Adjusting WDH

[FionaGrant]

Hi All,

I'm finally getting a WDH put on our 2011 F150 Lariat on Friday to Pull our 2017 QBW212. The hitch shop is going to put on the "head", then I'm supposed to go back to the trailer and add the bars, etc.

I think I understand the install, despite being not so mechanically inclined.

But, a couple of issues:

1. The trailer is being kept at a private residence. I don't think I'll be able to have both the trailer and TV level in that location. I believe that is a prerequisite for installing a WDH? Can I do the best I can in that location and then carefully tow it a few kms to a fat spot to adjust?

2. We know both the TT and TV are likely to get heavier over time as we figure out everything we want to carry. Is it difficult to re-adjust the WDH as time goes by?

You should know that I do not have any torque wrenches or other specialized tools so I can only do basic things.

Thanks in advance. These forums have taken so much stress away for this newbie!

[Camper_bob]

What hitch are you installing?

IMO, you'll probably be okay towing a short distance at low speed to find a flat spot for the setup.

[FionaGrant]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

What hitch are you installing?

IMO, you'll probably be okay towing a short distance at low speed to find a flat spot for the setup.

Thanks Bob, that's what I figured. I don't know the exact model of hitch, but I'll ask and watch some install videos

Grant

[Route 66 Traveler]

You can tow it without the WDH installed. You will need some large deep sockets and a torque wrench. Before doing the setup add as much water as you will normally carry on a trip, plus if you plan on carrying anything heavy in the back of the truck, add that as well. You can add some water to your grey or black tanks to simulate the weight of food, clothing and other items that you will be carrying.

The basic premise of the WDH is to keep the truck as level as it was before hooking up the trailer. You can do a quick check by placing a piece of painters tape on the fender above the center of the front tire. Measure from the ground to somewhere around the center of the tape and mark a reference line, say at 35, 38, 40 inches...and draw a line at the point. Then hookup the trailer, attach the WDH bars, retract the front jack and recheck your measurement. If the hitch is setup properly you should see the same measurement, or pretty close to it that you made with the trailer disconnected. Any big variation means the hitch is not setup properly. The truck and trailer need to be on level ground, with the trailer level before setup. Then the ball on the hitch should be level with the coupler, or slightly above the coupler. You need the trailer to properly make that adjustment when installing the hitch head on the truck.

You might be better off to seek out a good hitch shop and have them install and adjust it for you.

I have never had to readjust my hitch since the initial setup. I'll do a quick measurement check as stated above if I load more or less than usual.

[Camper_bob]

Solid advice getting the rig as close to normal loadout as possible. I actually added ballast to mine to try to get close.

Actually, the premise of a WDH is to return lost weight to the front axle so that the tow vehicle's control characteristics (primarily steering) don't change dramatically.

Instead of using a piece of tape, simply measure the fender to the ground across the center of the wheel. Measure the front wheel well with no trailer (H1), then attach the trailer (but NOT weight distribution bars) and measure again (H2); you goal is for that measurement to be halfway between H1 and H2 with WDH bars engaged (according to your owner's manual). But that's really just a guide. To get it exactly right, you should weigh the axles, but measuring the fenders should get you pretty close.

You also want to measure the rear fender before and after. You DO NOT want the rear end to be HIGHER when WDH is active than when inactive, as this can cause a very dangerous situation. You're actually looking for a little "squat" in the rear.

Depending on the hitch, you may not need DEEP sockets, but you will surely need 1/2" drive sockets, a long-handled ratchet or breaker bar, and likely wrenches to match. You may be able to rent a torque wrench from your favorite retail auto parts store.

I absolutely agree that if you feel at all uncomfortable about the install, it might be worth your while to take it somewhere and have it done. But you should still know what all the process entails so you can make sure it's done right.

All of this will be detailed in the instructions for the hitch, and your Ford owner's manual. So find out which hitch you're getting and download and review the instructions. If you follow them step-by-step, you should be good to go!

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

snip.......Actually, the premise of a WDH is to return lost weight to the front axle so that the tow vehicle's control characteristics (primarily steering) don't change dramatically.....

X2

..... and after a proper WDH adjustment it's very common for a TV's rear fender to experience 1" - 2" squat.

Bob

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

X2

..... and after a proper WDH adjustment it's very common for a TV's rear fender to experience 1" - 2" squat.

Bob

Yes, thank you both for clarifying. Too often I see people post information about the time they spent trying to get the rear back to stock height.