2022 Jayco 24B with 190 W Solar

[MACUMBER]

My rig has the the Solar package (190W single panel on roof, MPPT controller in the outside bay under the fridge area, remote Solar controller inside the door.

My questions:

Can I 'splice in' my two panels (Renogy 100W mono each) that I have at the house and are not portable?

Would I need another Controller (another instance) or can I just add on another plus/minus set of wires before the roof top wires enter the controller? Everything would be connected in parallel.

My other situation: When I engage the battery disconnect my TV does not turn off but I do loose the signal. All other devices that I have checked so far do seem to loose the 110V. I haven't had a chance to look for an Inverter but I don't think there is one in the unit to find.

[Stavman]

The controller needs to be able use the amps the added panels add, so just can't splice them in.

What are u adding them? To do what?

Not sure why the tv stays on but the antenna booster is tied to the battery disconnect

[MACUMBER]

I would have 390 W total going into a 30 AMP MPPT controller. 400 Watts would produce, at best, 24 or 25 amps into the controller - add a cushion of 25% and I would be around 30 Amps. The Controller is a 30 AMP MTTP controller. I have never recorded over 9 amps with 200 watts of Solar in my present configuration, location, etc.

[MACUMBER]

I just want to use the Solar that I already have along with my new Motorhome that has a rooftop 190 W panel.

[Stavman]

Originally Posted by MACUMBER

I just want to use the Solar that I already have along with my new Motorhome that has a rooftop 190 W panel.

I get that but my question is for what

I use two portable panels, both 100w. One I'll hook up to my battery, also has an adapter to charge my portable power station at the same time
Other panel is strictly for charging a portable power station, I have two 300w stations

Both panels are interchangeable so can be used for either situation.

I use one charge controller just for the battery, the power station have internal controlers


If u used your two with the roof I'd think you'd need to add connection at your charge controller to run them all together. Doable for sure


I like my panels separate cuz the sun isnt always cooperative when out boondocking

[geezerbob]

MCumber.. We just purchased a 2022 24 BH it came with a go power 190 watt solar panel I had another go power 190 watt solar panel installed and hooked in parallel. I also had another group 27 12 volt battery installed in parallel. The camper has a 30 amp go power pwm controller mounted inside.
I had the second panel added because of the 12 volt dc 8 cu ft Fuerrion refrigerator and my uncertainty about the power needed to run the refrigerator.
We do not intend to boondock for long periods of time but occasionally for a few days. I'll see how it all works in the spring.
We have stored the tt for the winter so we have not tried out the fridge and solar.
Regarding the battery disconnect that is just inside the storage compartment I discovered that it only shuts off the converter charger component. All the 12 volt dc appliances still function on the battery but with out the camper charging the battery. I installed a battery shut off at the battery case to turn everything off.
Bob

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by MACUMBER

My other situation: When I engage the battery disconnect my TV does not turn off but I do loose the signal. All other devices that I have checked so far do seem to loose the 110V. I haven't had a chance to look for an Inverter but I don't think there is one in the unit to find.

If you mean the main battery disconnect by the door, then I am confused. That kills all of the power to my unit.


If you mean when connect the battery, then...


On my unit the inverter powers one lone outlet from behind the TV. What could be happening is the same thing in yours. The Antenna Booster and all other outlets in my rig is not powered from the inverter.

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by MACUMBER

I would have 390 W total going into a 30 AMP MPPT controller. 400 Watts would produce, at best, 24 or 25 amps into the controller - add a cushion of 25% and I would be around 30 Amps. The Controller is a 30 AMP MTTP controller. I have never recorded over 9 amps with 200 watts of Solar in my present configuration, location, etc.

Your MPPT controller may be able to handle it, but what about the wiring if you splice it up top?


You don't want 25A going down 14g wire. You're going to need 10g or better.

[ARoamer]

It's generally not recommended to mix different size solar panels, but you can do it. With two different sizes, the best solution, with charging a single battery bank, is for each of them to have their own controller.

• Solar Panels wired in series gets their voltages added while their amps stay at the lowest amperage of the panels in series.
• Solar Panels (or series strings) wired in parallel get their amperages added together while their voltages stay at the lowest voltage of the panels (or series strings) wired in parallel.

https://www.explorist.life/using-mis...r-panel-sizes/

[MACUMBER]

Splice: My plan is to splice the 2 panels into the system about 6 inches from where the roof wiring meets the controller in the side storage bin. The wiring into and out of the controller is 8 AWG and my exterior wiring is 10 AWG connected to the 2 100 W panels. I will use MC4 connectors so I can connect / disconnect as needed.

I have looked at several other articles and found that this will work and I will not have any problems. The 2 panels do not match the one panel in Watts but are close to the same specs. in other regards (IE: volts, mono, etc.)

Thanks for everyone's help.