Solution for Wood Screwed Access Panels

[Brian_HR]

Hi all, our Redhawk 24B finally arrived - Yay! It took 5 months (ordered back in July) and the dealership said that's pretty typical these days. Anyway, I spent a lot of time today going over the inside and outside of the rig. So far so good. One item I'm hoping I can tap into the community's experience on is Jayco's use of wood screws directly into the siding to fix the access panel for the water heater bypass valves. This looks like it will be a problem down the road with the wood screws over time creating a hole and no longer holding the access panel secure. Any recommendations or solutions that others have come up with?

[cpd1343]

I have used this type in the past along with some epoxy:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Brian_HR

One item I'm hoping I can tap into the community's experience on is Jayco's use of wood screws directly into the siding to fix the access panel for the water heater bypass valves. This looks like it will be a problem down the road with the wood screws over time creating a hole and no longer holding the access panel secure. Any recommendations or solutions that others have come up with?

If you don't over tighten them there shouldn't be a problem. Never caused any issues for me.

[Bobby B]

What Les said. That was the first mod I did when I found out where the bypass for the water heater was. I think the size I used was 8-32.

[Tunce the traveler]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

If you don't over tighten them there shouldn't be a problem. Never caused any issues for me.

X2 & I bet I’ve opened that rear hatch 100 times

[norty1]

I have glued a paint paddle on the inside of the sides with the screw holes seems to help reinforce it.

On one I used a speed nut slipped onto the paneling, it also worked great and you can use the same screws..

https://glhblob1.blob.core.windows.n...C-20170524.jpg

[Brian_HR]

Originally Posted by cpd1343

I have used this type in the past along with some epoxy:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks Les. Those look like exactly what I need. I tried using neodymium magnets to hold the panel on but the vibration of travel just jostled them loose. I'll definitely be giving these a try.

[Brian_HR]

Originally Posted by norty1

I have glued a paint paddle on the inside of the sides with the screw holes seems to help reinforce it.

@norty1, I like the idea of reinforcing the wall with a paint stick (if I'm understanding what you did). The screw then goes through the wall and bites into the paint stick, correct? Have you had to replace that over time?

[don_kleinschnitz]

I used "hanger bolts"..https://amzn.to/359f9HM
with wing nuts.

[ttavasc]

I used Tee-Nuts on the access covers of both our 195RB and our ORV. In places where the paneling is thinner I've glued a small piece of extra paneling in place to make sure there is enough thickness for the prongs to grab.

1/4" Zinc-plated 3-prong Tee-Nuts

[KregChar]

I made a door out of it. Installed 2 hinges and a barrel bolt. Earthquaking it for about 2 years now with no issues.
I also installed a light inside the compartment. No filter change in darkness anymore.

[harryjr]

Ours were loose when we got it from the previous owner. I just covered a few round toothpicks with carpenters glue and shoved them in there and let them sit over the winter. Then cut them flush and was careful not to overtighten. Five years and still OK.

Idiot award to Jayco for the design though.

[16WhiteColly]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

If you don't over tighten them there shouldn't be a problem. Never caused any issues for me.

X3. I have removed them many times in 4 1/2 years, still no problem.

[Tunce the traveler]

[QUOTE=norty1;926026]I have glued a paint paddle on the inside of the sides with the screw holes seems to help reinforce it.

Working on a friends trailer now that will need reinforcement in this area so I intend to use norty’s idea and cut sections of the larger paint paddles used for mixing in 5gal. Paint buckets as it leaves no trace of a repair.

[cpd1343]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

If you don't over tighten them there shouldn't be a problem. Never caused any issues for me.

This is fine if they don't come stripped from over tightening at the factory like mine did.

[Dynamo65]

If the screw hole becomes too large and the screw won't bite, stick a wooden tooth pick in the hole and reinsert the screw. That has worked fine several times

[salukee]

Originally Posted by ttavasc

I used Tee-Nuts on the access covers of both our 195RB and our ORV. In places where the paneling is thinner I've glued a small piece of extra paneling in place to make sure there is enough thickness for the prongs to grab.

1/4" Zinc-plated 3-prong Tee-Nuts

When I need to beef up a paneling attachment, I glue small squares to the back of the paneling and then use the tee nuts to secure the grilles/covers. When there is sufficient room I have doubled up on the backing plate to allow a secure attachment with no danger of overtightening. I have used both paint mixer paddles and scrap pieces of paneling for the backing.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Brian_HR

@norty1, I like the idea of reinforcing the wall with a paint stick (if I'm understanding what you did). The screw then goes through the wall and bites into the paint stick, correct? Have you had to replace that over time?

After the glue dried, I just used the same screw and drilled a pilot hole because paint paddles will split. The best thing that worked for me was the speed nut slipped over the paneling.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by Brian_HR

Hi all, our Redhawk 24B finally arrived - Yay! It took 5 months (ordered back in July) and the dealership said that's pretty typical these days. Anyway, I spent a lot of time today going over the inside and outside of the rig. So far so good. One item I'm hoping I can tap into the community's experience on is Jayco's use of wood screws directly into the siding to fix the access panel for the water heater bypass valves. This looks like it will be a problem down the road with the wood screws over time creating a hole and no longer holding the access panel secure. Any recommendations or solutions that others have come up with?

I know there are differing panel types, but here is what I did.

I killed two birds with one stone. I enlarged this access panel hole and added 3/4" x 3/4" wood strips for attaching the panel. Note the accurately drilled Jayco holes around the original hole.

Original panel never stayed in place.


Note the perfectly centered and drilled screw holes.




After making the opening bigger and adding the wood for the screws to bite into.


With cover


Installed again

[ronsmithcma]

Originally Posted by Brian_HR

Hi all, our Redhawk 24B finally arrived - Yay! It took 5 months (ordered back in July) and the dealership said that's pretty typical these days. Anyway, I spent a lot of time today going over the inside and outside of the rig. So far so good. One item I'm hoping I can tap into the community's experience on is Jayco's use of wood screws directly into the siding to fix the access panel for the water heater bypass valves. This looks like it will be a problem down the road with the wood screws over time creating a hole and no longer holding the access panel secure. Any recommendations or solutions that others have come up with?

I have the same issue with my Redhawk 22A. I removed the vent to access the hot water heater during winterizing and left it open until I found a replacement solution.

Ron