Trailer brake test

[northwoodman]

I have a 2019 Eagle 321RSTS and just bought a 2015 High Country diesel. I tried to adjust the integrated brake controller, but I can't get the brakes to lock up. I've checked the voltage to the brake at 10 gain and the brakes are getting about 13 volts and I can hear the magnets engage. I had the controller checked out at the dealership. I have self adjusting brakes, but I adjusted them again until they locked and backed off. With the tire jacked up it locks when I energized the controller, but rolling in neutral on my gravel driveway they will not lock. Am I over analyzing or do I have a problem? We are leaving for the Rockies in three weeks. Your advice is appreciated.

[Marcm157]

My integrated brake controller on my F250 will not lock the brakes either. I adjust my gain to where I am comfortable with the stopping ability by feel. I test my brakes by the manual application of the controller before heading out on each trip and from a steady roll my trailer brakes with stop the forward movement of both the truck and trailer. I think the newer controllers are engineered to not lock the trailer brakes by design.

[Grumpy]

Do the brakes apply at all? Isn't the brake controller proportional? It takes into consideration the vehicle speed since it's all part of the electronics.

Edit:

Marcm 157 won...

[Lake Huron]

I got a 15 Silverado 3500 Diesel that pulls my 17 Northpoint 375 and HAD the same results as you. I could come make a complete stop and apply the trailer brakes full on with the brake controller, let my foot of the brake pedal and my rig would roll about a foot or two before it barely stopped with the trailer brakes.
My previous trailer was a 40' Forest River Sierra and it wasn't any better with my 15 OR my 2011 Silverado I had.
I fixed my issue by changing over to disc brakes on the Northpoint. What a difference that makes!
When I took all mine apart to do the conversion I found some gouges in one set of shoes and the others were a little "wet" from the grease seals leaking. I've had this happen before, even on previous trailers. I've cleaned them all up with brake cleaner and it seemed to help a little bit and I've also manually adjusted the brakes to the poi t where they just barely start to drag and it helps but it doesn't last for long.
Since you got three weeks, I'd do a quick tear down to see if your seals are leaking and clean and manually adjust them. Make sure you're in tow/haul mode and the exhaust brake is on.
Maybe when you get back you'll want to join the disc brake club. There's no membership fee and the rewards are great! Lol!

[TxLoser]

I was just dealing with this yesterday. I’ve got a ‘19 3500 SRW, and a ‘19 321RSTS. I keep my controller set at 6.5 or 7. I just got a new axle which came with brakes and all, so I was looking at it more closely as I burnish the new brakes. The new ones are noticeably weak just like when I first purchased the trailer.

I’ve never been able to lock them up completely with the controller on a paved surface at speed. If I’m just rolling at idle-5mph, I can stop the whole setup at that setting so I know they work. Haven’t tried it on gravel. My old travel trailer I could lock them up. Maybe it’s the weight. I don’t know.

[Mopar_Earl]

Electric drum brakes usually won't lock on a heavy trailer, especially Lippert China brakes. Conversion to disk brakes is highly recommend. Was the only way I could get any brakes.


Earl

[2edgesword]

I had the opposite problem. The trailer brakes would lock up and yank the truck backwards as you got under about 5 mph. I had to back off the assist. I test the trailer brakes at the start of each trip. In my mind you want the trailer brakes assisting the stop short of locking up.

[northwoodman]

Thanks for the info. My controller is proportional and I do get a response.

Craig

[Springhook]

Same results on my Northpoint. Long, long story shortened, I discovered grease on my linings and ended up replacing the backing plate assemblies and seals myself. Still won't lock up, but stops better. Will eventually join the disc brake club.

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Springhook

Same results on my Northpoint. Long, long story shortened, I discovered grease on my linings and ended up replacing the backing plate assemblies and seals myself. Still won't lock up, but stops better. Will eventually join the disc brake club.

We will welcome you to the disc brake club like it's 1999. Lol


Earl

[Springhook]

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

We will welcome you to the disc brake club like it's 1999. Lol


Earl

Disc, NOT DISCO!

[Colorado]

Originally Posted by northwoodman

I have a 2019 Eagle 321RSTS and just bought a 2015 High Country diesel. I tried to adjust the integrated brake controller, but I can't get the brakes to lock up. I've checked the voltage to the brake at 10 gain and the brakes are getting about 13 volts and I can hear the magnets engage. I had the controller checked out at the dealership. I have self adjusting brakes, but I adjusted them again until they locked and backed off. With the tire jacked up it locks when I energized the controller, but rolling in neutral on my gravel driveway they will not lock. Am I over analyzing or do I have a problem? We are leaving for the Rockies in three weeks. Your advice is appreciated.

Since your controller is proportional it senses your speed or lack of it in the driveway. You’ll need to take the trailer out on the road. I would attempt using just the manual actuator and feel for the truck to slow, then use your vehicle to aggressively stop the trailer. The proportional brake controller senses your speed and the sudden change of braking and responds, well, Proportional to that sudden change.

If you have a go pro camera or a mount for your phone you could mount that up so could see what the trailer tires are actually doing or have someone dive along side and watch.

