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Old 04-06-2016, 06:06 PM   #11
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If these are so finicky why did Jayco add them as an option for 2017 TT's?
It does say generation 3...maybe better?
You can only hope!!
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:18 PM   #12
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I think ours was the second generation. I understand they work okay for camping with full hookups, but we usually boondock or have only water and electric at state parks. Without the sewer connection, we could not run the shower constantly without quickly filling the grey tank.
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Old 04-07-2016, 01:21 AM   #13
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If only RVs came with the same anti-scalding plumbing that is in residential showers, then maybe the tankless could work better, but seeing as it depends on flowing water, not even that would work well. We do long road trips mostly and go for a couple days without proper showers until we have full hookups.
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:02 AM   #14
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The tank-less water heater is, best case, useless when using the water pump... worst case, dangerous (we've met 3 people in campgrounds that have been burned when the water pump cycled).

Dealers we've talked to do a brisk business in replacing them, and sometimes Jayco will pay.

The tank-less may work in a campground, but why pay for the electric, and then use your own gas... doesn't make sense to me.

JMHO
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:06 AM   #15
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I have a 3rd generation and don't find it to work any better than others have described of the other versions. I will be on the water pump this weekend for the first time so I'm not looking forward to that.
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Old 05-04-2016, 01:45 PM   #16
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We just got our Greyhawk back from the dealer last Friday. After several calls to Jayco by our dealer and one from me, they finally authorized a replacement. We now have a 6-gallon Suburban SW6DE. At least for our 31FK, there was no cutting required. We will be taking it on its first outing in two weeks and are looking forward to less troublesome showers!
where did they put your switches for the new heater, elctric on/off and gas on/off
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Old 05-04-2016, 02:54 PM   #17
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Switch placement will depend on the layout or your rig. On my 29MV I put them on the stove side of the fridge. There's enough room between the side of the fridge and the paneling for the switches to fit. After the install I also changed out the 115VAC switch to a switch with a pilot light so I know when it's turned on.
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Old 05-04-2016, 04:12 PM   #18
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The electric on/off switch is built into the water heater unit behind the access panel. At first I thought that would be annoying, but then realized we do not turn the electric heating element on and off often. When we hook up at a campsite, the electric is turned on and stays on until we are ready to disconnect, usually several days later. Plus, I'd want to open the access panel anyway to use the pressure relief valve to make certain the tank is full before powering the electric element on.

The dealer removed the old Girard tankless temperature control knob from the bathroom wall and installed the gas on/off switch in its place. Looks like it was there from day one. Having the gas control inside is nice because I turn that on in the evening and then back off after showers and dishes are done.
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:19 PM   #19
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Just finished 1500 trip 2016 Seneca

Just finished 1500 mile trip with my new Seneca, it drives like dream, everything worked like a charm except the tankless what're heater tripped and I had to pull out the useless tech manual. They talk about a reset button but don't show you where to look. Thank god someone out there youtubed how to reset the tankless hot water heater. As for the fueling, I did passenger tank first then moved rig to other pump and filled driver side just like it was recommended in this forum. With 2500 miles on the odometer, during this trip I averaged 11-12 miles per gallon non towing. Florida to Indiana round trip. Oh it took about 2 gallons of DEF.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:03 PM   #20
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hopper, nc what models did you use? I am thinking SW6DEL so I can turn the electric on/off from inside
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