Redhawk 24B bypass valves

dragonflys · 11-05-2019, 08:50 AM

Hi, I am getting ready to winterize my Redhawk and cannot find any bypass valves for the water heater.....the manual is not specific if and where it could be.

RetiredOne · 11-05-2019, 09:33 AM

Get a phillips head screwdriver and take off the brown vent under the fridge. You'll see the HW tank and the three valves. Close off the top and bottom ones and open the middle one, which bypasses the tank.

Then, you'll have to open the outside access cover and get in and unscrew the white plug in the left rear, which will drain the tank.

RetiredOne · 11-05-2019, 09:40 AM

Also remember you have the water filter and cannister hidden in the rear wardrobe cabinet that needs to be attended to. You'll need to run the slide out, remove the two right side drawers and maybe even the brown vent, so you can get in there to remove it, and clean up any water spilled.

What a stupid location....

dragonflys · 11-06-2019, 10:26 AM

Hi Retired. I did find the valves. As far as the water filter goes, my 2right side drawers catch on the metal frame of the bed even with slide out. I had to access via the vent and was such a pain What a shame to have the filter with such poor access.

Can you take the right side drawers out? Is there something I am not getting??

dragonflys · 11-06-2019, 10:27 AM

Good photos!!!

RetiredOne · 11-06-2019, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonflys

Can you take the right side drawers out? Is there something I am not getting??

Yeah, they come out, but there's a trick to it.

When you pull the drawer out, and press the little release levers on the sides, you have to slide the tracks back in, versus pull the drawer out, like on the left side. Once the tracks are pushed back in, you can get the drawers out of the way.

When the tracks are extended, there's not enough clearance to get by the bed on the right side.

I'm winterizing today, and going to remove the filter assembly completely before I do. Really stupid location. I use the external Camco filters on the water line.

I'm also going to see about relocating the water pump from the bottom of the cabinet into the large storage bin in the back, to make access to the pump and inlet screen easier, as eventually it will have a problem too.

drmike961 · 11-06-2019, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Yeah, they come out, but there's a trick to it.

When you pull the drawer out, and press the little release levers on the sides, you have to slide the tracks back in, versus pull the drawer out, like on the left side. Once the tracks are pushed back in, you can get the drawers out of the way.

When the tracks are extended, there's not enough clearance to get by the bed on the right side.

I'm winterizing today, and going to remove the filter assembly completely before I do. Really stupid location. I use the external Camco filters on the water line.

I'm also going to see about relocating the water pump from the bottom of the cabinet into the large storage bin in the back, to make access to the pump and inlet screen easier, as eventually it will have a problem too.

I winterized today and felt that I got all lines/tanks blown and at least pumped with some antifreeze except the black flush. No way to pump antifreeze through it and I tried to push air through it with no way of knowing if I was successful. I even tried about 75 psi for a brief moment to make sure I blew some water out. It felt restricted which makes me doubt that it worked. There is no check valve at the flush out hookup but probably is at the tank?? IDK. Thoughts/solutions??

RetiredOne · 11-06-2019, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drmike961

I winterized today and felt that I got all lines/tanks blown and at least pumped with some antifreeze except the black flush. No way to pump antifreeze through it and I tried to push air through it with no way of knowing if I was successful. I even tried about 75 psi for a brief moment to make sure I blew some water out. It felt restricted which makes me doubt that it worked. There is no check valve at the flush out hookup but probably is at the tank?? IDK. Thoughts/solutions??

I didn't have time to get AF through today. Took out the water filter cannister and looking to relocate the pump over above the water control panel in the big bin.

I blew out my lines the other day. I have a screw in fitting for the water connection that hooks up to my compressor. Got all the lines blown out as best as possible. There are definite high/low spots in the piping, as I can tell water runs back to the low spots. The system definitely needs AF sent through after the air blow out to make sure the low spots don't freeze.

I also hooked the same connector to the black tank flush, and it sounded like air blew through. Remember, there's a vacuum breaker for that line in the rear wardrobe cabinet, to the right of where the water filter was. I believe water will lay in that line where the line lays on the floor in the base of the wardrobe cabinet.

I had ordered a hand pump from Amazon, and going to try and hand pump AF into that black line tomorrow. I should be able to see down the toilet if the AF makes it all the way to the black tank.

I still wonder about the water line going from the city connection to the water tank in the front. I switched the valves to "city Fill" and blew air through it, no idea if it got all the water out. I'm still thinking on sending some AF that way, and some will end up in the water tank. Thinking the AF will mix with any standing water in the tank and also flow down to the drain valve, and protect the drain valve too from standing water.

Then, there's the return line from the water tank to the pump......

drmike961 · 11-07-2019, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

I didn't have time to get AF through today. Took out the water filter cannister and looking to relocate the pump over above the water control panel in the big bin.

