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Old 11-14-2014, 06:08 PM   #1
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Unhappy Winterize fail!

OK, just took my first try at winterizing... what a mess!

Drained everything with all faucets open and removed the filter from the canister and replaced the canister (then re-opened the filter bypass valves).

Attached the fill hose to the fresh water fill inlet, and set the valves to 2 & 4 (Winterize) and put the other end of the short winterize hose in the antifreeze jug. Took a while for the pump to prime, but then it sucked the jug dry.

Problem is, my wife was watching the open kitchen sink faucet, and nothing ever came out (hot or cold). She also tried the bathroom sink, and the inside and outside shower... no pink stuff anywhere. So I set up the second gallon jug... same result, sucked it dry, but we have NO IDEA where 2 gallons of the pink stuff went.

No visible leaks, and there is no water heater by-pass. I called Jayco and they said that when the valves are set to 2 & 4, that it automatically by-passes the water heater.

So, 2 gallons of the pink stuff went SOMEWHERE, but obviously not where it should have, and it's supposed to be 19 degrees here tonight.

Crap!
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:12 PM   #2
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My bet is the water heater....
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:05 PM   #3
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X2 water heater if you don't have the thankless kind. I think you can recapture the pink by draining hot water heater and starting over
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:40 PM   #4
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X3 on the water heater if it's not a tankless, your closest rv store should have a hot water heater bypass kit if you rv doesn't already have one on it. Pretty simple to install, that will save you headaches later.

Don't nesseceraly trust the girls at Jayco, as they told me that I needed to completely take out the water inlet screen before running the rv antifreeze through it.........but after about three hours of trying to figure out why the pump wasn't sucking up the antifreeze, bedroom torn apart to get to the pump, testing the pump and finding that it was working just fine, I found that there is a pressure valve nipple inside the water inlet. I put the inlet screen back in but the opposite direction and PRESTO.....it sucked the bottles dry.
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:42 PM   #5
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Yep^^^ what they said. When you try again be sure to find the hot water heater bypass valve first.
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:52 PM   #6
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This from the Redhawk Manual :

Water heater bypass (If So Equipped)
Your motor home may be equipped with a water heater bypass. This three-valve system is located at either the water heater, or on the system panel depending on your model. The water heater bypass valves must be in the NORMAL position (open the hot and cold valves, close the mixer or middle valve) to use the water heater (and when sanitizing). If winterizing the motor home plumbing system, position the three valves to the BYPASS position (close the hot and cold valves, open the mixer - or middle - valve).
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:12 PM   #7
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Thanks all, but I'm at a complete loss. I've set the valves as Jayco says, and I can't find any way to bypass the water heater. There are no valves in the heater compartment, and I can't get behind it to see if there are any there. I don't know where else to turn. I sure don't want to put six gallons of pink stuff in the heater.


Does anyone out there have a 2014 or 2015 Redhawk, that might have run into this issue?


Thanks!!
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:20 PM   #8
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I have a 2014 Redhawk 29XK (KX or XK; can't remember right now). The bypass valves for my water heater are directly BEHIND the water heater. In the kitchen, I pull it the middle drawer near the right hand side of the sink and the three valves are visible. Almost have to lay on the floor to get to them.
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Old 11-15-2014, 12:49 AM   #9
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how about doing it the way the rv dealers do it, open everything up, drain everything, get a 5.00 air adapter from an rv dealer connect to fresh water inlet, hook air compressor chock to adapter run at low psi for 20 minute or until you feel air blowing out of faucets , and other fixtures , this should do it
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Old 11-15-2014, 12:53 AM   #10
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just a quick note leave all drains in open position, this includes black and gray, this helps with an expansion and also helps dry lines completely out
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