Any Jayco or Odyssey 24B owners ?

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by drmike961

I ripped my cable under the driver's seat at the connection as well and have the ABS light on. I was told that this will be a jayco and not a ford problem. It will be a while before I let them have my coach to fix this issue. Have you had yours fixed?? If so did they butt splice the wires, or new harness? Was it required to go to ford to clear the ABS code? Thanks in advance.

I fixed it myself. One wire was actually broken in half, which I soldered and then put heat shrink tubing over it. The other wire ripped out of the connector, and I was able to fix that connection and get it back together.

It's definitely a Jayco issue, since they didn't relocate where the cable comes out of the vinyl floor covering and allow enough slack when the seat swivels to the rear. I had to slice the flooring under the seat base to get enough slack.

The ABS light went off when the cable was fixed and reattached.

Make sure you check under your passenger seat that the cable is fine, that's where my issue was.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Atlee

That's possible I guess. Would have to sleep on the left side of the bed. Never done that since we've been married.

There is a big drawer on the right side of the bed in the rear wardrobe cabinet. You can stay on the right side and modify that drawer, and there's an electrical outlet right there too.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Jlanzone

Rebuilt connection for a gas grill to accommodate a quick disconnect. Hooked up to rv to test, no lp flowing, at the quick disconnect or the rv stove. Noticed red lighting blinking in lp detector. Manual states if lp has detected, it will shut off gas flow. Anyone know how do you reset detector? Or what the issue might be.

Did you try turning the main tank valve completely off, and then SLOWLY opening it back up? If the gas surges too strong, there is a safety valve in the hose that shuts off flow (like in the case of a ruptured hose).

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

I fixed it myself. One wire was actually broken in half, which I soldered and then put heat shrink tubing over it. The other wire ripped out of the connector, and I was able to fix that connection and get it back together.

It's definitely a Jayco issue, since they didn't relocate where the cable comes out of the vinyl floor covering and allow enough slack when the seat swivels to the rear. I had to slice the flooring under the seat base to get enough slack.

The ABS light went off when the cable was fixed and reattached.

Make sure you check under your passenger seat that the cable is fine, that's where my issue was.

My passenger side is fine...so far. Unfortunately the drivers side has 4 wires that pulled out of the connector and cannot be matched to color. I tried multiple ways of pushing them back into the connector but no dice. I got nowhere with jayco as far as a wiring schematic. If anyone is bored and kind enough to check the wires at the connector to tell me what color wires connect to each other I would be greatly appreciated. Then I could just bypass the connector and butt splice a couple extra feet of wire in and call it good. Good to know that the ABS light will turn off.

[RetiredOne]

I'll check my driver's side cable in the morning to see what the color coding is. I don't remember it being 4 wires though.... But, I just checked to see if there was an issue with slack and breaking, like the passenger side, and Jayco left enough slack when the seat swivels to the back on the driver's side. They just screwed up on the passenger side.

[bruceg]

Black goes to black, red goes to light blue with blue tracer, the two remaining blue with red tracer must not matter which goes to dark blue with red tracer and tan with green tracer.

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by bruceg

Black goes to black, red goes to light blue with blue tracer, the two remaining blue with red tracer must not matter which goes to dark blue with red tracer and tan with green tracer.

Thank you so much. That is simple yet invaluable info that seems to only be had by the help of other members, as opposed to the "experts".

[Jlanzone]

Thank you. Come to find out if the valve isn’t open ALL the way the gas won’t flow. Being my first rv, I treated it like my gas grill, 1/2 turn.... needless to say 1/2 turn doesn’t cut it.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by drmike961

My passenger side is fine...so far. Unfortunately the drivers side has 4 wires that pulled out of the connector and cannot be matched to color.

Here is a picture I took of the 4 wire connector. Is it any help, or tell me which angle or part you need.

[bruceg]

Took my first extended trip last week with my Redhawk 24B and it wasn't very encouraging. There is a bad rattle in the bunk above the cab on bumpy roads. I think it is the wooden frame for the cargo netting hitting against the ceiling. The ignitor on the propane side of the water heater quit working. From what I have read it sounds like the circuit board is bad. I also read that these are the new "improved" circuit boards. Then the slide started to peel up the flooring and the weatherstrip on the body at the front of the slide is bowing out at the bottom. Other than that it was great. Hopefully that will be it for problems for a while.