I blew out my lines the other day. I have a screw in fitting for the water connection that hooks up to my compressor. Got all the lines blown out as best as possible. There are definite high/low spots in the piping, as I can tell water runs back to the low spots. The system definitely needs AF sent through after the air blow out to make sure the low spots don't freeze.

I also hooked the same connector to the black tank flush, and it sounded like air blew through. Remember, there's a vacuum breaker for that line in the rear wardrobe cabinet, to the right of where the water filter was. I believe water will lay in that line where the line lays on the floor in the base of the wardrobe cabinet.

I had ordered a hand pump from Amazon, and going to try and hand pump AF into that black line tomorrow. I should be able to see down the toilet if the AF makes it all the way to the black tank.

I still wonder about the water line going from the city connection to the water tank in the front. I switched the valves to "city Fill" and blew air through it, no idea if it got all the water out. I'm still thinking on sending some AF that way, and some will end up in the water tank. Thinking the AF will mix with any standing water in the tank and also flow down to the drain valve, and protect the drain valve too from standing water.

Then, there's the return line from the water tank to the pump......

Sanitize/winterize setting feeds the line to the fresh tank. I put about a 1/2 gallon (needed more but was running low) of antifreeze into the fresh tank that way. Normal setting sends it from the tank to a faucet. I got some clear water first, then air and a little antifreeze so hopefully that line is protected. Adding more to the tank so it can pick it up from the bottom would have helped. I used 3 gallons total to make sure I had enough to keep the valves covered in the holding tanks. If that was indeed your question.

RetiredOne · 11-07-2019, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drmike961

Sanitize/winterize setting feeds the line to the fresh tank. I put about a 1/2 gallon (needed more but was running low) of antifreeze into the fresh tank that way. Normal setting sends it from the tank to a faucet. I got some clear water first, then air and a little antifreeze so hopefully that line is protected. Adding more to the tank so it can pick it up from the bottom would have helped. I used 3 gallons total to make sure I had enough to keep the valves covered in the holding tanks. If that was indeed your question.

Go check out this post I just made and let me know what you think:

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tml#post808246

dragonflys · 11-08-2019, 12:15 PM

I could get one side of the track to slide back in but not the other side no matter how I did the small levers.....just decided to leave till spring then make a decision whether or not to use the water filter or take out and replace with straight line. If I decide to use will take out the bottom right drawer and screw the drawer front in to easily access the filter.

RetiredOne · 11-08-2019, 01:02 PM

When I took both right side drawers out to remove the filter assembly, I had to fight a bit with a lower track to get it to slide back and get the drawer out. Then I noticed the upper right track was broken (bearings missing), and the rail falls out. I was able to get the drawer back in temporarily, but I'll have to replace the complete track on that side...

Jayco and their crap material choices.... it never ends....

arobinson6 · 11-15-2020, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Get a phillips head screwdriver and take off the brown vent under the fridge. You'll see the HW tank and the three valves. Close off the top and bottom ones and open the middle one, which bypasses the tank.

Then, you'll have to open the outside access cover and get in and unscrew the white plug in the left rear, which will drain the tank.

I have a 2020 Jayco RedHawks 24b, My water heater bypass valves don't look like that, they are white not stainless steel, only two of them not 3. They were pointing up so I turned them right?

Were you able to get the bottom right hand drawer out for the filter? Its almost impossible

arobinson6 · 11-15-2020, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Yeah, they come out, but there's a trick to it.

When you pull the drawer out, and press the little release levers on the sides, you have to slide the tracks back in, versus pull the drawer out, like on the left side. Once the tracks are pushed back in, you can get the drawers out of the way.

When the tracks are extended, there's not enough clearance to get by the bed on the right side.

I'm winterizing today, and going to remove the filter assembly completely before I do. Really stupid location. I use the external Camco filters on the water line.

I'm also going to see about relocating the water pump from the bottom of the cabinet into the large storage bin in the back, to make access to the pump and inlet screen easier, as eventually it will have a problem too.

I'm going to try that with the drawers!! But why does our RedHawks have only two stare heater valves? Which way do I turn the two white valves? to winterize it?

msherw · 11-15-2020, 11:32 AM

Maybe I'm wrong but if you keep the water heater on electric, the interior of the coach at 50º or above with a cube heater, the cabinet doors open, water pump off and all faucets open -- should't that work for winter weather?

arobinson6 · 11-15-2020, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msherw

Maybe I'm wrong but if you keep the water heater on electric, the interior of the coach at 50º or above with a cube heater, the cabinet doors open, water pump off and all faucets open -- should't that work for winter weather?

Probably not even that much in central Texas.

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