Connecting TT to home

[Fourkids&abeagle]

I had this problem until I realized all my garage outlets were part of the same GFCi circuit. So I ran an extension cord into my laundry room and plugged I to a non-GFCI 15a circuit. No problems now, and you shouldn’t have to mess with turning things on off in the trailer.

[Spaceguy85]

Make sure that the house outlet you are using is NOT a GFCI. These have a lower current trip than a conventional 15amp outlet. When we had the popup, we used the outlet near the garage door opener. It is not GFCI. Whenever we plugged the PUP into a GFCI it would trip the button on the GFCI outlet.

[Vicr]

A GFCI recepticle is not an overcurrent current (amperes) limiting device. A circuit breaker is a current limiting device. Post #22 is incorrect. A GFCI senses an imbalance of current between hot and the neutral as low as 5ma and will open "pop" when it senses this imbalance. A circuit breaker trips when the current being drawn exceeds the ampere rating of the circuit.
When you plug an RV into a GFCI circuit and it trips then some where in the RV there is an imbalance of electrical flow in the wiring or in an appliance that is wire to or plugged into an electrical circuit. If the RV is drawing 1 amp and the neutral (return path of an AC circuit) has current of .75 amps then the GFCI will trip/open.
The easiest thing to do is just plug into a non-GFCI circuit and call it a day. Or hire an electrician and have them install an RV outlet at your house.

[Bowana]

Originally Posted by Bri01605

Hi folks
Brand new TT. Got home and attempted to connect our 30amp TT to our house. We used a 30 to 15 dog bone attached to a surge protector. Each time we plugged in, we reset the GFCI in the house outlet. Nothing we tried worked.
Thoughts friends?
Brian

We also had that same problem with a previous RV. With the newer units ( last 10 years or so) they have a lot of hidden electricity being used that each time you connect to a GFCI, it senses an overload and throws the breaker. There are no problems with any circuits or surge protectors, just that the CFCI thinks there is too much power being asked for. Plug into a non- GFCI 20 amp and you won’t have any problem running whatever a 20 amp circuit will handle.

Brian

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by JimD

Have you tried plugging into a non-GFI outlet? Is the same GFI breaker protecting all of the outlets you tried? Is this GFI a breaker that is installed in your breaker panel or is it a push button on a GFI outlet.

I installed GFI breakers in my breaker box is the only reason I ask. If it is a GFI outlet only with push button, I have seen some of those that have a hair trigger and replacing it solved my problem.

A GFI will trip if is senses current flow between hot and ground rather that hot and neutral. Something you can try is to shut off all breakers in your trailer and then plug in. Hopefully it won't pop with everything disconnected. Then flip one breaker on at a time and see if it pops for a particular trailer breaker. If so, this is where you should look for a leakage to ground.

GFI protects any outlet within 6' of a water supply and in garage and storage areas. Some gfi's don't play nice in series. Either plug into a non GFI circuit or turn of the GFI circuit in your RV.

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by Bri01605

Thanks. We tried every variation we could on multiple outlets. Power seems good, attach 30a converter. As soon as we attached the RV, the outlet pops.

All the outlets in your garage are on a gfi. All the outlets on the outside are on a gfi circuit. Wash machine probably is not. Try that one.

[Bandit12]

I plug my trailer in at an outside outlet with a 15A-30A dogbone adapter. My Progressive 30A EMS is plugged into the dogbone and the trailer in plugged into the EMS. Since my EMS displays amps being drawn thru it, I decided to try something for a few minutes today after we got home from our weekend trip. I plugged everything is as usual, and checked the EMS amp draw. With nothing on except the inverter charging the batteries, it was drawing 2 amps. When I switched the fridge over to electric, is showed a 4 amp draw. Then I turned on the AC to high cool and turned the temp control as cold as it would go. I expected to see 20+ amp draw. to my surprise, it was drawing 14 amps. I have no intention on running my AC on a 20 amp circuit long term, but its nice to know I can for at least a short time, say while loading the trailer in 90 degree heat. As a side note, my outdoor thermometer said is was about 110 Saturday afternoon. We fired up our Predator 3500 and ran the AC until its was about 80 inside the trailer. I was fairly impressed as our trailer is a hybrid, we had one bunk end open, with the windows in that bunk partially unzipped and the curtain to close off the bunk pulled. I also had PUGS installed on the open bunk which I believe helped.

[Vicr]

Originally Posted by Bowana

We also had that same problem with a previous RV. With the newer units ( last 10 years or so) they have a lot of hidden electricity being used that each time you connect to a GFCI, it senses an overload and throws the breaker. There are no problems with any circuits or surge protectors, just that the CFCI thinks there is too much power being asked for. Plug into a non- GFCI 20 amp and you won’t have any problem running whatever a 20 amp circuit will handle.

Brian

Go back and read post #23 so you can understand how a GFCI circuit works.