Loose exterior molding

[Sam]

The vertical exterior molding is coming off the sides on the Seneca. In one location there is an 18 inch length where the molding has raised about 1/2 inch from the wall. I can see two screws that has worked their way up and partially out, but not through the molding. I contacted the local Ford dealer's body shop, (great reputation) and they did not want to work on the problem. I don't think they really knew how to fix it. One RV repair said that the molding would have to be repainted after repair and would be very expensive considering the labor involved. I am going to call Jacyo tomorrow for advise.

I seem to remember some time back that someone had the same issue and had it repaired at a dealer. If anyone has recommendations or ideas please jump in.

I live in rural SW CO so there is little if any help close by.

Thanks, Sam

[memphis02]

I had the same issue on my '14. My local repair shop did warn me about possibly needing to repaint, but they were able to avoid it.

[tjbroussard]

Same for me. My vertical molding was coming off. I was able to completely remove it, replace the rusted screws with stainless steel, and reseal the trim without repainting. I think it was best done in the summer as the heat mad the trim more pliable. Pictures posted in another similar thread as I recall.

[Mr Bill]

Just returned from a trip out west and noticed a piece of the vertical seam trim bulging and separating from the exterior wall. About 8 inches long and 1/2 inch gap. I can see a screw just about dead center in the middle of the gap. Our Seneca is only 18 months old, I see no rust on the screw. How did you remove the trim piece? Is this something a reputable local dealer can do? Do you have any pictures you are willing to share? Thanks in advance!

[tjbroussard]

It was a very warm day here when I did this. I was able to slowly pull the vinyl strip off without damaging the paint. Not sure I would do this in winter weather. I kept the trim straight while I worked on the sealing. Then I cleaned it up, resealed and I replaced trim with new screws. The vinyl snapped back on very easy. I think anyone could do this.
Hope this helps.

[K9Nardu]

Originally Posted by tjbroussard

Attachment 45851Attachment 45852Attachment 45853It was a very warm day here when I did this. I was able to slowly pull the vinyl strip off without damaging the paint. Not sure I would do this in winter weather. I kept the trim straight while I worked on the sealing. Then I cleaned it up, resealed and I replaced trim with new screws. The vinyl snapped back on very easy. I think anyone could do this.
Hope this helps.

Disturbing build quality on a high end class C. How does Jayco allow this kind of shoddy craftsmanship to occur? Makes me think twice about ever buying another Jayco product again. But then again, what manufacturer builds a solid product anymore .....

[Sam]

I just finished reapplying the molding yesterday. I keep my Seneca in an RV heated garage so I was able to work on it in cold weather. I did talk to a body shop and a RV repair and they did not want to do the job. I live in remote SW CO so I did not have many options so I did the repair myself. I called Jayco and they were very helpful.

I began by carefully cuting along the bottom of the trim all they way from top to bottom, both sides, separating the sealant from the molding. I then lifted one edge of the molding (carefully) from bottom to the top. You should notice that the molding comes off easier on one side that the other. You will be able to see the difference. After removal of the molding remove the aluminum stripping. Next is the removal of the Butyl tape from the wall. This is a time consuming JOB. After insuring the wall is as clean as possible you may want to drill some more holes to add more screws. I did. I also replaced all the screws with stainless steel ones. Then add new Butyl tape. I ordered the tape from Amazon, ( 30 foot roll 3/4 inch wide 1/8 inch thick). Reattach the Aluminum strip and snap the molding onto the strip. Once the molding is reattached you need to apply seal from top to bottom on both sides of the molding. Jayco recommended Quad OSI sealant. This is good stuff. I got mine at Home Depot.


Good luck, and go real slow, I took my time and it came out pretty good. It is a time consuming job and I would have had an expert do it if I could have.

Sam

[Sam]

I agree with K9Nardu, this should never have happened. I have owned my Seneca for 3 1/2 years and it is always garaged when not in use. I like the MH but this is real frustrating. I am probably going to have to repair the other three moldings in the near future.


Sam

[RVermont]

Just had to do the drivers side. I did not fully remove the cap moulding. Just pulled it away on one side. It was in the sun and the moulding was very soft and flexible. I tightened the screws initially and decided to replace them with stainless and increased size from 8 to 10. I also added some extra screws near the top and at the area where the front cap meets the two walls. Pressed the cap strip on and resealed. Will probably have to do the other side later this year or next.

Not a job I wanted to do but much simpler then I expected. Just the fear of having to paint the strip was scarier then the actual repair. This is one of these under engineered items that is a fairly common issue that drive me crazy. Similar to no supports under the fresh water tank.

[che57vy]

It's a shame what these things cost and they come apart at the seams