So...wait a moment.
You are talking about powering the two fridges when boondocking. If you are on shore power, this is not a concern. A proper inverter will have a built-in "transfer" switch that feeds the residential fridge with shore power when available, and feeds the fridge with battery power when not.
So, if your inverter does NOT have a transfer switch, consider replacing it with one that does.
With that out of the way, as others have suggested, know your loads. Exactly what is on the inverter vs what is exclusively lit up with shore power? To know for sure, pull the plug on shore power and test all your outlets to see what is live and what's not. If the inverter is powering the "TV" outlet, it may be powering other outlets.
I presume that any outlet in the storage bay where your dorm fridge might live is NOT on the inverter...but test to be sure. You might get lucky.
To power your "dorm" fridge, you MIGHT (not necessarily can) simply daisy chain 14/3 from that "always live" outlet to a new outlet in the storage bay. The wiring and outlets are essentially the same as those in your home, so you MIGHT get away with this if the other loads on the TV circuit don't amount to much...AND assuming your main residential fridge is not on that one-and-only circuit...or that its power needs are modest. If you install an outlet essentially "outside," be sure to use a GFCI. It will be at the tail end of the circuit, so the only confusion from multiple GFCIs will be one you can quickly diagnose...is the rest of the circuit live? If so, the GFCI at the fridge is the culprit. If not, the "main" GFCI controlling the whole circuit has tripped. But you should have the added protection for that outdoor fridge.
How to do it right?:
1) Upgrade your inverter to a larger capacity inverter with built in transfer switch.
2) Wire the output of the inverter to at least two independent circuits...one for the residential fridge, and one for the other loads...TV and dorm fridge can comfortably live on the same circuit.
3) Upgrade your battery bank...you don't say what you have, but at minimum you should have 4 x 6 volt golf cart batteries in series/parallel to deliver about 230 USABLE amp hours (AH) between charges.
4) And since you're boondocking, add solar...lots of solar, on the order of 800 watts on the roof.
5) Otherwise, you should just run a generator and recognize that a smaller battery bank could be overtaxed by your 120 volt loads.
Or you could install a proper 2 or 3 way RV fridge that runs on propane and leave the rest alone. You can Tee into propane lines in many locations around the rig, and this fridge will barely sip propane.
This is an illustration, not a recommendation. There are MANY dorm-sized 2 and 3 way RV fridges available.
https://www.amazon.com/Smad-Camperva...dDbGljaz10cnVl
If you're not boondocking, this whole discussion is moot.
Linear Mode
