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06-10-2017, 09:47 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Meridian,ms
Posts: 256
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2011 Jayco Eagle slide out actuator failure
I have a 2011 JAYCO EAGLE 330RTLS. we just got back Florida for a week vacation. My son let the slide out on my living room and it is now stuck in the open . when you try to retract the slide using the motor all you can hear is the rod turning and banging inside of the actuator the mechanism does not work.. something internally inside actuator has come loose and it will not catch the slide to bring it back in so looks like I got to replace the actuator. Well any body that might have had this happen to them please give me your best advice before I get started so I'll know maybe what, I'm fixing to get into I have been under the camper too and I know where the motor is located I got it disconnected don't think it's going to be a major deal just got to give a heads up apart but still kind of aggravating though and I got to replace it anyways any suggestions would be thank you
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06-11-2017, 03:53 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Meridian,ms
Posts: 256
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I guess from the lack of replies no one has had this happen to them.??????
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06-11-2017, 04:46 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Wichita
Posts: 33
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On my 09 Eagle the actuator would do this occasionally when retracted and would not extend. The gearbox beside the motor on the side opposite the slide has a 5/8 nut pinned to the actuator shaft. Turn it with a wrench until the slide 'pops' and the motor did the rest.
The 30 amp inline fuse at the battery was corroded internally. Replacing it seems to have fixed the problem.
You may have a different type of actuator, in that case ignore my advice.
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06-11-2017, 06:10 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Meridian,ms
Posts: 256
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Thanks I tried to manually retract slide with a ratchet and it turned very easily but nothing happens.
__________________
2010 F250 6.4 L
2011 Jayco 330 RTLS
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06-11-2017, 06:21 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Wichita
Posts: 33
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On mine the actuator is not tightly bolted to the slide. The actuator shaft will move about 3 inches before it picks up the load. There look to be about 16 or so threads to the inch, so you may turn it a while before anything happens.
For reference, here is the actuator I have.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/40-Sl...045-119129.htm
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06-11-2017, 07:32 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Meridian,ms
Posts: 256
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That's just like mine. Maybe I need to get back under there and crank some more before I order a new one.
__________________
2010 F250 6.4 L
2011 Jayco 330 RTLS
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06-11-2017, 07:43 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Wichita
Posts: 33
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One lead to the motor is for extend and the other is retract. Have someone hit the switch for you and see how much voltage drop you have. You can also check for voltage drop at the switch. For me, fixing an electrical problem is cheaper and easier than getting that actuator out and in. I've read where the switches can go bad and create a lot of resistance.
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06-11-2017, 08:10 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Meridian,ms
Posts: 256
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Makes sense, but why do I hear it turning inside the actuator when I try to retract but nothing happens unless something has come loose.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
__________________
2010 F250 6.4 L
2011 Jayco 330 RTLS
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06-11-2017, 08:32 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 16,109
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Could be a sheared bolt connecting motor & shaft
__________________
 DISNEY LOVERS
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06-11-2017, 08:35 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Wichita
Posts: 33
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That's a tough question. I haven't had mine apart yet, but some things I would look for.... The nut on the slide side of the actuator is locking but could have worked its way off. It should be easy to check. If it is gone, the shaft will pull in but won't bring the slide with it.
The gearbox cover has four machine screws holding it on, you could check to see if the motor gear is engaging with the actuator gear. Some teeth could be missing or the bronze bushing the shafts run through could be worn and allow the gear to be cocked in the gearbox. On mine, both of these can be checked without pulling the actuator. The gearbox and motor can be purchased separately and changed without pulling the actuator.
Eliminating those two potential problems would tell you the shaft is stripped or broken. If the shaft is messed up, you'll need $500 and some time for your knuckles to heal. The actuator is cheaper on Amazon, but the customer service people at the RV Upgrade place went way beyond helpful to get my actuator matched up.
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06-11-2017, 08:59 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Wichita
Posts: 33
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06-12-2017, 05:39 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Meridian,ms
Posts: 256
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I had my local Jayco Dealer send a tech today to verify my problem. He agreed something enternally has broken inside the actuator,so I ordered a new one today and will install it myself. It looks to be a easy change out if you follow the changeout instructions found in the Lippert brochure. There are a couple of criticle measurements that need to be taken before changeout.Thank you for your pictures though was wondering what was inside the gear box. ALSO AS A RECOMMENDATION FOR ANYONE READING THIS, LOOK AND BECOME FAMILURE WITH YOUR MANUAL CRANK IN PROCEDURES. IF NOTHING ELSE THIS WAS A GOOD LEARNING EXPERIENCE. Don't wait until you have a problem like I did.
__________________
2010 F250 6.4 L
2011 Jayco 330 RTLS
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Linear Mode
