Scissor Chock Issues

[K Holbrook]

Hey everyone, I recently bought a pair of wheel chock scissor stabilizers and put them on my Northpoint 5th wheel. I didn’t apply excessive force, just normal pressure, but I heard a thump come from on of the wheels. The next time camping, our wheel bearings on the same side as the thump sound failed and created a very ominous situation. Has anyone else had a situation like this before? Once we start camping again, those scissor stabilizers are going into a trash bin! I’ll be using the good old fashioned rubber wheel chocks from now on. I’d love to hear your comments. Thanks

[mrmom]

Chocks didn't cause the issue, they just alerted you to it!

[Lowmiler]

I've used them for years without issue on my Northpoint (was surprised how much they helped on a 5th wheel with electric stabilizers after using them previously on my travel trailer).

Sounds like you uncovered a lurking wheel bearing issue as mrmom noted.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by mrmom

Chocks didn't cause the issue, they just alerted you to it!

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

I've used them for years without issue on my Northpoint (was surprised how much they helped on a 5th wheel with electric stabilizers after using them previously on my travel trailer).

Sounds like you uncovered a lurking wheel bearing issue as mrmom noted.

X2, If you really do not want them. Leave them next to the dumpster, someone will feel like they won the Loto. I have been using them for years. Absolutely love them.

If you had never serviced the bearings, I suspect there was insufficient grease during the manufacturing process, which is known to happen.

[Yooper906]

Originally Posted by K Holbrook

I’d love to hear your comments. Thanks

My opinion, there was a wheel bearing problem already there. I fail to see how the scissors chocks would cause any damage.

[Stan&Sharon]

X-Chocks are for stabilizing your rig and not to chock the wheels.

The first vendor I visited, etrailer.com explained it this way:
Note: The purpose of the Super Grip Chock is to limit front-to-back motion on parked tandem-axle trailers. Do not use as a brake or a wheel wedge.

You chock your wheels ($7.99 ea at harbor freight) before disconnecting your tow truck and then install X-Chocks before you extend your slides. Always chock tires before you X-Chock them and when packing up, remove the X-Chocks before you remove the wheel chocks.

To do otherwise is dangerous and may damage your tires, or worse.

[Mopar_Earl]

Those chocks wouldn't even remotely generate enough force to harm a wheel bearing! Wasn't caused by the chocks. Defective parts, improperly installed or lack of maintenance is why it failed.


Earl

[Lowmiler]

Originally Posted by Stan&Sharon

X-Chocks are for stabilizing your rig and not to chock the wheels.

The first vendor I visited, etrailer.com explained it this way:
Note: The purpose of the Super Grip Chock is to limit front-to-back motion on parked tandem-axle trailers. Do not use as a brake or a wheel wedge.

You chock your wheels ($7.99 ea at harbor freight) before disconnecting your tow truck and then install X-Chocks before you extend your slides. Always chock tires before you X-Chock them and when packing up, remove the X-Chocks before you remove the wheel chocks.

To do otherwise is dangerous and may damage your tires, or worse.

Good points, though I'm not sure the OP didn't follow proper procedure here.

I have seen people install their x-chocks and then decouple the trailer. I cringe every time I imagine the stress their suspension is enduring as the trailer is rising dramatically and the tires are being held in place...

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

Good points, though I'm not sure the OP didn't follow proper procedure here.

I have seen people install their x-chocks and then decouple the trailer. I cringe every time I imagine the stress their suspension is enduring as the trailer is rising dramatically and the tires are being held in place...

The tires shouldn't move. The trailer pivots on the suspension equalizers and wheel bearings. You don't want your wheels to move or the trailer will move.



Earl

[K Holbrook]

Thanks for your feedback. Just for clarification purposes. The trailer is a 2020. Bearings were packed at the factory when built. I repacked them spring if 21 and again this spring. The trailer has a total of 750 miles in it. It has Dexter E-Z lube axles so the repacking is a breeze. Since it has so few miles on it, I’m scratching my head trying to figure out the issue. The trailer was made when the factory was closed down from COVID, and they used a skeleton crew. So, there were people doing jobs that they didn’t normally do. I suspect that has something to do with it. I guess I’ll bite the bullet and replace all of them. At least I’ll have piece of mind.

[mavrick0]

Originally Posted by K Holbrook

Thanks for your feedback. Just for clarification purposes. The trailer is a 2020. Bearings were packed at the factory when built. I repacked them spring if 21 and again this spring. The trailer has a total of 750 miles in it. It has Dexter E-Z lube axles so the repacking is a breeze. Since it has so few miles on it, I’m scratching my head trying to figure out the issue. The trailer was made when the factory was closed down from COVID, and they used a skeleton crew. So, there were people doing jobs that they didn’t normally do. I suspect that has something to do with it. I guess I’ll bite the bullet and replace all of them. At least I’ll have piece of mind.

The E-Z lube is not a true repacking. It is a Band-Aid method of adding a little bit of grease, and only if done a correctly, between proper disassembly and inspecting and a true repacking of the bearings. I did this to my trailer as soon as I bought it and found 2 of the hubs were not set correctly and had way too much play. This and being over tight will cause premature bearing wear and failure.

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by mavrick0

The E-Z lube is not a true repacking. It is a Band-Aid method of adding a little bit of grease, and only if done a correctly, between proper disassembly and inspecting and a true repacking of the bearings. I did this to my trailer as soon as I bought it and found 2 of the hubs were not set correctly and had way too much play. This and being over tight will cause premature bearing wear and failure.

I agree and add never ever use EZ lube. Old school it. It's the only proper way to do it. Can't clean and inspect the bearings and races, find leaking seals or brake issues if you do EZ lube.


Earl

[K Holbrook]

Thanks for the info.

[Jagiven]

Suspect bad oem parts. When I hand repacked my bearing the first time, I found a defective retaining clip.