Bearing maintenance

NHstuckinGA · 02-04-2017, 07:41 AM

Is there an upgrade or add-on to the wheel bearings on a WhiteHawk 33 RSKS?
As I see them, the bearings must be removed to be re-packed.

**JFlightRisk** · 02-04-2017, 08:00 AM

Your trailer should be equipped with Dexter E-Z Lube axles already. They are probably hidden under the wheel center caps.

**norty1** · 02-04-2017, 08:19 AM

Do some research on bearing maintenance on here before you consider pumping grease into them.

repacs0103 · 02-04-2017, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norty1

Do some research on bearing maintenance on here before you consider pumping grease into them.

Absolutely correct.

On our 9 trailers at work with Dexters I have specifically removed the EZ-lube caps and replaced with standard dust covers. Pumping grease in does not re-pack the bearings and only serves to grease your brake shoes and drums.

NHstuckinGA · 02-04-2017, 08:51 AM

I used to do all my own repair/maintenance but had decided to let Camping World do it going forward. Now I am not so sure about the bearings.
I will contact Dexter and see what they recommend. Pumping clean grease every 2k-2.5k makes much more engineering sense that re-packing all the time.

oldmanAZ · 02-04-2017, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

Your trailer should be equipped with Dexter E-Z Lube axles already. They are probably hidden under the wheel center caps.

Quote:

Originally Posted by norty1

Do some research on bearing maintenance on here before you consider pumping grease into them.

What they said...

Lots of folks lube their bearings using the Dexter E-Z Lube and it works well for them, BUT there are many that would rather disassemble and lube the bearings manually.

The Dexter E-Z Lube can be used incorrectly. For example, just putting a grease gun on the Zerk fitting and filling the hub with grease will blow your seals.

Like norty1 said, check the info on this site and, I'd add, YouTube videos before you use the E-Z Lube method.

Bookemdanno · 02-04-2017, 09:46 AM

I don't trust the E-Z Lube, for the reasons many have said above. I'm afraid of blowing out the seal. I just pull the hub and repack the bearings by hand every 2 years.

Jaakkandy · 02-04-2017, 10:32 AM

How often should your wheel bearings be greased? I have about 7500 miles on my new 330RSTS and not sure when I should grease them. The trailer is only 8 months old.

**norty1** · 02-04-2017, 10:40 AM

I pay someone to inspect the brakes and repack the bearings every other year.

My dealer does it in January just before we go away. Very little sitting on the lot and very reasonable. This is their slow season where we are so they are wanting something to keep the techs busy.

ttavasc · 02-04-2017, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaakkandy

How often should your wheel bearings be greased? I have about 7500 miles on my new 330RSTS and not sure when I should grease them. The trailer is only 8 months old.

The maintenance schedule in the Dexter manual states every 12 months or 12,000 miles. I do mine yearly when I uncover it and get it ready for the season. Over the season I use an IR gun to monitor hub temps at rest and fuel stops for any anomalies that may indicate a problem.

NVGun40 · 02-04-2017, 01:44 PM

I echo what has been said regarding just simply greasing axles. However, I also support periodic adding of grease. It is not rocket science, but over time and usage the wheel bearing grease will thin out a bit and as this happens comes the need to add grease to your axles. Whether you choose to just squirt grease in through the fitting or take the whole hub apart and repack the bearings is up to you. However, understanding the makeup of the hub is important. There is seal at the back/inside and in front/outside. The outside one is usually the bearing cap or dexter ezlube cap while the inside one was an o-ring. If you subscribe to the method of just squirting in new grease yearly, remember that internal area where the bearings are is a limited space. Sooner or later excess MUST come out. Usually it is around the inside seal. Therefore, anytime you pump new grease in, you should get in underneath and check the seal to make sure no grease is leaking out.
At some point, you will have to take the whole hub assembly apart and clean it and repack it all.
Over time and usage, things wear out. So regardless if you are the type who just squirts grease in or who takes the assembly apart and repacks, it is important to regularly inspect all parts and clean or replace as necessary.
I am the type of person who pumps in some new grease every year, and inspects the inner seals. On my RV, this year will be year I take it apart and clean and repack. On my flat bed tilt trailer (snow machine trailer) I take the hubs apart every fourth year and clean and repack the bearings (though it see's fewer over all miles than the RV, it does see much more abuse and faster revolutions with its much smaller wheels). This flat bed was brand new in 1988, the inner seals have been replace twice, but the bearing are still the original and I have never had to leave it somewhere because of a mechanical failure. Maintenance, is a common and continuous evolution.

TCNashville · 02-04-2017, 06:14 PM

Just curious on what everyone does when re-installing the castle nut after repacking the bearings. I'm getting ready to do the repack/inner seal replace and was told to tighten down the castle nut to seat the bearings and back it off 1/2 turn. Basically correct?

**norty1** · 02-04-2017, 06:27 PM

That is the way I was taught to do it.

Bookemdanno · 02-04-2017, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norty1

That is the way I was taught to do it.

+1

ttavasc · 02-04-2017, 06:41 PM

That's also the way I was taught. Dexter says to tighten to 50 ft-lbs then back off and tighten by finger to line up the cotter pin. There should be a little play when you wiggle the top and bottom of the tire. If not then back off to the next position on the castellated cap and check for play again.

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oldmanAZ · 02-04-2017, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttavasc

That's also the way I was taught. Dexter says to tighten to 50 ft-lbs then back off and tighten by finger to line up the cotter pin. There should be a little play when you wiggle the top and bottom of the tire. If not then back off to the next position on the castellated cap and check for play again.

That's what I was taught:
Tighten the nut with a wrench, back it off, then tighten the nut finger tight, back it off to line up cotter pin.

Then grasp the tire and check for play...
If there is a little play, then insert the cotter pin.
If no play, then back off enough to insert the cotter pin.

RedHorse1 · 02-04-2017, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bookemdanno

+1

+2
In addition I was taught to spin the hub as I was tightening. With the wheel/tire mounted to easy to give it a spin as you give it the first tightening. After that, as said above.

repacs0103 · 02-04-2017, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedHorse1

+2
In addition I was taught to spin the hub as I was tightening. With the wheel/tire mounted to easy to give it a spin as you give it the first tightening. After that, as said above.

This is what my mechanic Dad and Grandfather taught me as well.

Mark Geer · 02-04-2017, 10:37 PM

Dexter axle with easy lube was made for boat trailers to push out the salt water. I was told to never greese with easy lube it will blow out seals and get on brakes.

**norty1** · 02-05-2017, 07:09 AM

A product called Bearing Buddies was marketed for boat trailers. The EZ lube is marketed for travel trailers and such.

There are proper ways to do the EZ lube but many don't follow the procedure and mess up the rv brakes.

I would advise anyone who is not familiar with them to do some research before starting with the grease gun.

I pay a rv dealership $120 every other year and IMO it's money well spent. My knees are very thankful!

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