2006 Jayco class C Heater

bucko · 01-09-2023, 05:34 AM

There is not (that I can find) a separate thermostat for my heater. I have one in the back bedroom, which controls a ceiling mounted fan and vent.

The remote control A/C in the main room appears to be the Thermostat to control both the A/C and heater that I can tell(?). I have the propane gas valve opened. I have 1/2 tank of propane. The stove top and oven work off of propane, and they work.

If I set the temp on the remote to 68, is the heat supposed to kick on when the room is cold? How does the remote know if the temp setting is for A/C verses heat?

My first Jayco was a tow behind hybrid, and it had a thermostat for the heater by itself on a cabinet; the A/C had overhead controls attached to the overhead A/C unit.

The A/C works great, but I'm heading over to Daytona for the 24 hours of racing, and it gets cold at night! This would be the first time in using this heater in the class C.

I've watched U-tube vids, but nothing seems to explain how to get the heat to work. I've inspected the heater (outside behind the cover) itself, and all looks clean and operational.

Grumpy · 01-09-2023, 06:46 AM

There should be a switch marked Heat/Cool unless the original owner swapped out the thermostat.

If you could post a pic that would help.

bucko · 01-09-2023, 11:23 AM

If I do not see a switch, I'll post a pic. I've always turned on the A/C via the remote control. I will look for a wall mount thermostat.

In my first post, I mentioned a thermostat, but I don't see one in the main room, just a remote control used to operate the A/C.

Grumpy · 01-09-2023, 01:32 PM

2006 or 2016? 2006 didn't use remotes.

bucko · 01-10-2023, 04:16 AM

It's a 2006. Now I'm suspecting this A/C was a changeout from a previous owner. When I bought it used a couple of years ago, it's house solenoid was removed and bypassed, the house battery did not charge when the vehicle was running, and several other small things that have since then been corrected to OEM by me.

Now on to the heater. Were 2006 Jayco class C heaters always operated by a wall mounted thermostat? Where was this thermostat's location? This would give me a start as to look for wall plate/patches that may have been covered up.

Grumpy · 01-10-2023, 07:54 AM

The thermostat would have been on an inside wall/partition but the exact location varied by floorplan. There wouldn't be a cover plate since the thermostat was screwed directly to the wall and would have a 3/4"-1" hole behind it.

craigav · 01-10-2023, 09:02 AM

I don't remember which Jayco you have Bucko, but on mine the thermostat is located where I placed the RED star on this image. ~CA

bucko · 01-10-2023, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by craigav

I don't remember which Jayco you have Bucko, but on mine the thermostat is located where I placed the RED star on this image. ~CA

I have the Greyhawk model. My floor plan differs, in that I do not have a sleeper over the cab. I have the J-Steel Sofa/sleeper like this floor pan, but no dinette. The fridge is in this location. Then a shower. Where your floor plan shows the refridge, I have the kitchen sink and micro. Where your shower is, I have the toilet and sink (LAV). On that wall, there is the holder for the wireless remote used for the A/C operation.

I will see if I have a wall thermostat somewhere on a wall in the main quarters. There has to be one, as I do have a heater, with floor vents below the main sink for sure, plus the heater unit outside with an access door and outside vent.

Grumpy · 01-10-2023, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucko

My floor plan differs, in that I do not have a sleeper over the cab, I have a pull out couch against the slider side (behind drivers cab seat), then the fridge to this pull out sleepers right side (when sitting on this couch/pull out sleeper).

But the thermostat should still be in the same general area if your bath and bedroom are similar.

craigav · 01-10-2023, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucko

My floor plan differs, in that I do not have a sleeper over the cab, I have a pull out couch against the slider side (behind drivers cab seat), then the fridge to this pull out sleepers right side (when sitting on this couch/pull out sleeper).

Which model do you have (Greyhawk is a line of Jayco's but they also have model numbers, mine is the 31SS)? Another thought I used once for something else was to search RV Trader or similar websites for the exact (or close) model you have. Many ads have lots of pictures and by looking through those images you may find an interior image that shows the thermostat on a unit for sale. Short of that, and if you are missing the thermostat, you could install one in a location that will not be overly affected by the heater outlets and yet close enough to run new wires to the furnace. In fact, if you start at the furnace you may see the thermostat wires and can trace them to ... where ever you can trace them to.

~CA

bucko · 01-10-2023, 01:48 PM

It's a 27 DS. After searching awhile on the Jayco web site, I found its floorpan under 2005, and not 2006...but here it is (to the right of the kitchen sink is a small wall (between sink and bathroom) where the remote control holder for A/C is located:

craigav · 01-10-2023, 02:00 PM

I would remove the remote holder and see if there is a hole in the wall where wires for the thermostat were once located. I would also check all around for anything that could be covering such a location. Could it be that the remote controls both the A/C and the furnace? Perhaps the remote was added by a previous owner... or the A/C was replaced and the remote only controls the A/C. I would likely just install a RV 12v thermostat for the furnace as from what you have shared, it appears to have been removed by a previous owner. ~CA

bucko · 01-10-2023, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by craigav

I would remove the remote holder and see if there is a hole in the wall where wires for the thermostat were once located. I would also check all around for anything that could be covering such a location. Could it be that the remote controls both the A/C and the furnace? Perhaps the remote was added by a previous owner... or the A/C was replaced and the remote only controls the A/C. I would likely just install a RV 12v thermostat for the furnace as from what you have shared, it appears to have been removed by a previous owner. ~CA

This is what I suspect (a removed thermostat from the previous owner) based on what this owner did with the coach solenoid removal that you assisted me with!

