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Old 05-15-2012, 07:18 AM   #1
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Water Heater Anode Rod Replacement

We have been fulltiming in our Jayco Pinnacle since Nov 2011.
How ofter should we inspect / replace the water heater Anode Rod since we are using the water heater full time?
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:36 AM   #2
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I assume you have the Suburban heater Rob like I do. I checked mine after the first year and it was hardly eroded at all. Some yes, but way more than 75% remaining. Your water will change this, some good and some not so good.
If you have the Atwood heater, it doesn't have or use one. If you have a plastic plug where the anode is, you have the Atwood. Do not put an anode in the Atwood. It's tank in aluminum and the rod will harm it.
I carry a spare anode with me and will check it again late this summer.
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:44 AM   #3
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Thanks Ed,

Yes it is the Surburban 12 Gal Water Heater.

I was wondering how often it should be checked?
Since we move around some, guess I will check it every 6 months or so.
I will get a spare Anode Rod so I have one on hand when needed.

By the way Ed, based on your experence, other than the typical fuses, batteries and bulbs, any other spares parts we should keep on hand?
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:57 AM   #4
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I have the Atwood water heater which doesn't have the rod, but they do give a great suggestion which I would think would be beneficial for the Suburban heaters as well. Periodically flush the water heater to remove any junk that may have accumulated at the bottom of the tank, it will likely help the anode rod last a little longer too.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:17 AM   #5
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Get one of these to help:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...k-rinser/49070
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Old 05-15-2012, 01:44 PM   #6
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Nothing else comes to mind Rob. Just plenty of food in fridge.
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Old 05-15-2012, 03:52 PM   #7
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I replace mine once a year at beginning of season. I always flush after each outing, that removes a lot of sediment. I find that the well water sites (western Neb hunting) cause more erosion of the rod than around the Southeast. Keep the spare and you are always prepared.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quahog View Post
Thanks, had not seen that water heater rinser.

Looks like it will make flushing the tank much eaiser.

Worth a try as it is only $5.50
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Old 05-16-2012, 02:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_Fla View Post
Thanks, had not seen that water heater rinser.

Looks like it will make flushing the tank much eaiser.

Worth a try as it is only $5.50
my anode had a pet**** on it for draining the tank. Unfortunately the sediment in the bottom of the tank plugged it solid. When I removed the whole thing (Anode) the anode broke off and would not come out of the tank. I had to take a punch and drive it into the tank, so I could drain it. I then flushed the tank and used a solution of 10 gals of white vinegar and water. That little tool really came in handy to get into the tank and spray the sides and top good to remove all of the sediment and other stuff. I put in a new rod and now drain and clean the tank every 6 months. My unit was 5 years old at the time and the tank had probably never been drained or flushed.

After posting I see the words not allowed added stars at the end of pet. I had to laugh as it is not a swear word but a legitimate word. the definition is:
petkock - regulator consisting of a small kock or faucet or valve for letting out air or releasing compression or draining liquid I will substitute the stars and call it KOCK. LoL!
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:36 AM   #10
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I had a CW anode rod for the Atwood, made by Camco. It's made out of magnesium, and Camco says it's specifically for Atwoods because they are aluminum. I pulled it out and it has been "eaten" away from corrosion, so I figured it's doing it's job. But everyone says don't use an anode in Atwoods - what gives?
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