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10-06-2022, 07:47 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7
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No Coach Power after battery swap
2020 Entegra Accolade 37K
Swapped out 4 6volt batteries for 4 100 watt lithium batteries and tried the main battery switch by entry door and no power. Inverter powers up and microwave and refrigerator are running. I’m guessing I tripped a breaker or blew a fuse? I’m guessing there could be something under the bed near the converter/charger?
Anywhere else I can check for a breaker or something similar? Thank you in advance for any help.
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10-06-2022, 08:10 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Greenville
Posts: 42
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Mine usually does this when the bottom circuit breaker on the forward facing fuse panel trips under the bed. Bottom left breaker inside that panel (2022 Accolade 37L)
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10-06-2022, 08:43 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7
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I’ll check that breaker. Thank You
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10-07-2022, 11:59 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,099
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On a side note, did you make sure that you converter charger is compatible with Lithium for its charging? Did you also swap out the BIM for a LiBIM so that you wont burn up the chassis alternator?
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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10-07-2022, 02:15 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustynuts
On a side note, did you make sure that you converter charger is compatible with Lithium for its charging? Did you also swap out the BIM for a LiBIM so that you wont burn up the chassis alternator?
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I have on order a new converter/charger since the current one does not have a li switch. I wasn’t aware of having to also change out the BIM, will have to order that also. Just a question of where is the main power switch solenoid location.
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10-07-2022, 02:55 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,099
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On a 2020 it should still be mounted on the wall of the battery compartment. Here is a link to the LiBIM with a good description of how it works.
https://battlebornbatteries.com/prod...ation-manager/
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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10-07-2022, 05:48 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7
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I have changed these fuses and still no 12 volt power. No power to either side of this solenoid either. Time for a professional I guess.
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10-07-2022, 05:49 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7
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Thank you for your info on the LiBIM also on order.
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10-07-2022, 09:44 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,099
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Did you wire the new 12v batteries in parallel? They wire differ t than you 6 volts do which is series/parallel. Also Jayco usually uses a black wire from the batteries to the latching relay, did you by chance wire this black wire to ground? Sometimes the wire end is marked with red tape and sometimes it’s not.
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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10-08-2022, 10:51 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustynuts
Did you wire the new 12v batteries in parallel? They wire differ t than you 6 volts do which is series/parallel. Also Jayco usually uses a black wire from the batteries to the latching relay, did you by chance wire this black wire to ground? Sometimes the wire end is marked with red tape and sometimes it’s not.
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I did wire batteries in parallel. I did place 2 black cables (small gauge) to the battery ground. I tried to mimic the wiring from the 6 volt series/parallel setup and these 2 black small gauge cables were attached to the ground along with 2 2/0 cables. There were no similar red small gauge cables going to the positive side. I found one of your previous posts that shows a hidden carpeted area beside the battery cabinet and I’ll be searching that out today looking for tripped breakers.
Thank You for all your help. Randy H
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10-08-2022, 11:26 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,099
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Sounds like you have the wire to the solenoid going to a ground and not a positive and that would take care of your problem. Those wires may have been connected to a ground lug BUT it may have been a ground on a 6 volt battery wired in series to provide 12v. If you have a multimeter set it to continuity test a check the cable on the solenoid and test the other two 2 gauge cables as I believe you have them connected wrong. There should only be one negative ground to the batteries. Another VERY important thing is all the cables between the lithium wired in parallel need to be the exact same length in order for the batteries to charge balanced. Even if they need to all be longer they have to be the same length. I would also suggest the cables be upgraded to 4/0.
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10-09-2022, 10:51 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustynuts
Sounds like you have the wire to the solenoid going to a ground and not a positive and that would take care of your problem. Those wires may have been connected to a ground lug BUT it may have been a ground on a 6 volt battery wired in series to provide 12v. If you have a multimeter set it to continuity test a check the cable on the solenoid and test the other two 2 gauge cables as I believe you have them connected wrong. There should only be one negative ground to the batteries. Another VERY important thing is all the cables between the lithium wired in parallel need to be the exact same length in order for the batteries to charge balanced. Even if they need to all be longer they have to be the same length. I would also suggest the cables be upgraded to 4/0.
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You were correct in that I wired the solenoid wrong. I also installed the new breaker/fuse panel and installed 4/0 cables all the same length. Man 4/0 cable is expensive! Still waiting on the LiBIM.
I can’t thank you enough for your help in this matter. How you are able to diagnosis someone else’s problems in a mumbled text is amazing. Randy H
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10-09-2022, 11:30 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,099
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Glad you got it figured out, I don’t like that they use a black cable for a positive connection but I really don’t have a say in it
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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10-10-2022, 07:31 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Valley
Posts: 272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustynuts
Glad you got it figured out, I don’t like that they use a black cable for a positive connection but I really don’t have a say in it
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The little piece of red tape in the ends doesn't always stay in place which adds to the confusion.
Red cable doesn't cost more or is in short supply, so there's no reason for them not to use it.
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2022 37K
2018 Bighorn mistake gone
2017 SoCal teardrop still have
2019 F-150
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10-10-2022, 11:30 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,099
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I added about 3” of red heat shrink to mine…..after putting new marine grade lugs on the cables as the factory crimps were loose.
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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