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Old 06-24-2020, 02:11 PM   #21
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I have a 2020 Entegra class C with the EMS. I can run both ACs, microwave, and I leave my water heater always on. Have never had a problem. The EMS works wonders, and if needed it takes amp from my refrigerator for a few minutes and then returns them when done after a few. I love this system. Everyone told me this wasn't possible but the EMS proves them wrong.
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Old 06-24-2020, 02:45 PM   #22
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Power Management System

The Power Management System monitor left on to show the Amp total in use is your friend. We taped a list of the appliances and their draw. If we need to turn off one AC to use the microwave for a few minutes, so what. Just be aware of what is in use. I agree, gas is also a player you have no need to avoid. Use it.
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:18 PM   #23
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I'll always use electric first

My coach has two 11,000 btu rooftop AC's with slow start that together draw 18 amps. The water heater draws about 9. So I can run all three on 30 amp service, but with not much room to spare. I'll cool the coach down with two AC's then switch one off when I run the hot water heater on electric. Having to replace propane can be logistically challenging at times so I choose this method.
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:24 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterjds View Post
I have a 2020 Entegra class C with the EMS. I can run both ACs, microwave, and I leave my water heater always on. Have never had a problem. The EMS works wonders, and if needed it takes amp from my refrigerator for a few minutes and then returns them when done after a few. I love this system. Everyone told me this wasn't possible but the EMS proves them wrong.
Nope everyone is correct. An EMS, As most of the RV world knows it, can not do that. What you have is a missed named Load Shedding Device. It removes and reconnects the load as needed to stay under (usually) 50 amps.
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Old 06-24-2020, 04:58 PM   #25
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You will have 3600 watts of potential power with a 30 amp 120 receptacle. If you typically plug into a 50 amp that gives you 12,000 watts of power as it's 2 50 amp 120 volts legs. You can figure your power usage from there. Many folks forget that 2 legs on 50 amp and 1 leg on 30 amps. You have about 1/4 of the power on 30 amps as you would on 50 amp service. Good Luck..
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Old 06-24-2020, 07:04 PM   #26
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I believe the gentleman miss spoke in saying it took a amp away. It shuts off power to the device then returns power. Our 2018 Jayco Class C Greyhawk 31DS Load shedding system has the name Power Control System on the face plate. Program into it is a list of items in order of priority.
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Old 06-25-2020, 10:15 AM   #27
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class c

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Hey everyone. Still new to RV'ing, but have a question on using the water heater . Having 2 AC's and EMS on a 30 amp coach, is it better to use propane vs electricity to heat water to save amperage for other appliances? Or do you value the propane more for the other items in coach? Getting ready to take the beast out for the 1st time, and not really sure how much propane it will use to do things like heat water heater, or furnace, or cool the fridge. Appreciate any advice.
I have a class C with one air conditioner, I run all on electric, no issues, but I only turn on the water heater 30 minutes before I shower
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Old 06-25-2020, 10:33 PM   #28
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Spent the at a park night with electric and power. Used propane to cool fridge and after 4 hours on propane, fridge was cool enough to put food in. Out of curiousity I used propane to heat water heater and it warmed up pretty fast. When I looked at tank to see how much propane I had left, it looked like I hardly used anything. Since the weather was nice, I only turned on the ac in the living area,turned on the main and outside tvs , and switched everything to electricity. EMS showed no sheds, all appliances good. I can get used to this rv'ing lifestyle,lol.
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Old 06-26-2020, 02:54 AM   #29
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Spent the at a park night with electric and power. Used propane to cool fridge and after 4 hours on propane, fridge was cool enough to put food in. Out of curiousity I used propane to heat water heater and it warmed up pretty fast. When I looked at tank to see how much propane I had left, it looked like I hardly used anything. Since the weather was nice, I only turned on the ac in the living area,turned on the main and outside tvs , and switched everything to electricity. EMS showed no sheds, all appliances good. I can get used to this rv'ing lifestyle,lol.
What does this mean? Did you put the Fridge and WH on Electric? If you left them on GAS then YES by all means you can do that. I leave my WH on GAS 24/7. I pay for electric at my site and GAS is cheaper. I have done the math.

FYI. What you are calling an EMS is a mislabeled piece of equipment. I know it says Energy Management System but in reality it is a Load Shedding Device An EMS as the RV world knows it does not and can not shed loads. It turns off all power and turns on ALL power. It does not shed selected power as your system does. SO when you hear the term EMS you will need to know which EMS the person is talking about. Usually it will be NOT the load sheading kind unless you are speaking to a 100% newer Motor Home Crowd because USUALLY it's the only place to find a load shedding device.