I have removed the remote holder and relocated it awhile back, as I did not like the holders location over the sink initially. There were only two screw holes at its previous location that held the holder. My wife had me move it, as she wanted a small towel holder where it was.

If I cannot locate a thermostat, I'm going to have to see if I can trace the thermostat wires from the heater itself (boy, can't wait to do that...), or hope perhaps that someone with an early model DS 27 can chime in with where their thermostat is/was located.

I'm searching the web in hopes I can find pictures (old dealers that were selling these new or used) of a thermostat on the wall.

I do have a knife rack on a wall in the kitchen area; maybe it covered the thermostat hole. Could I be so lucky?

craigav · 01-10-2023, 02:28 PM

Bucko rhymes with Lucko... so maybe.

bucko · 01-11-2023, 03:56 AM

Got home, and checked the model of my overhead A/C unit. Its a Carrier AirV. Good news is that it has a heat pump within it along with the A/C. It also has a 'Furnace' mode which looks like it will fire up the propane heater when the outside temps get below 43 deg.

It's this 'Furnace' mode that I think will fire up the propane heater. The remote control has this mode that I can select, or just select heat and let it run off of the built in heat pump and switch to furnace if the temps fall.

I've attached two docs in case anyone else on this site runs across this roof top unit.

The bad news is that carrier no longer sells RV units, but from what I've read on the web, most parts are still available for service, along with the Coleman A/C units have parts that work with the Carrier unit.

I guess I could always remove the wire leads from the control panel of the Carrier units 'Furnace' connection and run them to a dedicated thermostat on a wall if this Carrier fails and I change it out for just an A/C unit only.

bucko · 01-11-2023, 05:01 AM

So CraigAV, you've been very helpful to me in my past in getting the house battery disconnect/connect wiring back to par. I ask yet another favor...

I'd prefer to separate the propane heater from this Carrier V unit. Why? The site I'll be going to at Daytona will not be a full hookup, so the overheat A/C or its heat mode unit won't work unless I run the generator non stop overnite. My reasoning is that I can run the propane heater off of 12V for its igniter (and fan?), and run the generator at night for just a few hours to keep the house battery charged.

Can you tell me based on the attachments I've added in the previous post, which wires I can remove from the Carrier V overhead A/C's control board for its "furnace mode" connection (which I assume is the propane heater), and then connect to a simple thermostat? I assume I would also need 12V and ground(?) leads for the wall mount thermostat as well? Can you recommend a wall mount thermostat to buy for this?

I'm not worried about the Carrier V unit's ability to not produce heat off of its heat pump function, as I've only ever used it for it's A/C function; I've never set it on its heat mode.

craigav · 01-11-2023, 10:44 AM

From looking at your pdf files, it appears that the A/C unit "may" be wired to control the furnace. They make a distinction between "HEAT" and "Furnace" with heat being what the Heat Pump itself can (should) do vs the propane furnace. However, in one diagram it stated that the furnace control is optional which means that it may have never been wired to control the furnace. If so, the "mode" control on the remote should allow for furnace operation instead of heat.

I am with you though and would prefer the have the furnace on its own thermostat. Installing a thermostat to the furnace is very simple with the most challenging aspect regarding the install is if you need to run the thermostat wire in an interior wall. The furnace itself (most I have seen) only need two wires to control the thermostat and you can get a two wire heat only thermostat which is what I suggest (like the one attached). Also, while most thermostats are on an interior wall around shoulder level, you could mount it lower such as on a cabinet facing near the kitchen sink as mounting it there should (may) be a much easier install in regards to running the thermostat wire. When mounting a thermostat low like this, you likely will need to set it lower as the heat rises which means the heat certainly could be much warmer at your head level vs ~3' above the floor. (also be sure not to install it directly above a heater outlet)

To install, you need to determine the furnace make and model you have and pull down the installation docs if you can find them. Short of that, there is usually a 4 terminal connection 1-2-3-4 where 1-2 are the 12v dc + and - and 3-4 are the control wires that you would run to the thermostat. The furnace control is simply like a on-off switch for a light bulb where when 3-4 are connected (shorted to each other) the furnace turns on and when disconnected the furnace turns off. What I would suggest is if there is (which is likely) wires already on the 3-4 terminal to simply remove them and cut away the copper conductor back to the insulation area and tape them with electrical tape and place them out of the way somewhere secure and then run a new thermostat wire. (unless you can find the original thermostat wires in a wall perhaps)

