GVWR from the sticker in your door jamb; that's your available payload. If you do it right and weigh your steer axle separate from the rear axle, you can even know what you have left for rear GAWR. The Jay Flight 28BHBE has a GVWR of 9250 lbs; 15% of that is 1387.5 lbs. If you have enough available payload as figured from your trip to the scale to cover that 1387 lbs, I'd say you're probably good to go on paper.

Bottom line is that it's up to you. Just make sure you're safe and you won't get judgement from me. I'll tell my story every chance I get in the hope that others don't make the same mistake I did, but I understand what it is to have to "run what you brung". We all have different parameters within which we must live.
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