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Old 05-10-2016, 12:50 PM   #21
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We ended up adding a sub frame to our 29.5 BHDS. It's leveled now and a bit taller as well. We bought an 8-inch step platform to help us get in and out of the rig. Attached are our sub frame pics.


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What did you do to fix it?
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:38 PM   #22
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I'm not sure I want to go that far just yet. Where do you go to get something like this done and what is the ball park cost if you don't mind me asking.
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:27 PM   #23
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What did you do to fix it?
Lowered my 5th wheel plate in the bed of the truck.

I remove the 4 bolts that hold the plate assembly to the support tabernacle which is bolted to the bed. I can move the plate assembly up or down 1 in at a time, in this case I moved it down a total of 3 in from its SHIPPED height, this leveled out the FW...

Take about 10 min to adjust the height...
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:57 PM   #24
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I've got a similarly sized 5ver in the BHXB. It is a bit longer wheelbase, and heavier on the pin, which seems to make a decent amount of difference. We have a 2014 Ram 4x4 SB CC, stock height. Andersen hitch on a B&W turnover ball. I ordered the 16" tires, had the brackets set in the bottom hole from the factory. Mor Ryde pin box is near max in the up, hitch is in the lowest setting. We are not loaded in this pic, which also helped a bit. I have 8" clearance between the bed rail and overhang. I'm about 2" nose high. If it were much more, I would be seeking a solution. Be careful of some of the advice you get. If you are high enough in the front to visibly squat the back set of tires, you WILL see accelerated wear, improper loading of the rear axle, and most likely have a poor handling rig. Seek the advice of someone not looking to get you off the lot and move on to the next. Good luck, and happy camping.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:59 PM   #25
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A better pic:
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:59 AM   #26
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This forum has been the best help. I'm going to go with the Andersen Ultimate 3221 modified by Andersen and move my leaf springs to the bottom hole. This should bring the front down 2 in and the rear up 2 in, I hope. This should put me within 1 in of being level.

Can I go to an over sized tire without changing the wheels?

Thanks everyone for the help. I'll report back how it turns out and maybe even a pic if I can figure out how.
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Old 05-11-2016, 09:22 AM   #27
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Can I go to an over sized tire without changing the wheels?

Thanks everyone for the help. I'll report back how it turns out and maybe even a pic if I can figure out how.
There are tires out there that are a bit taller. Just watch the load capacity. if I were you I'd run the tires you have for now seeing as you'll be so close anyway and then when it's time to replace tires I'd upgrade to 16s for the greater carrying capacity for a bit more of a buffer. On the other hand, being new maybe your dealer would make you a good deal on a trade for some 16s now. Long shot but it would be worth asking.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:01 AM   #28
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16 inch wheels and tires with an E rated capacity would be a definite upgrade, and help another inch and a half or so.
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Old 05-12-2016, 01:40 PM   #29
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I called Jayco and asked them about trimming the fiberglass around the pinbox to allow it to go up to the last hole. They said it would not void the warranty unless the warranty claim was a result of my trimming. So if I trim the fiberglass and a 3 ft crack goes across the nose it will not be under warranty. Long story short, I'm going to be doing some trimming this weekend.
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Old 05-14-2016, 06:39 PM   #30
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DO NOT TRIM THE NOSE CONE TO GET THE PINBOX ON THE LAST HOLE! AND YES, ALL CAPS MEANS I'M YELLING.

There is a metal plate on top of the front row of holes that keeps the pinbox from going all the way up the the last holes. I guess I know something Jayco doesn't even know.

At least I cut a pretty little 2 in section out. But still, shouldn't the dealer or Jayco themselves know this?
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