This one uses batteries, there are others that are completely mechanical, I suspect this one would be more accurate however I would be certain to keep a spare set of batteries just in case your batteries went out on a cold night. (I would bet the batteries would last a long time though, perhaps a year or so) https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TH1..._t2_B000BQWADS

Here is a standard heat only basic RV thermostat which does not require batteries. I suspect it would work well for you however, I also suspect that the swing would be higher between on and off. A higher swing temp isn't necessarily bad as the furnace will turn off and on less often, a closer swing temp will keep the temp in the RV closer to the set point, but the furnace will turn off and on more often... I would likely purchase the digital style for the more precise control and just make sure I have extra batteries... perhaps both the remote and this digital thermostat use the same battery size batteries anyway. ~CA

https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-1611...3450172&sr=8-5

bucko · 01-11-2023, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by craigav

I am with you though and would prefer the have the furnace on its own thermostat. Installing a thermostat to the furnace is very simple with the most challenging aspect regarding the install is if you need to run the thermostat wire in an interior wall. The furnace itself (most I have seen) only need two wires to control the thermostat and you can get a two wire heat only thermostat which is what I suggest (like the one attached).

To install, you need to determine the furnace make and model you have and pull down the installation docs if you can find them. Short of that, there is usually a 4 terminal connection 1-2-3-4 where 1-2 are the 12v dc + and - and 3-4 are the control wires that you would run to the thermostat. The furnace control is simply like a on-off switch for a light bulb where when 3-4 are connected (shorted to each other) the furnace turns on and when disconnected the furnace turns off. What I would suggest is if there is (which is likely) wires already on the 3-4 terminal to simply remove them and cut away the copper conductor back to the insulation area and tape them with electrical tape and place them out of the way somewhere secure and then run a new thermostat wire. (unless you can find the original thermostat wires in a wall perhaps)

This one uses batteries, there are others that are completely mechanical, I suspect this one would be more accurate however I would be certain to keep a spare set of batteries just in case your batteries went out on a cold night. (I would bet the batteries would last a long time though, perhaps a year or so) https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TH1..._t2_B000BQWADS

Here is a standard heat only basic RV thermostat which does not require batteries. I suspect it would work well for you however, I also suspect that the swing would be higher between on and off. A higher swing temp isn't necessarily bad as the furnace will turn off and on less often, a closer swing temp will keep the temp in the RV closer to the set point, but the furnace will turn off and on more often... I would likely purchase the digital style for the more precise control and just make sure I have extra batteries... perhaps both the remote and this digital thermostat use the same battery size batteries anyway. ~CA

https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-1611...3450172&sr=8-5

I got home a few minutes ago, and checked the manual for my propane furnace. Sure enough, the schematic shows the 4 terminals you described, where 2 of them are the 12V and ground, and the other two are for the thermostat. I'm guessing the control panel of this Carrier Air V overhead A/C model have the furnace thermostat leads, and I'll find that the two posts at the propane furnace will have these leads as well The color code will verify this.

So, I'll be doing some findings on Friday.

I think this Carrier A/C unit was special ordered and installed either at the factory, or was dealer installed. If it was dealer installed, they did a great job of covering up any wall hole "snaking of wire". I cannot find any evidence of a factory heater thermostat anywhere. Could this have been special ordered and done during a factory build? I even have the original owner/operating manual for this Carrier unit.

Thanks for the help. I have to meet up with you one of these days!

craigav · 01-11-2023, 04:05 PM

Makes sense, perhaps you can determine the age of the A/C with a data code or serial number. If factory installed then certainly there may have never been a wall mounted thermostat.

One thing that may be in the docs you shared but I didn't see, is if the remote thermostat would actually work without 120v power going to the A/C. If the circuit board runs on 12v battery power for the remote and the furnace relay then you could perhaps use the remote especially if there are thermostat wires in the A/C that go to the furnace already. My belief though is that without 120v going to the A/C that it wouldn't control the furnace which defeats the whole concept of running a few days on 12v battery power only. In that case, I would add a thermostat anyway just to be able to run on battery only and not worry with troubleshooting the A/C to furnace wiring and the remote control. ~CA

bucko · 01-12-2023, 04:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by craigav

.... My belief though is that without 120v going to the A/C that it wouldn't control the furnace which defeats the whole concept of running a few days on 12v battery power only. In that case, I would add a thermostat anyway just to be able to run on battery only and not worry with troubleshooting the A/C to furnace wiring and the remote control. ~CA

My thoughts too. I'm going to remove the cover to the propane heater, and check the 4 connector block. I'm hoping I'll see the 12V and ground, plus two wires for the thermostat. Then as you suggested, I'll remove these thermostat wires and cap them off, then run two new wires (I'll use blue, as that appears to be OEM color to keep it matching the schematic) to a wall mounted thermostat.

As you state, I'm not sure if the control board of this Carrier Air V A/C unit needs 110 AC in order to work with its remote, or from the units manual control.

Either way for heat, I want to use the KISS method.

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