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Here is a picture I took of the 4 wire connector. Is it any help, or tell me which angle or part you need.

That was the damaged side so thank you. I wish I was able to make the existing connector work but despite stripping the wires back a little and shoving them in, no contact. I guess I will have to bypass the connector.

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by bruceg

Took my first extended trip last week with my Redhawk 24B and it wasn't very encouraging. There is a bad rattle in the bunk above the cab on bumpy roads. I think it is the wooden frame for the cargo netting hitting against the ceiling. The ignitor on the propane side of the water heater quit working. From what I have read it sounds like the circuit board is bad. I also read that these are the new "improved" circuit boards. Then the slide started to peel up the flooring and the weatherstrip on the body at the front of the slide is bowing out at the bottom. Other than that it was great. Hopefully that will be it for problems for a while.

I have the terrible crashing noise right above by head on bad roads as well. I noticed that it wasn't that bad when bringing my baby home for the first time. I noticed that the fronts were at 60psi so I filled them to 75 per the door sticker. The crashing noise was unbearable so I reduced to 70 psi (where I guess it truly belongs anyway). Someday I will weigh it to find out. It is some better but very annoying. I made my son ride in the bunk for a mile with no traffic but he could not isolate it. Sounds to me like it is between the cab and the bunk. I have no past experience with class Cs. For those in the know is there anything we should troubleshoot such as removing the trim to inspect between the cab and bunk where the bunk flips up? I have to do something but don't want to start tearing into things that should be left alone.

[RetiredOne]

I haven't heard that crashing noise in mine, we ride with the cushion folded over. There's not much else up there. Any chance it's the ladder bouncing around up there? Where do you store the ladder?

I installed some brackets and strap the ladder behind the drivers seat, up against the curved bulkhead. No issues there.

[drmike961]

No we removed everything from the bunk and traveled with it up and down. This noise is far louder than a ladder. More like structural parts banging together. It is something in the cab over structure or drivers end of the slide. Strange that it is so difficult to isolate but it is. Oh well we will eventually nail it down.

[RetiredOne]

I had a bad rattle from the frameless window by the eating area, and had to fool around with it to get it to stop. Maybe that's it?

[drmike961]

Well I found the source of my banging/crashing noise while riding in the cab over bunk. I can put my hand on the curved decorative luan ceiling about midway down and feel what I believe to be a horizontal structural support behind it banging against the interior curved ceiling. I wish I could see what was going on between the fiberglass outer cap and the inner ceiling. Whatever it is, it's obnoxious and I have no clue how to fix it. If it is horizontal framing and it is wood, maybe I can screw the ceiling into the framing so that it cant bounce off of it. If anyone happens to understand the anatomy of the cab over structural components by all means please chime in.

[RetiredOne]

Well, that's a interesting and new dilemma... Unfortunately, I have no idea how they built the cabover ceiling. My quick guess, since there are no exterior screws in the cabover, which would hold any framing or bracing, is that it might have been glued to the inside of the cabover, and the glue pulled loose, allowing the bracing to bounce around.

If that's the case, one idea would to be drill some small holes next to the brace and shoot in some contact cement (or similar) and see if you can press the bracing back onto the cabover.

If you think the luan pulled loose on the interior side of the bracing, some small screws or finish nails should pull it back tight.

Maybe someone who's pulled that area apart before can shed some info....

[drmike961]

Before I overfill my water tank, anyone know where the overflow/vent tube is? I'm guessing that it is one or more of the three tubes between the generator and the water tank? Also anyone found a better solution to the garbage water drain petcock?? Takes half a day to drain the tank.

[RetiredOne]

Correct, there are 3 white tubes hanging down behind the generator. Don't know which is vent or overflow, my guess is they all do the same thing.

Regarding draining the water tank, I open that crappy drain valve, I also open both low point drains in the rear compartment and turn on the water pump. It will pressurize the water lines and drain the tank quickly.

[drmike961]

Thank you sir, you have been very helpful as always. I guess that I need to take the time to study the different plumbing valve combinations on the panel. This is so foreign to me from what I am used to, especially when you factor in the different ways to fill a tank while dry camping and the inability to gravity fill from a jug.