I bought a Haier 9.8 cubic foot refrigerator for our Greyhawk 30x. The Norcold N8X was working but was tired of the slow recovery times of temperatures.
My question… do I need to do anything “special” to protect the compressor during travel. The reason I ask, I was wondering about the “klanking” you hear sometimes when you move a fridge. Not sure if that is hard on the compressor or just an annoying noise. I provided some protection to prevent the tubes from rubbing on each other.
I put that same refrigerator in my 08 Eagle. Used it for 5 years or so before trading for a 17 North Point.
Put that same refrigerator in my sister's Eagle about 3 years ago with no problems so far.
I just screwed it down from the back and put some trim on the front to make it look good.
I put the same size Refrigerator in my 2018 Greyhawk 31fs,,, approx 6 months ago best thing we have ever done supper pleased with it. Mine stays plugged in at home and I run the generator while traveling because I run the roof A/C ‘s while traveling. I do not travel hot even Skinny guys sweat….
So normally for the propane fridges you need to have the vent on the back. With the residential, that panel could be removed. Did everyone who installed a residential close up that panel or leave it vented?
Most of the newer RVs that have resi fridges don't even have an outside panel.
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2021 Entegra Odyssey 31F
2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
Ready Brute Elite Tow Bar
I am looking at this also. I believe it would be beneficial to have some ventilation back there but I have not talked with any who has done the mod yet.
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2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
Gator roll-up bed cover
B&W Turnover ball, Companion Std hitch
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I left my vent there when We removed the Norcold and installed the Residental Fridge. Manufacture said it would help on getting rid of heat produced by the fridge. Also DO NOT a put any insulation between the fridge side walls and the inside RV walls the fridge will Not cool properly according to the manufacture. Ask me how I know…….
I removed the side insulation as well, based on feedback I received on this forum.
Another tip… anchor the unit through the back frame to the floor. That’s a bit obvious. The bigger question was how to anchor the front. I used the bolt insert from hinge mount. The hinge was mounted on the right so I used the left mount to anchor a L bracket to the cabinet front. I then notched wood trim to cover it up. It worked out great. It looks like it came from the factory that way and it is very stable.
Please do post some pictures and also I am interested in how you secure the doors to help keep them closed when in motion?
I usually don't jump out of perfectly good airplanes or replace working equipment but this mod is looking better and better mainly because the fridge has almost 2 cf more storage.
__________________ Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
Gator roll-up bed cover
B&W Turnover ball, Companion Std hitch
Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
I am looking at this also. I believe it would be beneficial to have some ventilation back there but I have not talked with any who has done the mod yet.
I left the vent there when I installed a residential. I agree maybe good to be vented.
I know you can buy panels that are not vented, but now you are spending more $$