This is what the RV world calls an EMS. this is the portable version. They make a Hard wired version also.

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Your EMS is Amperage driven. The EMS shown is Voltage driven.
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Old 06-26-2020, 05:21 AM   #30
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Rich 92154: Your class C does have a load sharing device, no matter what it's called. Since they came out on class C mh's there is a lot of discussions about terminology. I have not heard of them on travel trailers but I am sure that's coming.
Maybe we can put all to rest by coming up with a term that is less confusing to the average camper and does not drive the professional electricians crazy?
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Old 06-26-2020, 05:39 AM   #31
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Profession Electricians LOVE it when newbies can learn the proper language and know the difference between all the "new to them" equipment in their life and how it works. It was bad enough when a Surge Protector became and EMS. Now we have a Surge Protector that became an EMS that became a Load Shedding Device. All three of which are different devices and not one of witch can do all of the things the other does.
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Old 06-26-2020, 08:30 AM   #32
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We put ours on electric for all use but showers. Just before jumping into the shower, we flip the gas also. Flip gas off when done. If you look at the recovery sticker, when both are on, the recovery of a 6 gallon Atwood is faster than a 40 gallon gas heater in your home.
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Old 06-26-2020, 08:40 AM   #33
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30amp vs 50amp with 30 amp TT

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You will have 3600 watts of potential power with a 30 amp 120 receptacle. If you typically plug into a 50 amp that gives you 12,000 watts of power as it's 2 50 amp 120 volts legs. You can figure your power usage from there. Many folks forget that 2 legs on 50 amp and 1 leg on 30 amps. You have about 1/4 of the power on 30 amps as you would on 50 amp service. Good Luck..
I know this has been brought up before but I think there was varying answers (I know - imagine that).
My TT is only wired for 30 amp service - however I do have a dog-bone to use for 50 amp service if needed. Would using the 50 amp dog-bone potentially save me from tripping a breaker inside the trailer?
Is there any other consequences I should be aware of?
We don't trip the breaker often but it would be nice to avoid it whenever possible
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Old 06-26-2020, 09:17 AM   #34
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The short answer is no it won't. You will only have access to 30a either way.

It may however keep you from getting wet if it's raining. When a breaker trips, I always say to myself, Why?

Usually in a rv it's because you are drawing over 30a.
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Old 06-26-2020, 10:10 AM   #35
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the short answer is no it won't. You will only have access to 30a either way.

It may however keep you from getting wet if it's raining. When a breaker trips, i always say to myself, why?

Usually in a rv it's because you are drawing over 30a.
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Old 06-26-2020, 02:36 PM   #36
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Sorry, the proper term is power control system. Yes I turned off the propane to run what I could on 30 amp shore power and see what worked on 15/20/30 mode on power control system. I know what the difference is, just alot of people including my walk through guy called it an EMS, so that's why I called it what I did. And for protection,not being sarcastic, I have the Hughes Watchdog EPO device.
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Old 06-26-2020, 03:12 PM   #37
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Sorry, the proper term is power control system. Yes I turned off the propane to run what I could on 30 amp shore power and see what worked on 15/20/30 mode on power control system. I know what the difference is, just alot of people including my walk through guy called it an EMS, so that's why I called it what I did. And for protection,not being sarcastic, I have the Hughes Watchdog EPO device.
It's not you. The manufacturers cause this problem. Some of them actually say Electric Management System right on the control board.

Hughes is the new kid on the block. Good stuff. You will see people say that their Autotformer is an EMS. It is not.
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Old 06-26-2020, 03:26 PM   #38
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You beat me to the punch on autoformers, lol.
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Old 06-26-2020, 03:40 PM   #39
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I bought the 50a Hughes Watchdog and am getting ready to leave on a 3 week trip. I hope to give it some real world checking on this trip. I already set up the app in my yard but I don't have 50a, only 30a. It worked well with the dog bone.

They cover all the bases, calling it a EPO and a surge protector.

https://hughesautoformers.com/power-...ge-protectors/
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Old 06-26-2020, 04:20 PM   #40
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I used mine last week, and loved the fact it takes less than 10 seconds to test the circuit. Just wished the metal eyelet was bigger because my security cable will not fit through.
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