Loose Receiver

[Texdan25]

Originally Posted by Screwby

100% would work. It just needs a piece of steel to take up the gap between the hitch silencer plate and the square hitch tube. I can’t even relay how much better it pulls. I had no idea that annoying clunking and rattling was letting the camper buck and jiggle so much. Much better “seat of the pants” experience.

I assume you're using a WHD too right? I'm surprised it makes much of a difference since a TT puts over 600 weight on the hitch. I could understand it with a boat but a TT?


Also went back and looked at your photo, with that setup it appears welding the adapter would not even be necessary since the silencer is pulling down on the hitch shank so both the shank and adapter are being pulled down against the bottom of the truck hitch. Is that correct? Thanks.

[bankr63]

Wondering if anyone has used the Gen-Y shown on e-Trailer?
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Anti-...25-GH-033.html
Just saw this browsing through now, and unlike the others, I think you might be able to mount this one semi-permanently to the shank. Would make removal a lot easier IMO.

Why is it every time I log into this site I find something else I never knew I needed so desperately!!

[JFlightRisk]

This shows for the hitches using the shank adapter. A lot more $$$, but is for that specific set up. https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Anti-...x/BX88312.html

[Texdan25]

Originally Posted by bankr63

Wondering if anyone has used the Gen-Y shown on e-Trailer?
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Anti-...25-GH-033.html
Just saw this browsing through now, and unlike the others, I think you might be able to mount this one semi-permanently to the shank. Would make removal a lot easier IMO.

Why is it every time I log into this site I find something else I never knew I needed so desperately!!

I don't think this one would work for my application since I have an adapter going into a 2-1/2 hitch so this would attach inside the adapter but the outside of it would still rattle around inside the 2-1/2" truck hitch.

[Screwby]

Originally Posted by Texdan25

I assume you're using a WHD too right? I'm surprised it makes much of a difference since a TT puts over 600 weight on the hitch. I could understand it with a boat but a TT?


Also went back and looked at your photo, with that setup it appears welding the adapter would not even be necessary since the silencer is pulling down on the hitch shank so both the shank and adapter are being pulled down against the bottom of the truck hitch. Is that correct? Thanks.

Yes the gusset on the hitch hits the plate on the hitch silencer, I lucked out there. Otherwise I’d have needed a shim. I thinks it’s much more stable with two points of contact on the hitch.

The trailer is only putting constant pressure down when sitting still or driving perfectly flat. When driving, especially over rough roads, potholes, speed bumps, or just highways that have “wavy” surfaces the trailer moves up and down and side to side. Anytime the truck is going up and the trailer is going down or vice versa there is wiggle. I’m running weight distribution but it doesn’t help with sudden movements causing receiver slop. With your weight distribution hooked up you can drive down an inclined driveway and when you reach the bottom the truck evens out but the trailer is still going downhill. Your bars will be doing nothing essentially until the whole system is level again. That’s why you can relieve pressure off the bars when you jack the rear of the truck up with the trailer jack. If you have clunks or slop in your receiver, this is the ticket for cheap.

[Texdan25]

Originally Posted by Screwby

Yes the gusset on the hitch hits the plate on the hitch silencer, I lucked out there. Otherwise I’d have needed a shim. I thinks it’s much more stable with two points of contact on the hitch.

The trailer is only putting constant pressure down when sitting still or driving perfectly flat. When driving, especially over rough roads, potholes, speed bumps, or just highways that have “wavy” surfaces the trailer moves up and down and side to side. Anytime the truck is going up and the trailer is going down or vice versa there is wiggle. I’m running weight distribution but it doesn’t help with sudden movements causing receiver slop. With your weight distribution hooked up you can drive down an inclined driveway and when you reach the bottom the truck evens out but the trailer is still going downhill. Your bars will be doing nothing essentially until the whole system is level again. That’s why you can relieve pressure off the bars when you jack the rear of the truck up with the trailer jack. If you have clunks or slop in your receiver, this is the ticket for cheap.

SOLD! Gonna get one right away and figure out how it can fit, I have never thought about 'receiver slop' before, will be interesting to see if I notice a difference once I make the change. THANKS!