Note. Check the brake wires as they enter and exit the axles themselves. I had a WILDCAT that I thought needed new brakes. In reality the wires had gotten corroded from non-waterproof connectors and corrosion, along with being rubbed where they entered and exited the axle.

[Bugs]

Had the same issue with our 2017 321 RSTS with maybe 15K tow miles. Could not lock up brakes from a stand still. Finally pulled the tires and then the brake drums. Some wonderful installer went nuts with the grease gun when greasing the hubs. Centrifugal force sent grease flying everywhere over the miles driven. The magnets, brake shoes and drums were covered and the front axle/front shoes were worn. Probably could have taken a can of brake clean and the pressure washer to each one, but we chose to replace backing plates with all new brake shoes and hardware instead from Dexter. Now it stops and can lock them up from a standstill. I found that on our Ford F350 that it takes a few seconds from the time I squeeze the brake controller to get the brakes to lock at stand still. I travel with 6.5 gain on the digital readout.

[northwoodman]

Thanks for the info. I had the same problem grease and more grease. I did my best to clean, but I think you're right. I'm changing out all four brake assemblies next week. I don't need that concern rounding down a 7% grade in the Rockies.

[Bugs]

I think the 4 brake assemblies and 4 seals were $504. They were Dexter units, nev-er-just or something like that! We have Lippert axles and the Dexter assemblies were exactly the same. Repacked bearings and replaced seals.

[robert9999]

When I bought my new TT the rear would lock out & smoke the tires, this is how I tested it. I did a roll at 15mph, threw it in neutral and squeezed the controller until it stopped dead. I set it at 10 & the brakes locked using the foot brakes this time from the same 15 mph neutral roll. I backed it down to 6 & that is the sweet spot for me. Now I have a 2014 F 150 & my TT weighed in at 5,400 ibs empty when I tested. Truck weighed about the same.

[73stroker]

I had the same problem, until I installed disc brakes on our Pinnacle. Night and day difference, well worth the money!

[Screwby]

Neither one of my campers will lock the tires no matter how high I set the controller. I just adjust the controller until I can feel the camper tugging me backwards when I apply the brake instead of feeling like it’s pushing me. I guess I never understood the old school “unjust till they lock and then back off a click” theory. I’ve been pulling trailers of all sorts my whole life and each trailer is different. I see guys pulling trailers, including semis that lock up and smoke tires under hard braking. Once a tire looses traction it’s no longer providing good grip. Same as a car, that’s why ABS was invented, a skidding tire loses its ability to provide good stopping power.
I know this method has been around since the dawn of time but why not just adjust and fine tune till it feels right. Why does everyone want their tires to break loose?

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Screwby

Neither one of my campers will lock the tires no matter how high I set the controller. I just adjust the controller until I can feel the camper tugging me backwards when I apply the brake instead of feeling like it’s pushing me. I guess I never understood the old school “unjust till they lock and then back off a click” theory. I’ve been pulling trailers of all sorts my whole life and each trailer is different. I see guys pulling trailers, including semis that lock up and smoke tires under hard braking. Once a tire looses traction it’s no longer providing good grip. Same as a car, that’s why ABS was invented, a skidding tire loses its ability to provide good stopping power.
I know this method has been around since the dawn of time but why not just adjust and fine tune till it feels right. Why does everyone want their tires to break loose?

You don't adjust them to lock. The point is you adjust till they lock (if they can) then adjust it down till they brake hard without locking up. They shouldn't lock up if adjusted correctly. You want all the braking you can get without locking. Like a fridge, you want close to freezing without freezing. Nothing has changed, so the procedure is unchanged. Drum or disc doesn't change it either. Back in the day before all the low grade parts started showing up, if your brakes didn't lock, you had an issue. Modern times, most electric drums brakes won't lock. They are using China everything with low grade lining and magnets running on a low grade China drum.


Earl

[Screwby]

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

You don't adjust them to lock. The point is you adjust till they lock (if they can) then adjust it down till they brake hard without locking up. They shouldn't lock up if adjusted correctly. You want all the braking you can get without locking. Like a fridge, you want close to freezing without freezing. Nothing has changed, so the procedure is unchanged. Drum or disc doesn't change it either. Back in the day before all the low grade parts started showing up, if your brakes didn't lock, you had an issue. Modern times, most electric drums brakes won't lock. They are using China everything with low grade lining and magnets running on a low grade China drum.


Earl

I agree completely, but all I usually see are guys running around with trailers smoking the tires when hard braking or panic braking. I think the idea is lost in the translation a lot of times. People adjust the trailer tires until they lock up as they press the pedal then back it off a few clicks, then think it’s good. I did the same thing when I was taught to adjust the job site trailers by old “salty” men. No mention of progressive braking and how controllers put more braking power to the trailer the harder you push the pedal. A good controller isn’t all or nothing. If you adjust it to lock under normal braking then back off a bit, they will still lock and skid when the brakes are jammed down in an emergency.

I wish it was explained a bit more when teaching people how to adjust their brakes was my issue.