Can you use A/C unit while plugged into your house?

[kdduke]

I read about it, on an Rv site, was curious about it, if really worked. Thanks for your feedback on it! Cheers!

[Farris7]

You can plug into a household current- but be careful! Don’t run “Anything” else. Watch your plug on the house side and make sure it t doesn’t get hot. Best thing to do is wire up a 30 or 50 amp RV plug, but in a pinch you can use the smaller plugs. Need a good 30 amp cord and the shortest 30 to 15 amp as possible.

[Forelyndogs]

We put in a 30 amp circuit and box next to the rig and have it plugged in all the time and run the a/c when it's hot. We sometimes use the rig as a guest room so we need to keep it clean and ready to use. (BTW, makes a great guest room, but I gotta have a dump cart because it isn't practical to run a sewer line to the parking area.)

[Dancingqueen]

I Occasionally park at son’s and had 50amp installed several years ago. Works great, no problems., so good advice from Dave

[OldSoldier_5]

Originally Posted by Jaycobro

I store my camper at my house and have it connected to our home electrical. Do you know if I can run my AC unit while plugged into my house?

I ran my 35Foot RV on a 15amp cord for a while and eventually burned the adapter. I now run a SINGLE AC unit on a 30 AMP RV receptacle without difficulty. I will, eventually, install 50 amp service but not for a while.

15 Amps, a normal household service outlet, is inadequate for RV WITH AC in the long run. Be very careful.

earned the hard way.

[wags999]

Originally Posted by Jaycobro

Super helpful everyone! So other than tripping the breaker - is there any risk it will damage the AC ?

If you have other issues in your service a low voltage situation could cause issues with your AC. On another note. 100 ft #12 or larger cord would not cause enough voltage drop to be an issue.

[SlawDawg69]

I keep mine plugged into a 30amp 24/7/365 in my shed while stored and keep the fridge running all the time. I added a 50amp plug at the house to be able to run both AC units, fridge, vacuum, etc. while packing/unpacking for a trip. I did this due to it always tripping GFCI when plugged into garage outlet....

[Picinisco]

I added a 30 Amp recepticle beside my house power box. I like to do work on any trailer that I buy and here in AZ, I need to run the AC when the temps rise. Has been a great addition.

[RogerR]

I didn't see you post your model and the type and brand AC, those would be helpful.


You can get a plug in the wall voltage tester for inside your camper to tell you what the voltage is. Handy for camping as some places have low voltage that can harm your electrical stuff. Maybe $10 bucks on amazon, I have one and use it whenever I plug into a campground.

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by pward

Wondering why you need 30a just to park an rv at home? Other than running a small electric heater in winter, keeping the house battery charged and keeping up with parasitic draw, what else would need that much amperage if you weren't living in it?

You don't. 15 or 20 will work just fine. You have to learn "Energy Management"

[TnHiker]

You can be safe and not have any issues if you use a 10awg extension cord no more than 50' and have a 20 amp rated receptacle that is the only thing on the circuit. You can get by for limited amounts of time on a 15 amp dedicated circuit. I have used a 20 amp dedicated circuit on a 25' 10awg extension cord for a few years and can run my AC all I want and have no issues.

[nynethead]

I installed a 30amp outlet outside to plug my trailer in when I use the AC. All other times I plug into a 20 amp for fridge and heat

[kdduke]

Originally Posted by OldSoldier_5

I ran my 35Foot RV on a 15amp cord for a while and eventually burned the adapter. I now run a SINGLE AC unit on a 30 AMP RV receptacle without difficulty. I will, eventually, install 50 amp service but not for a while.

15 Amps, a normal household service outlet, is inadequate for RV WITH AC in the long run. Be very careful.

earned the hard way.

For home use go 30 to play it safe at minimum. Short story: overloads can cause fires and short circuits. N+MY brother nearly lost his house when electrical shorted out in plug and started up the wall. Lucky they were at home at time and Fire rescue were next door. Short story- those heavy electrical demand items draw power over the years- expand and contract- wires loosened up! Investigator confirmed my suspicions today- $9000-$10,000 repair now. Glad I spent $1000 and upgraded my RV panel. Play it safe!

[Jaimster]

Depends on load (amperage draw), extension cord length and gauge. I ran my 30amp rig on a 20amp circuit for several months with a/c with no problems but once the summer kicked in here is South Texas the a/c pulled to much amperage and I ended up tripping the breaker and ruining my extension cord ( fried the ends). 20 amp circuit is enough to run everything but the a/c, and micro. I eventually had a 50 amp pedestal installed at home and now I can run everything if needed. I make a monthly payment for the RV so my thought is “Use it” if your paying for it, so I use it and it is nice to have the extra fridge and sleeping space for guests or just to get the kids out of the house even if it just the front yard. Just my 2cents worth.

[mikehoots]

Originally Posted by Jaycobro

I store my camper at my house and have it connected to our home electrical. Do you know if I can run my AC unit while plugged into my house?

It is wattage you need to consider a 13500btu unit needs 2750 when it kicks in 1250 while running 15000btu 3000 watts when it kicks in and 1500 while running. Amps x Volts = Wattage. So with normal length and heavy cord enough heavy enough guage wire I believe a 30 amp rv cord is 10 guage. When that air kicks in on 13500btu unit it needs 22 amps when it is running it needs 10.4 amps if it does have wattage when it kicks you are your air conditioner by making it strain. The right power source at your house is a good investment. I have burnt one up once. It made we realize I need not to mess with low voltage.

[Frisbee]

You should have an electrical install a 30 amp RV outlet at your house. Its easy and not expensive. If you plug into a regular home outlet, it is probably 15 amp and should not be used to run your A/C. It will likely run for a very short period of time, then overheat and hopefully trip the circuit breaker before anything bad happens.

[Bluesky46]

Depends on the size of your AC unit and your electrical supply. For most RV and travel trailer AC units you really should plug into 30A power. And if you use an extension cord, get the heaviest one you can find and not any longer than necessary.

[Kenelz]

Its simple to add a 30a receptical, do a little research, and if not comfortable, hire an electrician. Look up the NEA codes, my run was 70', and required 8ga wire. There are online calculators where you punch in you amps, voltage, length of run, to give you the size.

The length really plays in for longer runs.

[tateofpa]

I have a dongle that allows me to use my house dryer outlet for 30 amp service, because I have family get together and it give me extra beds in the summer, but would not be usable in the summer without 30 amp service.

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by tateofpa

I have a dongle that allows me to use my house dryer outlet for 30 amp service, because I have family get together and it give me extra beds in the summer, but would not be usable in the summer without 30 amp service.

DO NOT plug your RV into that outlet. It is 240 volts with no neutral! Your RV is 120 volt 30 amp. It needs a separate neutral and a separate ground!

In the RV world it is called a dog bone not a Dongle.

Note: If it is a 4 wire 240 30 amp, and the dog bone was special made to pick up only 1 leg of 120 volts, then that is safe to use.