Dometic/Attwood water heater

[JimD]

Originally Posted by 81greer

Gas is getting to the stove and it works great. It just seems it is not getting gas to the water heater valve. Assuming the gas side is 12 volt, I'm only getting 8.75 volts to the valve. Is this normal or could it possibly be in the switch on the panel? Just trying to think through it.

Thanks

The gas valve would be getting its voltage from the control board. Check the input voltage to that board. If it is good there see if you can check the voltage on the board that goes out to the gas valve. If good there, the wiring diagram I looked at showed it going to an eco switch before it gets to the valve. That could be bad too.

I have attached the manual for the water heater.

[JFlightRisk]

Check for continuity on the thermal fuse, the E.C.O., and the thermostat sensors. There's also a tiny 2 amp fuse on the control board, but I see you replaced the board, so unless it blew for some reason, that isn't an issue. I do believe you should have at least a full 12 volts to both gas valves.

[Djoannides]

Originally Posted by 81greer

Dometic GC6AA-10E water works great on electric side but won't ignite on the gas side.
Tried new gas valve. Still don't light,
Tried new Circuit board. Still don't light.
I can see the spark.
What am I missing?

Thanks.

Can you light the gas range in your coach. I’ve turned off the main gas valve and forgot to turn it back on. My issue was the refrigerator so I alway light the gas range to be sure. Hopefully yours is that easy

[BeachRock2020]

If after all your diagnosis, you decide to get a new circuit board. I recommend getting a new circuit board from dinosaur electronics. You can get them on Amazon. I went with the third-party circuit board after replacing three OEM boards that each failed after an unreasonably short time.

[81greer]

The stove works and lights great.
I’m wondering if the full 12 volts is getting to the valve to open the valve

[RedHorse1]

Originally Posted by 81greer

The stove works and lights great.
I’m wondering if the full 12 volts is getting to the valve to open the valve

You should hear the gas flow when the igniter sparks. The crimped gas hose suggested is possible. Since the stove lights we know the basic LP system is working but you haven’t verified gas flow during ignition.
A pinched gas line (leading to the fridge), defective valve, control board or power to the board and valve are culprits.
Another thought, if you hear gas flowing when the igniter sparks there could be blockage in the burn tube. Dirt daubers (mud daubers) love to nest in the burner tube.
You’ve changed the valve and board, vetify the gas flow!

[81greer]

Yes. The gas has worked on it as of last year.

[81greer]

I'm not hearing the gas come thru. Burner is clean, its sparking.
Should I be reading 12 volts at the gas valve? 'm only reading 8.75 at the valve.

[JFlightRisk]

JimD's post above shows that you should have a MINIMUM voltage of 10.5 to the valve.