GFCI or Fuse Breaker Issue

MontanaTraveler · 03-26-2023, 03:11 PM

Hello, I have a 2018 Jay Flight SLX (Rocky Mntn. Edition) M267-BHSW, that is having an issue with the GFCI and connected outlets. Initially the GFCI (bathroom sink) would trip when I plugged into it or a connected outlet - I could reset it, but it would immediatly trip again when plugged into. I replaced the outlet, and the new one displays a green light (indicating everything is operating correctly), but is always tripped, and won't reset - neither it nor any of the connected outlets are working. The fuse (third down -15 amp- on the fuse board) is good, and has been replaced; however, when it is removed from the fuse slot, the red led 'blown fuse' indicator light does not come on - the other fuse lights all come on if their respective fuse is removed. The breaker is not tripped, nor does it trip at any time. I'm thinking that it might be the circuit board that the fuse & breaker are connected to, but don't know for sure, and would like to hear some good opinions before I take it to the dealer and have to pay a ton of money. Thanks for your help!

John

Grumpy · 03-26-2023, 03:15 PM

Fuses have nothing to do with 120v circuits they are all 12 v.

MontanaTraveler · 03-26-2023, 03:17 PM

Good to know.. I thought it might be related since that fuse is assigned to the 'bath'. Any ideas as to why that GFCI and other outlets are not working? Thanks

Vicr · 03-26-2023, 03:25 PM

I'm an electrician and am a little confused here. Fuses are for the DC electrical system and breakers are for the AC electrical system. Simply put fuses have nothing to do with the 120v AC electrical system so I don't know why you are talking about fuses.

As far as troubleshooting your GFCI circuit is the GFCI green indicator light coming on? It shouldn't if it doesn't reset. When you replaced the GFCI did you make sure you have Line and Load wired properly? It doesn't sound like you do if the GFCI won't reset. Troubleshooting electrical gremlins via an internet forum is nearly impossible but you need to start with the basics of making sure you have wired the GFCI correctly. Do you know what to do to check to see how you have wired it?

stinger608 · 03-26-2023, 03:30 PM

First, welcome to the forums MontanaTraveler!!!!!

Grew up in Harlowton and currently down in Cheyenne.

If you know which plugs are connected to the GFCI, I would unplug the RV, disconnect the battery/batteries, and pull each plug out of the wall.
Check to see if there is a problem with the wiring or the plug.

Almost sounds as though there might possibly be a short on the "load" side of the GFCI.

GFCI's have a "line" side and a "load" side. The line is the incoming power to the GFCI and the load is the other plugs that are protected from the GFCI.

MontanaTraveler · 03-26-2023, 03:33 PM

I wasn't aware of the fuses not being associated with the GFCI outlet - as you can tell, I'm obviously not an electrician, nor have I played one on TV, Lol. I appreciate your input. Yes, the green light does come on the GCFI outlet, but is seems to always be tripped - pushing the test or reset buttons do not change anything. I wired it exactly as the original and every thing seems to match up (white wires to silver teminals, black to brass, etc. the ground wire is attached properly).

stinger608 · 03-26-2023, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MontanaTraveler

I wasn't aware of the fuses not being associated with the GFCI outlet - as you can tell, I'm obviously not an electrician, nor have I played one on TV, Lol. I appreciate your input. Yes, the green light does come on the GCFI outlet, but is seems to always be tripped - pushing the test or reset buttons do not change anything. I wired it exactly as the original and every thing seems to match up (white wires to silver teminals, black to brass, etc. the ground wire is attached properly).

But, are your line and load wires correctly installed? That could possibly be the issue.

MontanaTraveler · 03-26-2023, 03:40 PM

I believe so - probably in over my head here. I was hoping it was something simple that I could fix myself, but will probably end up having to take it in. Thanks anyway for the help.

us71na · 03-27-2023, 06:18 AM

You can test for which wires are the line side of the GFCI. Your best bet would be to get an electrician to assist you.

You will need a voltage sensor to do this.

First turn off the power to that circuit using the circuit breaker.

Second, disconnect all the wires on the GFCI, separating the two sets of wires so that you can touch the bare wires without touching any of the others at the same time.

Third, Once you are sure that you can safely touch the wires with the voltage sensor, turn the power back on. Then with the voltage sensor turned on, place the tip of the sensor near each of the black wires. The one that causes the sensor to beep is the line wire. That pair of wires should be connected to the line side of the GFCI.

Fourth. Turn the power off. Recheck the two black wires to insure the power is off. Reconnect the wires to the GFCI insuring that the black wire and white wire pair are connected to the correct side of the GFCI and that the white wires are on the white (silver) screws.

Once the wires are connected put the GFCI back into the box and restore power. The GFCI should reset and you should have power at that outlet and the ones downstream. If it immediately trips, you have a short somewhere in your 120 circuits down stream from that outlet and you should consult a qualified electrician.

**JFlightRisk** · 03-27-2023, 06:26 AM

Your bathroom GFCI also protects the outlet near the kitchen, and any outside outlets. Those would be worth checking out for a wiring problem, but do so with the power disconnected.

ElRey · 04-15-2023, 09:35 PM

Jflightrisk gave a very good problem solving technique for most gf issues, The GFCI monitors all receptacles after it in the circuit which is all of them. Start farthest away and work backwards discounting receptacles.

Vicr · 04-16-2023, 11:10 AM

As a licensed electrician of 39 years I don't recommend using a "voltage sensor" to test for voltage at the GFCI location. To wire a GFCI receptacle you need to have the Hot and Neutral coming from the panel properly identified. The only way to totally insure you have the corresponding neutral with the hot coming from the panel is to use a multimeter to check for 120v between a hot and neutral. A "voltage sensor" is only used by qualified electricians as a safety device to find the "presence of voltage" to properly check for voltage, which is read between hot and neutral qualified electricians always will use a multimeter. Also, to trouble shoot a GFCI circuit ALWAYS start at the GFCI receptacle location first after insuring that no electrical devices are plugged into or connected the load side of the GFCI receptacle. I'm not making suggestions here, I'm am providing the proper way to troubleshoot a GFCI circuit using the correct means as a professional qualified electrician should.

You may also like: