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Old 02-10-2016, 08:55 PM   #31
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Prosser
Posts: 22
Looking forward to seeing it .Sounds like the very same set up that I have an issue with.

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Old 02-15-2016, 02:07 PM   #32
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Southeast TN
Posts: 259
My trailer is still a bit nose high, but I can live with it I think. It pulls fine and I have 8" of bed rail clearance at the front, about 7.5" at the tailgate on level ground. If I picked the trailer up another 1", it would be close to perfect, but Id have to use blocks or weld a subframe in which I dont want to do either for 1". A 1" block wouldnt be too bad, but I'd have to special order longer u-bolts to fit the 3" axle tube. I have 8" u-bolts now thats maxed out on threads, so 9" or longer is what it would take. Also, much higher and the steps and outdoor kitchen would be almost too high....

So the reason i posted again was for the picture.

Mods done to level
swap to 225-75-16 michelin xps tires and 16" wheels from the factory 15s and blowmax tires. I didn't do this for height, but I did get about half an inch of lift.

Built custom leaf springs for trailer similar to what people use to lift the front end on leaf spring vehicles. I was going to try this first before the subframe or blocks and I like the result. Ride is a very little bit stiffer, but I expected it to be...I actually figured it would be worse than it is. This got me almost 3" of lift.

Took 2 of the 3 spacer blocks from the rear leafs of the truck. If I pulled the 3rd the truck would be nose high when hooked up and loaded (or close) and Id have to buy shorter leaf spring bolts and u-bolts. With the 2 shims removed the truck still has forward rake to it with the trailer hooked up. This lowered the tailgate height about 1".

2013 Ram 3500 Laramie Cummins
2014 Eagle HT 29.5 BHDS
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