Trailer brake test

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Screwby

I agree completely, but all I usually see are guys running around with trailers smoking the tires when hard braking or panic braking. I think the idea is lost in the translation a lot of times. People adjust the trailer tires until they lock up as they press the pedal then back it off a few clicks, then think it’s good. I did the same thing when I was taught to adjust the job site trailers by old “salty” men. No mention of progressive braking and how controllers put more braking power to the trailer the harder you push the pedal. A good controller isn’t all or nothing. If you adjust it to lock under normal braking then back off a bit, they will still lock and skid when the brakes are jammed down in an emergency.

I wish it was explained a bit more when teaching people how to adjust their brakes was my issue.

The gain you're adjusting is limiting the voltage. So if you lock at 7.5 and don't at 7, no mater how much you brake the tow vehicle, the gain won't go over 7 and lock. If you lock, the road surface is different from when you set it. Or the trailer weight changed. Or you set the gain with cold brakes. The controller will ramp from 0 to the gain setting in proportion to the tow vehicle. Provided it's not a time base controller. Those should be banned.

My worthless Lippert electric drum brakes didn't brake at highway speeds. You could throw the manual lever over at 70 and fell nothing. Gain max at 10, heavy electric. Converted over to disc, down to 6.5 gain heavy electric over hydro. 7 will lock all 4 wheels in a panic braking. So I run at 6.5. I like 7 as it leads more but it locks the wheels and leaves black marks and smoke clouds during panic braking. I've had 4 different events at setting 7 and had major lockage. So at 6.5 I'm good. But slippery roads would change that.

Your gain needs to be adjusted as your weight and road surface changes. You wouldn't run the same gain on snow as dry pavement.

Earl

[haweinberger]

We had the same issue. Very little stopping power. The answer is

" DISC ". Little expensive at a little over $3,000.00 installed.

Afterwards you will never question this issue again and the money is the best

you have ever spent. Just do it. Ever large RV should be required to have.

The difference is a grin on the face as you pull up to a stop.

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by haweinberger

We had the same issue. Very little stopping power. The answer is

" DISC ". Little expensive at a little over $3,000.00 installed.

Afterwards you will never question this issue again and the money is the best

you have ever spent. Just do it. Ever large RV should be required to have.

The difference is a grin on the face as you pull up to a stop.

Wow, 3k! That was a lot of labor charged, over a grand. Kits should be under 2k if you shop around. Believe I paid 1200 for my kits. Few hundred more to customize it to my liking. Installed myself, so no labor costs.


Earl

[Screwby]

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

The gain you're adjusting is limiting the voltage. So if you lock at 7.5 and don't at 7, no mater how much you brake the tow vehicle, the gain won't go over 7 and lock. If you lock, the road surface is different from when you set it. Or the trailer weight changed. Or you set the gain with cold brakes. The controller will ramp from 0 to the gain setting in proportion to the tow vehicle. Provided it's not a time base controller. Those should be banned.

My worthless Lippert electric drum brakes didn't brake at highway speeds. You could throw the manual lever over at 70 and fell nothing. Gain max at 10, heavy electric. Converted over to disc, down to 6.5 gain heavy electric over hydro. 7 will lock all 4 wheels in a panic braking. So I run at 6.5. I like 7 as it leads more but it locks the wheels and leaves black marks and smoke clouds during panic braking. I've had 4 different events at setting 7 and had major lockage. So at 6.5 I'm good. But slippery roads would change that.

Your gain needs to be adjusted as your weight and road surface changes. You wouldn't run the same gain on snow as dry pavement.

Earl

Good point! That’s probably the root of the issue most times. Trailer brake controllers don’t get adjusted to compensate for road conditions or change in weight. Most people set it and forget it. I do like that my truck has a memory setting that saves the settings for my different trailers. Makes it nice when I switch back and forth.